Nosy Be - Malagasy for "big island" - is the largest in an extensive archipelago of tropical islands off the wild north-west Malagasy coast. Here, "archipelago" is the key, and the thing to do is to explore as many of its delightful satellite isles as possible, using Nosy Be as a base.

But take note: while studying the relevant literature, you'll inevitably encounter descriptions like "the most developed, most touristy and most expensive part of Madagascar" when it comes to Nosy Be. Indeed, because of that, for years I fastidiously avoided Nosy Be like the plague. When I finally set foot there in October 1997 - and that under duress - I was flabbergasted. Nosy Be today is no more touristy, developed or pricey than various other Malagasy holiday centres.

Most visitors reach Nosy Be by means of regular Boeing 737 flights operated by Air Madagascar from Antananarivo, the "vibey" capital some 900km to the south. Staring absent-mindedly out of the plane window as we neared the archipelago, I was mesmerised by what lay below.

Nosy Be itself is huge: covering 321km2, it spans 30km from north to south and 19km from east to west, making it one of the largest islands off the Malagasy mainland. Here and there, its verdant, hilly landscape is punctuated by crater lakes - many of which are considered sacred by the local people. Take in a sunset over some of those lakes from the top of Mont Passot, and you'll have another bit of Malagasy magic to write home about.

Sprinkled some 60km north of Nosy Be are the Mitsio isles, which are particularly alluring to the international scuba diving fraternity. Several yacht charter operations take guests there - or south of Nosy Be, to the equally impressive Radama islands. Lately, one of the Mitsios, Nosy Tsarabanjina, has become the site of Madagascar's most exclusive island lodge, L'hotel de Tsarabanjina.

But the picture-postcard perfect Nosy Tsarabanjina crept into the limelight long before the lodge was built: popular British actress Joanna Lumley (of "Absolutely Fabulous" fame) was purposefully marooned on the then uninhabited isle for the making of a survival-oriented television documentary. Lumley, obviously taken with Madagascar, subsequently returned in August 1999.

Still up in the air, I zoomed in on another, much better-known gem just south of Nosy Be: Nosy Tanikely ("smallisland"). This idyllic, reef-ringed, marine reserve island is visited by almost everyone who makes it out to Nosy Be, for the psychedelic underwater world there provides some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities to be had in Malagasy waters. There, I was able to commune with enormous green turtles just offshore. Tanikely's fine beach also deserves mention, since it must be said that Madagascar is a destination with some beaches, as opposed to a beach destination per se.

But back to Nosy Be. We landed at Fascene airport, where our hostess, petite Francine Polteau of hotel Chez Gerard et Francine, was on hand to meet us. And then she did something I have yet to witness elsewhere in Madagascar (yes, here comes the "touristy" bit): those of us booked into her stylish guest-house were presented with fragrant flower garlands, as so often happens on island holiday hangouts.

But that was where the touristy thing ended. We were heaped into small, old Renault 4 taxis - you know, those quaint models you just want to purchase on the spot and ship off back home. Along the questionable road - which had me feeling much more at ease because so many Malagasy roads are exhilaratingly dreadful - the landscape was a mosaic of cultivated lands and small patches of Sambirano forest. (Sambirano is the original forest type here, a blend of moist deciduous and evergreen rain forests).

The air was thick with the heady scent of ylang-ylang and vanilla, both important local cash crops. It was the first time I had had a close look at a ylang-ylang plantation. The trees are remarkable: gnarled old creations, like those you see in fairytale books, where sometimes they have angry faces and nightmarish branches unexpectedly turn into limbs. Sugar-cane fields feature prominently, the exceedingly potent Malagasy "Turbo 2" rum being distilled at Djamanjary. (Remember always to spit out the first rum swig as a gesture of respect to the Ancestors or Razana, who reign supreme in everyday Malagasy life).

One day, I opted for the single most popular day trip available in Madagascar: a visit to Nosy Tanikely and Nosy Komba. And I learned, among other things, that if you've had a stressful year, one of the best ways in which to soothe frazzled nerves is to sail around those islands on a catamaran. The combination of salty sea breezes, sultry tropical sun and the shimmering ocean creates a magical effect, enough to slow mind and body into virtual torpor. Pure bliss.

Some two hours after leaving Nosy Be, we dropped anchor at Nosy Komba. The second largest of the islands, this place is mostly visited for its population of semi-wild Black lemurs. But environmentally, Komba has been trashed. Where glorious Sambirano forests once thrived, uninspiring secondary growth (or savoka) now stands.

Behind Ampangorinana village, we were led towards the "lemur compound" and handed supplies of finger-bananas (for the lesser primates, not for ourselves). As we reached a grove of tall trees, we could hear the muffled grunts of the lemurs, which were eagerly awaiting their daily food handouts. As if on cue, they descended in a cloud of fur and sticky little fingers, some going as far as to bound onto the shoulders of elated visitors.

Later, at the nearby rustic hotel Les Lemuriens, I happened on an inspiring story: the hoteliers, a young European-Malagasy couple, have not only financed a local school and clinic, but also built a water reservoir for the residents of Ampangorinana. Besides making money out of showing their lemurs to boatloads of tourists, the villagers now have a thriving curio market. Take some spare cash, because among other things, the table-cloths sold there are of superior quality.

Most people visiting Madagascar want to see something of its fauna and flora. On Nosy Be, the best place in which to accomplish this, is the Lokobe Reserve. Lokobe holds Nosy Be's last 720 hectares of original Sambirano forest and is home to quite an array of rare animals and plants. Several species exist nowhere else.

Lokobe day excursions are hugely entertaining. First, you'll be taken by taxi to the Sakalava fishing village of Ambatozavavy. There, boatmen await and you hop into one of their outrigger canoes for the 45 minute row to another village, Ampasipohy. If you're feeling energetic, you may join in with the rowing. Alternatively, sit back, chill out and enjoy the jaunt. Out at sea with the Sakalava, one cannot help being endlessly impressed by their sailing prowess. It was in such primitive vessels (lakana) that their forebears first came to Madagascar 2,000 years back and settled on the last habitable landmass to be colonised by man. Today, dugouts remain their preferred means of marine transport and they continue to fish in these rich waters as they have done for centuries. In many ways, little has changed in coastal Malagasy life.

At Ampasipohy, we were met by the accomplished guide Jean "He-who-did-not-allow-us-to-speak-in-the-forest" Robert. He escorted us into the forest, where every few metres he would point out another of its odd denizens: a jewel-like mantella frog at a stream, a gaudy panther chameleon crossing the path, and then the Lemurs: endangered Black lemurs cavorted in the canopy, while goggle-eyed Sportive lemurs glared at us from their daytime resting places. There were medicinal plants galore, the profusion of which is exceptional in Malagasy forests.

Back at Ampasipohy, we were presented with a sumptuous Sakalava feast, including succulent grilled fish, mango and crab salad, along with the ubiquitous mounds of rice or "vary". Life really is harsh in paradise!

I explored other, less significant, corners of Nosy Be, and I have concluded that the island is every bit as "Madagascar" as the rest of the country. Sure, it may have more accommodation than most other tourist centres, but in my opinion its popularity stems largely from a seriously agreeable climate - balmy and always pleasant except during the peak of the hot, rainy season (February and March), a time when most people avoid Madagascar anyway.

Its most upscale hotels are of the "no frills" variety. As yet, nothing glitzy exists on Nosy Be. But change is imminent. In early 2000, a massive new resort owned by Club Med is to be opened on the northern beach of Andilana. Then, and only then, will Madagascar experience its first dose of mass tourism.

En route back to Fascene airport, I visited the island's "capital", Hell-Ville (Andoany). With its share of old, coastal Arab-style buildings, hotelys (local bars-cum-eating houses-cum-trading stores) and colourful shops, it differs little from other dilapidated Malagasy towns. Back up in the air again, I surveyed the archipelago in the azure Sea of Zanj. And I understood clearly that Nosy Be is just another of Madagascar's many, highly varied, facets - one which is strikingly similar to the main island, yet has enough packed in to make it an integral part of the Madagascar Experience.

Derek Schuurman is a freelance travel writer and author of several books on Madagascar. He is the director of a South African tour company.

Nosy be factfile

Access
Air Madagascar operates regular flights from Antananarivo, Mahajanga and Antsiranana, as well as a direct international flight from Réunion. There are two ferry services a day from Antsahampano. Departure times depend on the tide and the trip takes two hours.

Getting Around
Transport on the island is by taxi-be or private taxi. These are more expensive than on the mainland. Roads are surprisingly good-money from sugar and tourism has helped here.

Accommodation
There are numerous (small) hotels and guest houses in the various centres. It is adviseable, however, to book through an experienced agent who will be familiar with them all and who will be able to make reliable recommendations.

Diving
With three dive centres, Nosy Be is Madagascar's main diving venue. Best time is from May to October.

Cruising
Several companies offer sailing boats or small cabin cruisers to take visitors to the outlying islands. Or you could use the more traditional outriggers mentioned in this story.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Ten: Winter 1999/2000 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)