Ishasha. I have always taken pleasure in saying that name out loud. Try it. It's a little like saying "delicious" but much more fun, more exotic. To me, Ishasha is one of those African names that stimulates the imagination and conjures up colourful imagery, like "Ngorongoro", "Ouagadougou" or "Zanzibar". 

But what is it? Why is it so special? Ishasha is the wild southern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP in Western Uganda, about three hours' drive from the main part of Queen Elizabeth, and about two hours from Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (where people go to see the Mountain Gorillas). Ishasha is often overlooked as just a lunch stop between parks - which is understandable. It is not well serviced by infrastructure; there is no real accommodation base and not much in the way of roads, yet it never fails to seduce visitors with its charm.

Talk of Ishasha to anyone who has been there, and the same enthusiasm is reflected in their eyes, rather like a joyful conspiracy. Queen Elizabeth should not be bypassed by any Ugandan safari. In the northern sector, well developed roads, lodges and camp sites ensure that all levels of visitors are catered for, but the southern sector - Ishasha - leaves you to your own devices. It's not for everybody: real bush, raw Africa. And while Ishasha may not have anything that you can't get in other East African parks, it's the package - the gestalt, if you will - that captures the imagination.

There are hippos in the pools, there are herds of Uganda kob, Water buck, topi, buffalo and elephant. Ask somebody "why do you love Ishasha?" and they cannot place their finger on it. "It's just ... different," is the common reply. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Perhaps it's to do with the widely believed legends of three- and four-tusked elephant, or the lions in the trees.

You need a vehicle to access Ishasha, and it had better be four-wheel drive. There are two main circuits, north and south, and an overgrown bush trail leading to the mudflats of Lake Edward, where you are most likely to come across elephant and buffalo.Drive along the northern circuit and you're in savannah - gentle rolling grassland and sweeping vistas of golden green. Try the southern circuit, and as you drive up the ridge you'll find yourself entering a sparse acacia forest, interlaced with wide-boughed fig trees - perfect for lions. The trees command an excellent view of the surrounding land, providing cool, dark shade and welcome respite from insects.

Throughout Africa, it is unusual to see lions in trees; this behaviour is more often associated with lions in Lake Manyara NP in Tanzania, but in Ishasha it is commonplace. On my visit not only did we spend lunch watching seven lions under an acacia, but we also witnessed three lionesses hunting, and then came across a whole pride, all draped Dali-esque in the same fig tree. Imagine the thrill of seeing a large, full-maned male lounging in the shade of the boughs, joined by the rest of the pride, their massive paws dangling lazily over the edge of the branches!  Camping by the hippo pools is equally memorable. Pods of hippo graze among the grasses, wade about the shallows and vie for the cool shaded waters. The raised banks of the Ishasha River are ideal for watching them - you can observe from your perch in relative safety. Hippos are known to be the most dangerous animals on the continent, and the expression on an angry hippo's face has been described as "imbecile and malevolent". But in a group, wallowing in the river, they appear docile, almost comical, and so numerous one could run across their backs and cross the river to the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Of course, as with anything, this glut of tree- and river-dwelling mammals comes at a price: it is jolly difficult to get a good night's sleep here. Shadows play against the thin nylon of the tent, the relative safety of the vehicle seems very far away and the noises are magnified in the dark. The harrumphing of the hippos suddenly sounds menacing; the distant roar of the lion is not distant enough. The hyaenas come to inspect the camp site noisily, checking for any titbits leftover by the fireside. Ishasha is not the place for peace and quiet, but with sunrise comes peace of mind. 

Isahasha Factfile

Getting There
The quickest way to the park is a chartered flight to Mweya Lodge airstrip or to Kasese just over sixty kilometres away. The park is a six hour, 440 km drive from Kampala via Mbarara to the northern sector turn off five kilometres from Kasese. Matatus may drop you at the gate, fifteen kilometres on, from whence a pick-up can be radioed for. Those aiming for Ishasha by road will find the route from Mbarara through Kabale, or Bwindi National Park via Kihihi, more direct but there is no regular public transport plying these roads.

Where to Stay
In the northern sector there are three lodges, Chambura River Gorge, Mweya and Jacana Camp. Mweya, with views of the Ruwenzori and Vuringa Mountains over Katwe Bay is popular with weekending Kampala residents. Jacana Camp on Crater Lake is markedly more upmarket than the other two. Budget travellers are catered for at the Institute of Ecology camp, the Student Hostel (when not full with local youths) and, best of all, the Christian Guesthouse. There are camping sites near Mweya. Visitors to the south may stay at either Ishasha Camp or one of the three campsites set in riverbank forests. It is advisable to book Ishasha's simple bandas in advance through National Park's HQ in Kampala - there's only two of them! 

Published in Travel Africa Edition Sixteen: Summer 2001 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)