Issue 48 Autumn 2009
Autumn 2009
The Great Migration - its past, its present... its future • Interview with Jane Goodall • What you need to know about iSimangaliso • Remote Mali • Sudan by air • More to Mauritius • Life in Lamu • Your guide to Rwanda • Accommodation in Etosha • Mozambique by train... and much more!


On the run
Although two million participants are currently taking part in the world’s most famous animal migration, there have been rumblings recently about its wellbeing, particularly in the Masai Mara. Here, Jonathan and Angela Scott explore its past, discuss its present and consider its future. Photography from Anup and Manoj Shah’s African Odyssey.
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Planting a seed
With the 50th anniversary of Jane Goodall’s chimpanzee research project in Tanzania’s Gombe Stream National Park fast approaching, Matt Phillips thought it was a great time to talk to the legendary conservationist about her life, her legacy and her continuing aspirations.
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Flying high
Sudan's ancient archaeological treasures have long been overshadowed by those found within the present-day borders of Egypt. However, a new aerial safari aims to shed some light on Sudan's remarkable relics of the past. Text and photography by Alison Baily
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A hit for six
Think Mauritius, think millionaire. This lovely Indian Ocean island is the favourite retreat of a panoply of international A-listers. You can probably name a few of them, though the hoteliers are, of course, far too discreet to name-drop. The island prides itself on its exclusive hideaways languishing on heavenly beaches. 
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Three sides to every story
Brian Jackman revisits Botswana, though this time he turns his back to the Okavango Delta. Instead his foray includes desert, lagoon and river – three very different environments, which add up to one highly memorable safari.
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Island in the sand
Anthony Ham travels into a world that is on the brink. Once an important staging post on the lucrative trans-Saharan caravan routes, with everything from gold, ivory and Venetian glass passing through, Araouane is about to lose its battle with the Sahara.
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Natural born killers
What is the most dangerous animal in Africa? It’s a question asked by thousands of people each year. Here, Mike Unwin puts each of the popular contenders for the title in the dock and contrasts Big Five yarns with sound natural history, and counters myths with statistics. Is our obsession with killer beasts more a reflection on us than them?
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i is for iSimangaliso
Dale Morris, having previously fallen for the rich variety of the Eastern Capeís Addo Elephant National Park, decides to push his luck by exploring Kwa-Zulu Natalís most diverse area of wilderness, iSimangaliso. After what seems like a shaky start, he hits the jackpot, discovering itís as magnificent beneath the waterís surface as it is above.
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From the ground up
While traditional tented camps continue to have a certain allure, the standard lodges of the past – simple, comfortable bases for safari explorations – are increasingly losing out to chic structures that have become attractions in their own right. One of the leaders shaping the accommodation evolution is designer Neil Rocher. Are his concepts derived from successful commercial models found elsewhere in luxury travel market? No, they are born from the very African soil on which they are built. By Matt Phillips.
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Riding the rails

There are more public transportation options on the continent today than ever before, some of course being more colourful and/or comfortable than others. However, the chances to travel Parts of Africa by train are dwindling each year. Here, Lonely Planet’s Mozambique author Mary Fitzpatrick takes to the rails on one of the few remaining scheduled routes.

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