It was when Barney calmly warned us to watch out for lions that we really knew that this was Africa. "Don't panic" was her message. They were much more likely to steer clear of us but a shot fired in the air from her husband's powerful .375 rifle would soon scare them off if necessary.

We never did see one. But we did chase wildebeest and zebra, watching them disappear in clouds of orange dust. We saw hippos, too, wallowing and snorting in the reeded lakes, and skirted round pools where the piercing eyes of crocodiles peered sinisterly just above water level.

All from the back of a horse, a refreshing - you could say environmentally-friendly - way to explore the Okavango Delta, a blue-green wilderness of reed beds and towering mopane trees. Instead of in a jeep we were out there among the game, the scent of humans so often feared replaced by that of the far more acceptable horse.

Giraffe dip their heads, as though in acknowledgement, herds of zebra come ever closer while normally shy impala and lechwe allow you to bag photos which few could normally hope for.

Competency counts, of course. A startled horse needs a bit of skilful steering, especially when confronting a lion or elephant - the former as fond of dining out on horses as crocodiles are of dogs! I was reminded of this one night when lions came perilously close to our camp. Barney and PJ Besterlink , pioneers of sightseeing from the saddle, were on edge, spending the night on guard with the generator running and the Land Rover lights ablaze. I volunteered to join but quickly fell asleep, my mind tired by the memories and sounds of our six hour daily sorties into the bush.

Since then 'Etosha', a bright, bay American Saddlebred, has fallen victim to lion attack and still bears the scars. This is an indication of what dangers lie in wait for such brave souls as PJ and Barney who, back in 1986, first brought this new dimension to the Delta.

Undaunted by the deaths through rabies of two of the original horses, British born Barney, who has ridden all her life, built up her core of suitable riding horses, which now number around 40. These range from Arabs and Anglo Arabs to the Kalahari and ubiquitous Boerperds. She was urged on by PJ, who until then had not ridden, but saw the potential for horse safaris in a region rich in wildlife. With over 500 species of birds and 18 varieties of antelope alone, it is little wonder the Delta is dubbed "Jewel of the Kalahari."

By 6.30 each morning we were off, avoiding the mid-day heat, listening perhaps to the grunt of a lion lurking somewhere among the tiny islands which dot what is basically a water meadow.

"Don't go too far into the water," warned Barney as I took my willing horse for a drink. "There are crocs about."

One day ended with a river crossing, horses and riders splashing with glee as the cooling waters lapped close to the miltary-style saddles with their oh-so-welcome sheepskin seat savers.

"The Delta is always changing," says PJ. "Hour by hour, year by year - depending on how much water we get. It keeps it interesting for us too, because no trail is ever the same." In our case, in late March and with the flood waters running late, base camp was located on a small "island" some 86 miles from Maun, the main centre for exploring the delta.

This little oasis was our home for the five-day ride, during which we slept in fly tents, listening to the bush chorus - including the eerie cry of a hyaena and the crunching of the undergrowth by a muttering hippo. Times may have changed slightly but not that much. Last September Anthea Chambers, principal of Wildwoods Riding Centre, Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey, took a party of five on "a dream holiday" there. "Wow!" was her reaction to what they found.

"Cantering along with the giraffes was pretty memorable," she said. "At one point I had my reins in my mouth to keep my hands free to take pictures!"

She liked the touch of luxury at Kujwana, the base camp from where they rode, and found the food and the side-trips, such as those in a mokoro (dugout canoe) a real bonus.

"It's ideal for anyone who loves the great outdoors and has a spirit of adventure!" she enthused. Would she go again? "Yes, but this time for ten days...five days was not long enough." I would not argue with that...

John Ruler is a UK-based freelance travel writer who has ridden on safari in many African countries. He is co-author of Great Riding Holidays, with American Arthur Sacks.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Eight: Summer 1999 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)