Issue 30 (Spring 2005)
Spring 2005

Special Feature-A year in Tanzania · Essential Uganda · The Fish River Canyon, Namibia · Desert lodges · Kenya: On Safari with Saba Douglas-Hamilton · The Cape Escape · Mad about Madagascar · Search for the Source of the Luangwa · Classic African train journeys · Jonathan Kingdons Big Five.

A year in Tanzania
Tanzania doesn’t sit still for a moment. As the months race by, the country witnesses some remarkable annual events, from the subtle blossoming of African violets in the Usambara Mountains to the legendary and utterly spectacular charge of migrating wildebeest across the Serengeti. If you’re lucky enough to have more than a couple of weeks to explore, its varied charms can get right under your skin, as Jens Finke, author of the Rough Guides to Tanzania and Zanzibar, explains.
African Origins-Africa's New Dawn
In part two of our series exploring the origins of Africa’s wildlife, William Gray explains how the mammals made their move after the demise of the dinosaurs, 65 million years ago.
Essential Africa: Uganda
Uganda is where the East African savannah meets the West African jungle. With boiling rapids, lofty mountains and challenging hiking trails, it’s one of the world’s great adventure destinations – and it’s spectacularly rich in wildlife too. Philip Briggs, author of the Bradt Guide to Uganda, shortlists the country’s most compelling attractions and puts together three two-week itineraries to excite the interest of the first-time visitor, the birdwatcher and the adventure enthusiast.
When the going gets tough...
...the tough get hiking. Mark Stratton pares down his kit and pushes himself to the limit on one of Namibia's most spectacular walks: the Fish River Canyon trail.
Desert lodges - Namibia
Those who appreciate the complex, austere drama of the desert tend to love Namibia. If you feel at home in big open spaces, you may be tempted just to stop in the middle of nowhere, unroll a mattress and gaze up at the stars. But if roughing it isn’t your style, no problem. Namibia has plenty of lodges deep in the wilderness, and some of them are gloriously comfortable, as Emma Gregg reports.
Saba Douglas - Hamilton's Kenya
Best known for driving around the Masai Mara barefoot during the BBC’s Big Cat Week, Saba Douglas-Hamilton was born and raised in Kenya and educated in the UK. When she’s not looking out for photogenic leopards as co-presenter to Jonathan Scott and Simon King, she makes anthropological and wildlife documentaries and is actively involved in conservation projects. The daughter of natural history experts, she loves her home country with a passion. We asked her to reveal a few of her favourite places.
The very best of Cape Town
Some visitors to South Africa are so eager to cram in as much of the country as possible that they head off on safari within a day or two of landing at Cape Town. They’re missing out. This amazing city has more than enough to keep the choosiest of urbanites entertained for a week or more. Emma Gregg selects 15 great reasons to extend your stay, and gives hints on street slang and a useful information directory.

Mad about Madagascar
First-time visitors to Madagascar should prepare to be bowled over. Its forest reserves, baobab-studded plains and faraway beaches are an adventure traveller’s dream. What’s more, as Melanie McGrath discovers, its wildlife is utterly irresistible – if a little weird.
In search of the source
Working alongside the shallow, meandering wildlife paradise that is the Luangwa River, John Coppinger of Tafika Camp in Zambia developed an obsession – to trace the river to its source in the Mafinga Mountains, on the Zambia-Malawi border. Late in 2002, he finally succeeded. Now, together with David Foot of the Nyika Safari Company, he guides small parties of hikers there as part of a greater exploration of the Luangwa region. Mike Unwin joined them.
Ticket to ride
In Africa, no two railway journeys are alike. Here, we look at three. Geoffrey Dean enjoys the comforts of South Africa’s legendary Blue Train; Rhiannon Batten takes a train which, in its 1920s heyday, was the pride of French West Africa; and Kate Eshelby makes the unexpected discovery that in Eritrea, steam trains symbolise progress and pride.

Among the Africans
Award-winning photographers Carol Beckwith and Angela Fisher have devoted three decades of their professional lives to the exploration and documentation of traditional African culture. Both intimate and revealing, their new book, Faces of Africa, celebrates Africa’s overwhelming diversity and pays personal tribute to the many individuals Beckwith and Fisher have encountered in the course of their travels.
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