Issue 31 (Summer 2005)
Summer 2005

Special Feature- Close encounters with big cats · Where to stay in South Africa · Geldof in Africa · Children in Africa · WW1 Battlefields, Kenya · Secret Sudan · Zambia from the Air · Ethiopia - Down the Omo River · Essential Botswana · My Tanzania, by Paul Joynson Hicks.



Cats at close quarters
Two of Africa’s big cat species – cheetahs and lions – are in danger of extinction. Human pressures are largely to blame. Thanks to their remarkable  adaptability, leopards seem to be to hanging on for now, but in recent years they too have been threatened. Could responsible tourism be the key to the big cats’ future?
Predator conservation programmes have a crucial role to play in changing negative attitudes to carnivore behaviour in Africa – and by welcoming tourists, project leaders hope to generate enough revenue to fund vital research and rehabilitation initiatives.
To find out more, we visit three big cat projects: Emma Gregg heads for Namibia’s AfriCat Foundation and Claire Foottit drops in on the researchers at the Laikipia Predator and Kilimanjaro Lion Conservation Projects in Kenya. 
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Where to stay in S.A.
There’s no shortage of great places to stay in South Africa. In fact, there’s an abundance of hotels. An embarassment of lodges. A profusion of game parks. There’s everything under the sun. How on earth are you going to choose? Justin Fox and William Gray know the Rainbow Nation inside out – so we asked them for some personal recommendations.
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Africa through different eyes
Take your children to Africa and you’ll have more than just a holiday, says Richard Trillo, you’ll have a full-on adventure – with warm welcomes, fun and games, and masses of young would-be friends at every turn. 
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Memories of the fallen
Some of East Africa’s First World War trenches still survive – but the memories of those who fought in them are fading fast, as Hamilton Wende discovered while touring Kenya’s historic battlegrounds.
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Hidden jewels of the Nubian desert
Sudan has more pyramids than Egypt – but few tourists have set eyes on them. With its infrastructure in some disarray, this war-torn country has little opportunity to welcome visitors in great numbers, but the peaceful north is ripe for discovery. Go now, says Paul Clammer, and you’ll encounter fascinating customs, incredible hospitality, and, deep in ancient Nubia, the thrill of having a vast archaeological site all to yourself.
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Wings over Zambia
Viewed from the air, Zambia’s rivers, forests, marshes and plains take on a serenely abstract, mottled texture, as Cape Town based photographer David Rogers reveals.
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Essential Africa: Botswana
From the arid fossil desert of the Kalahari to the watery wilderness of the Okavango River’s inland delta, Botswana is one of Africa’s finest safari destinations. Chris McIntyre, author of the Bradt Guide to Botswana, shortlists the country’s most compelling attractions and puts together three two-week itineraries to excite the interest of the first-time visitor, the Africa addict and the true connoisseur.
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Mozambique : simple pleasures, Island style
In Mozambique, the Indian Ocean is so stunning that some would happily pay a small fortune to enjoy its beaches and islands in the sumptuous luxury of a recherché retreat. As for the rest of us, there’s no need to miss out. Welcome to southern Africa’s hippest coastal destination, says Andrew Eames.
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Cruising through the Kruger
Seasoned traveller John Malathronas’ first visit to South Africa was nothing if not educational. In this extract from his book about the experience, Rainbow Diary, we find him sharing a safari minibus with a gung-ho Afrikaans guide, four sporty Germans and an infuriating Canadian vet – and learning that there’s rather more to the Kruger National Park than most people realise.
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Omo: Riding the River
On a recent visit to Ethiopia’s Omo River, rookie rafter Glen Munro jumped right in at the deep end – literally.
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Geldof in Africa
Bob Geldof’s new book – a fascinatingly candid and gritty collection of essays, diary entries and photos from his recent travels in West, Central and East Africa – reveals his tremendous affection for the continent. Melanie McGrath reads between the lines to find out what makes Geldof, the traveller, tick.
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