Kazuni Safari Camp, in Malawi's Vwaza Marsh Game reserve, looks out across the lake from which it takes its name. It is September, midway through the dry season; the rains are not expected for another three months. From the bar area, a constant ebb and flow of wildlife around the lake is visible. Impala are grazing on the flood plain, a single male trying to maintain discipline in his harem while remaining alert to the danger of young bucks from a nearby bachelor herd abducting one of his wives.

A troop of vervet monkeys scampers across the open space between the reed bed and the scrub, eager to avoid being on the menu of the martial eagle circling above. A male kudu with a magnificent set of spiral horns is accompanied by several females ambling across the flood plain to the distant acacia woodland for grazing and shade. Baboons swagger down to the lake's edge to drink and search for grubs in the mud, outriders keeping watch while youngsters cling to their mothers for safety. Distant pods of hippo sigh, snort, grunt and grumble. From the lodge they resemble clusters of rocks.

Thanks to this abundance and variety of wildlife, Vwaza Marsh is rated as one of the best reserves in Africa for game viewing from the lodge. The four reed-and-thatch huts and the boma (bar and dining area) are built in a stand of acacia, the pods of which tempt elephant to within 5-10m of the buildings. They snack or saunter through on their way to drink and cool off in Lake Kazuni. At night, hippo emerge from the water and can be heard grazing. The huts are open-fronted with verandahs, so you need never be out of touch with Africa.

Vwaza Marsh is one of the continent's secret treasures. Often underrated, it has only been visited by those in the know, perhaps due to the previously primitive infrastructure. For upmarket facilities, Kazuni Safari Camp was built in 1999, complete with luxuries such as en suite bathrooms, hot and cold running water, full board and activities like game drives and walks provided on an all-inclusive basis.

For budget travellers, a project in co-operation with German donors has improved the infrastructure of the nearby Lake Kazuni Camp, replacing the original reed huts. Bucket showers and long-drops have made way for an ablutions block supplied by borehole water. Self-catering remains the order of the day and food has to be brought in with you, though there are plans for a small shop selling basic supplies.

Vwaza shares the South Luangwa ecosystem with the park of the same name in Zambia. Consequently there is the same rich diversity of game, further enhanced by the variety of habitats in the reserve. Northwards lies the marsh from which the reserve takes its name: Vwaza is most probably an onomatopoeic word describing the sound of walking in its thick mud. It is a wetland of reed beds, sedges and grasses providing rich grazing for several antelope species (reedbuck, waterbuck, impala and puku), buffalo and abundant birdlife.

The marsh is fed by the Hewe River from the Nyika Plateau and emptied by the Luwewe River, both perennial. The South Rukuru fills Lake Kazuni in the south-east of the reserve. The lake and deep river channels are filled with hippo - around 570 according to a recent estimate - while the flood plains of both provide grazing for the herbivores.

Most of the remaining reserve is covered in brachystegia and combretum woodland, with small areas of mopane woodland (the reserve is one of the most northerly mopane locations). In addition, there is riparian forest, some open grassland and stands of acacia.

A large percentage of the park is flat, but an extension of the Nyika foothills in the south and east breaks the monotony of the landscape. These hills are criss-crossed with elephant tracks and are favoured by kudu and klipspringer. Uyuzi Hill, not far from Kazuni Safari Camp, gives some excellent views of the South Rukuru River, Lake Kazuni and the rest of the reserve. The camp plans to construct a viewing platform here for bush breakfasts, dinners and sundowners.

The reserve has a high density of termite mounds, some reaching as high as six metres, supporting different vegetation to the surrounding woodland as the termite activity alters soil composition. The mounds make excellent lookouts for antelope and such a plentiful supply of insects provides for a sizeable population of aardvark.

The best area for spotting wildlife away from the lodge is the Luwewe Circuit, an all-day drive across flood plains, open woodland and grassland, ideal for game viewing which can be difficult elsewhere in the reserve. In addition to the species seen around the lake, zebra, Lichtenstein's hartebeest, roan, and sable can be found.

Although driveable, the circuit is earmarked for improvement in the near future. Also slated for development are several loop roads closer to the camp that will improve the already good game-viewing along the South Rukuru River and round the lake.

There are predators at Vwaza but they are few, due in part to the relatively low density of herbivores away from the water sources. It's hoped that recent increases in herbivore populations will also increase the numbers of lion, leopard and hyena. African wild dogs sometimes pass through, apparently moving on to the Nyika National Park. They are originally assumed to have come from Zambia: there appears to be migration in both directions between South Luangwa and Vwaza Marsh, as they are only 60km apart (the western boundary of Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve lies along the Malawi-Zambia border).

This is an excellent place for walking safaris, from short lakeside walks to longer bush treks. As with all walking safaris, there's much more to see than the big game. The area heaves with birdlife: over 250 species have been recorded, of which it's possible to see perhaps 50 or 60 just around camp, more if you include the raptors circling above. The reserve is the only place in Malawi where you can find Swainson's francolin, the best area in the country for viewing waders, and apparently the place to spot the extremely rare and localised White-winged babbling starling.

Osprey, fish eagles, Palm-nut vultures and Martial eagles are regular visitors. The latter often circle looking for unwary vervet monkeys or young baboons. Owl-lovers will be delighted by the sight (but more often sound) of Barred, Giant eagle, Scops and Pearl-spotted owls in the immediate vicinity of the camp.

An Iron Age smelting site provides evidence of ancient human habitation. Later, elephant living here in sizeable numbers were hunted for ivory to trade with Arabs on Lake Malawi. The area's potential as a hunting area was formally recognised in 1941, when Lake Kazuni and land within a five-mile radius was proclaimed a game reserve. However, lack of management resources forced the colonial government to de-proclaim the area until 1956, when the Vwaza Marsh Game Controlled Area was established. Hunting was restricted but the local population was allowed to stay until 1977, when the land was gazetted as a game reserve and the population was resettled.

In an effort to win the support of the villagers and decrease subsistence poaching and the killing of escaped animals, local communities are allowed to utilise some of the reserve's resources. Honey, fish, and grass for thatching can be harvested in a controlled way. Similar in an embryonic form to Zimbabwe's CAMPFIRE programme, this has seen a marked improvement in relations between the reserve's management and local communities.

Vwaza Marsh is rarely visited as a stand-alone reserve but is usually combined with Nyika National Park or South Luangwa in Zambia. It's ideal for relaxing game viewing at the end of a hectic schedule of park visits.

Gordon Lethbridge is a freelance travel writer based in Wales.

Vwaza Factfile

Nyika Safari Company holds the concession for lodges and camps in Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve.

Accommodation

Kazuni Safari Camp (pictured): Four en-suite grass and pole lodges, each with its own verandah, and a bar/restaurant in a grove of acacia trees, all overlooking Lake Kazuni. The tariff of US$140 per night includes full board and game activities. Drinks, gratuities and park fees (currently US$5 per night) are extra.

Lake Kazuni Camp: Thatched huts with beds only are available near the park entrance for those wishing to self-cater, at US$10 per night.

Getting there

Air Malawi operates a service to Mzuzu from Lilongwe. From there it is two hours by road. Nyika Safaris provide a transfer for US$70 one-way. There are also transfers to and from Chelinda Camp in Nyika National Park.

When to go

August to November is the best time to go for game viewing. This is the dry season and the animals begin to concentrate around the water sources.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Fourteen: Winter 2000/2001 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)k.