Every year hundreds of thousands of tourists pour into Africa's National Parks (NPs). They spend good money, have a good time and go home with good pictures and good memories. All very good - or is it?

Satisfying safari aside, what good has really come out of all the money spent? Whilst airlines, lodge owners and curio sellers may have made a handsome profit from services and wares sold, others possibly cry in anguish.

For example, the local Shangaans are prohibited from living, farming or conducting business within the boundaries of Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe's south-eastern lowveld. The tourist dollar is beyond their reach and they derive no direct benefit from the park upon whose ground their forebears dwelt, hunted and freely grazed cattle. That's not so good.

The running costs of Gonarezhou are about four times the income from entrance fees. As a consequence, staff morale, the camps, roads and waterholes are in a poor state. If it wasn't for the intervention of concerned individuals and organisations such as the Wildlife Society of Zimbabwe, the situation would be even worse. So tourist spending doesn't necessarily benefit the flora, fauna and soil within the wildlife parks either. Again, not so good.

The situation in the country's game reserves reflects a frightening lack of concern for conservation on the part of Government and some sectors of the tourist industry. They continue to pay lip service to their social and ecological responsibilities. That the industry will not endure long-term unless the negative impact of its activities is minimised, and the remaining resources carefully preserved, appears a matter of indifference to those directly responsible. So, at present, tourism is not very good for conservation either.

If Government and many tour operators refuse to be accountable, then who will respond to the survival needs of the Shangaan, the steenbok, the sparrow-hawk, the sandstone kopjies, the savannah..... and the cry of the leopard (Malilangwe in the Shangaan dialect)?

A Matter of Trust

One organisation which is attempting to make a difference - and, most significantly, is prepared to "put its money where its mouth is" - is the Malilangwe Conservation Trust. Through its involvement in the tourist industry, it actively pursues two goals: rural development and the conservation of wildlife and its environment. The Trust Deed specifically prohibits the remittance of dividends or profits - any money made from its tourist operations must be channelled into activities related to those two goals.

This altruistic attitude is beyond the grasp of local politicians - and assiduously ignored by most tourism operators. But it is, indeed, very good news for famished families, fauna, flora, fields, fossils and future generations in the area.

The Trust is funded from three sources: donations, investments and its own commercial activities. In fact, the project was made possible by substantial bequests from conservation-conscious external benefactors. These funds enabled: the purchase of the farms that now make up the 105,000 acre (40,000 hectare) estate; the establishment of lodges to accommodate visitors; the restocking of wildlife, and the infrastructure and finance needed to support all this activity. The Trust is now starting to earn the money needed to achieve its goals.

So what does the safari seeker get for his money at Malilangwe? The answer is very good accommodation, abundant wildlife and a satisfying feeling of having participated, and contributed to, something socially and ecologically beneficial. All very good.

Africa's Finest?

Very good accommodation? Firstly there is Nduna Safari Lodge, nestled in a mini-amphitheatre of natural sandstone cliffs and overlooking a picturesque dam. The well-appointed stone and thatch chalets; the audacious suspended walkway linking them to the dining deck and rock-set pool area; the teak furniture and the ethnic decor - all create a unique and tranquil atmosphere. The guides, hospitality and food are excellent. Nduna is comparable to any quality safari lodge in southern Africa.

Then there is Africa's "finest ...most exquisite" lodge, the U$5.5 million Pamushana ("place of sunshine"). Its "Zimbabwe ruins" design is innovative and culturally appropriate, the decor opulent, the accommodation lavish and the cuisine pre-eminent.

Pamushana's guests are cossetted in one of six, very spacious, tastefully appointed, air-conditioned "villas", one of which has been adapted for the physically disadvantaged. Each embraces a picture-windowed lounge, guest convenience and king-sized four-postered boudoir with dressing closet and bathing palace en suite.

The many luxury items include French springwater in the minibar, robes, slippers and an array of aromatherapy lotions and perfume between the 'his and her' handbasins. Outside each villa is an open-air shower, a rim-flow plunge pool and a Swarovski telescope - all on an overhanging teak leisure deck.

The main lodge complex hosts comfortable lounge areas, reflection and heated swimming pools, a sauna, a gym full of electronic machinery and a gift sh... (oops) ... boutique. The cuisine is distinctly 'cordon bleu' and the wine cellar extensive and cosmopolitan. At U$480 per day all inclusive you can wallow in unrivalled luxury Hollywood star style. Its unquestionably much more than very, very good.

So is the wildlife on view.

Taking Stock

Three notable game restocking achievements during 1998 were the importation of twenty eight black rhino, 33 roan antelope and 20 Lichtenstein's hartebeest - at a cost of U$1.3 million. The purchase of the black rhino from KwaZulu-Natal Nature Conservation Services was probably the largest ever private wildlife transaction, and the most successful relocation of the species. The roan from Nyika NP in Malawi (23) and South Africa (10), and the hartebeest from Zambia, will all have a two year quarantine period in internal enclosures before release.

Africa's Greatest Diversity?

The estate is now inhabited by excellent populations of 24 major wildlife species. Of particular interest to visitors, apart from the big five (elephant, buffalo, rhino, lion and leopard), are sable, waterbuck, giraffe, eland, nyala, both hyaenas, the wild dog and half a dozen cheetah. Malilangwe is also probably the only place in Africa where the "small six" (klipspringer, Sharpe's grysbok, grey duiker, steenbok, Livingstone's suni and oribi) occur naturally together.

Added to all that are over 400 species of birds and one of the highest concentrations of raptors in the world. Some pretty butterflies, bugs and bullfrogs too.

The animals, particularly the rhino, are constantly monitored by a large staff. As certain species reach the estate's carrying capacity, excesses will be captured and either sold live or harvested for their meat and hides. These sales will help to recoup some of that U$2.4 million outlay on animal purchases. That's good management strategy.

Grass Roots

You won't come across the vast herds of elephant on view at Hwange NP. Nor will you see the environmental devastation those elephant have caused. Thanks to the original ranch owners, who assiduously protected their properties from fire and over-grazing , the conservancy is covered by a variety of habitats in good condition. Amongst the imposing sandstone hills there are excellent grasslands, bushveld and some magnificent woodlands, particularly of the (Colophospermum m.) mopane, the tree that epitomises the magic of the lowveld. The countryside is certainly a lot more interesting than wall-to-wall savannah plains, even if game may be a little more difficult to find.

On the advice of consultants, Malilangwe's estate managers are removing the accumulation of stifling, moribund material and undesirable exotic plant life that has intruded. This will re-establish the vegetative variety in amounts needed to support the required balance of wildlife.

To make sure that your money is really spent wisely, the Trust invests in research. It pays short-term consultants to produce reports on pressing issues such as security, fire management and game stocking. It employs staff to monitor the status and condition of the veld and the animals on it. It is supporting investigations into the rock art of the original San ("bushmen") inhabitants and deposits left by later settlers in the area. On top of that, funded graduate research students have conducted studies on the rehabilitation of the estate's grasslands, game water points, the effects of fire and aspects of behaviour of lions, frogs, quelea birds and raptors. That's good investment.

Reaching Out

Providing a high quality destination for wildlife tourists may be the raison d'ètre of the Trust, but its outreach programme is its most important function. In essence it aims to stimulate rural development, alleviate poverty, transfer skills and foster sustainable use of natural resources in its neighbouring communities. In 1998 it spent U$500,000 on related projects, often in concert with other like-minded organisations. These included: providing tractors for tillage and transport to move crops to market; staff to assist with soil conservation, land rehabilitation and the improvement of livestock; sponsoring a number of self-help projects and supporting health care and community development schemes.

In the educational arena the Trust made a major donation to the establishment of a college and provided a variety of equipment and facilities for local schools. Both disadvantaged and gifted pupils receive help with uniforms, bursaries and related types of assistance. It is also building a new camp to host children on conservation, Outward Bound leadership and other courses. Skills training in areas such as permaculture, hydroponic food production methods and job-related skills has been given to adults. Aspiring artists are helped and wildlife art fostered through MAT, the Malilangwe Artists Trust. As social responsibility that's all very, very good.

A key concern has been not to create or aggravate the 'donor dependency syndrome' or to repeat the mistakes of well-meaning aid organisations operating in Africa. The programme has recently been reviewed by an independent consultant and follow-up studies will be conducted to ensure that similar shortcomings do not occur at Malilangwe.

In Africa the leopard cries out for socially and ecologically responsible tourism. At Malilangwe its call is a proclamation ofjoy.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Eight: Summer 1999 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)