In ten years of travelling to the "Grande Ile" I've experienced the full cross-section of habitats: rainforest in the east, deciduous forest in the west and spiny desert in the south (Madagascar is virtually a mini-continent). Such variation has helped promote the amazing diversity contained within.

All too often, the lemurs hog people's attention - hardly surprising, as these offshoots of the primate family are among the most endearing animals. But Madagascar has so much more to offer - a collection of wacky creatures that baffle, amaze and delight.

It's worth dwelling on a few facts and figures. The island's forests harbour over 12,000 species of plants and trees; Madagascar has no toads, but over 300 species of frog, 99% of which are found nowhere else; over half the world's chameleon species are confined to the island; families like the iguana lizards and boas have their closest relatives not in Africa as one might expect, but South America; there may be relatively few species of bird (around 270 have been recorded), but some 60% are endemic, including five whole families - more than any other country in Africa.

Many of these unsung treasures have become my firm favourites. The variety and depth is bewildering, but here are the ones I think epitomise what's unique about Madagascar's wildlife.

Frogs

All it takes is a sudden downpour and the frog chorus begins. Forests that previously lay almost silent are transformed instantly and reverberate to high-pitched squeaks, peeps and croaks. There are multitudes of frogs out there, but finding them is another matter. The most common species belong to the genera Boophis and Mantidactylus; generally various shades of green and brown, they can be found from ground level to the canopy. Harder to track down, but far more spectacular, are the terrestrial Mantella frogs. This group of thumb-nail-sized, brightly coloured amphibians is Madagascar's equivalent of the New World's Poison dart frogs. Looking like a confectioner's outrageous creation, the Painted mantella (M. madagascariensis) is my favourite. Repeated metallic "tink, tink, tinks" betray its whereabouts in the leaf litter, although amazingly for such a gaudy frog, pinpointing it is difficult. Mantadia and Ranomafana NPs are the best places to look.

In complete contrast is one of the island's largest species, the Tomato frog (Dyscophus antongili). This bulbous, bright red creature is nocturnal and found around the town of Maroantsetra in the north-east of the island. Not restricted to forests, it can often be found on night walks in rice paddies and drainage ditches around human habitation. Lethargic and harmless it may look, but would-be predators are in for a surprise - if harassed and threatened, the Tomato frog exudes a thick, toxic secretion to gum up the mouth of its attacker.

Giraffe-necked weevil

In a land where weird animals are commonplace, the Giraffe-necked weevil (Trachelophorus giraffa) courts disbelief: a baked bean-sized beetle that looks like an entomological interpretation of a building site crane. It feeds on the leaves of Dichaetanthera cordifoloia, the small tree on which it's invariably found. Only males have the really long "necks", which they use for rolling a leaf into an egg case, in which the female (whose neck is half as long) lays a single egg. They may be found in a number of mid-altitude rainforest reserves, but in Mantadia and Ranomafana NPs, they are common.

Snakes

My childhood love of snakes has firmly persisted into adulthood. Africa's snakes are generally best avoided, but Madagascar's are different because none are poisonous. Many fall into the small sombre inconspicuous category, but some are utterly bizarre, like the Spear-nosed snake (Langaha madagascariensis), or large and impressive like the Giant hog-nosed snake (Leioheterodon madagascariensis). My favourites are the boas; there are only three species, but they're all equally beautiful.

Rainforests are the favoured haunts of the Madagascar tree boa (Sanzinia madagascariensis). Contrary to its name, it can oftenbe encountered basking at ground level. Only occasionally do specimens exceed 1.5m in length. Adults are normally very placid and can be easily approached or even handled.

Among the world's most beautiful snakes is Madagascar's largest species (up to 3m), the Ground boa (Acrantophis madagascariensis). Its riotous crazy-paving pattern of browns, creams and black provides eerie camouflage as it moves stealthily across leaf litter on the forest floor. Although found in rainforest areas, it is more likely to be seen in the drier deciduous forests of the west-Kirindy, Ampijoroa and Ankarana are particularly good locations. Smaller mammals like rodents and tenrecs are regular prey, as are other reptiles like iguanid lizards and large geckos. A close relative, Dumeril's boa (Acrantophis dumerili), is smaller and also beautifully patterned, but is restricted to the drier spiny forest regions of the south.

Chameleons

Chameleons are perhaps the most specialised of all lizards. Their independently swivelling eyes, projectile tongue, prehensile tail and fused, pincer-like feet are exquisite adaptations to a life clambering about in trees - unique features which distinguish them from all other lizards. On Madagascar they have found their promised land - around 60% of the world's 130 species make the island their home, including both the largest and smallest.

There are two contenders for the heavyweight championship: Oustalet's chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti), widespread in the drier regions of the west and south, and Parson's chameleon (Calumma parsoni), which prefers the humid rainforest areas of the east. Both species can reach 80cm in length - at that size they resemble mini Tricerotops dinosaurs - and are capable of capturing prey the size of mice.

Most miniscule are the Stump-tailed chameleons (genus Brookesia) that rarely exceed 10cm and spend most of their time foraging on the forest floor. They are closely related to the Dwarf chameleons (genus Rhampholeon) from the forests of East and southern Africa. Both families have evolved to blend beautifully into the leaf litter they inhabit. Tiniest of all is the Pygmy stump-tailed chameleon (B. minima), found in the forests of north-east Madagascar. Although only 2cm long, it is in every way a chameleon in miniature, right down to its Lilliputian diet of tiny ants and aphids.

Contrary to popular belief, chameleons generally change colour not for camouflage, but more often as a reflection of mood change and emotion. This is especially true when breeding - for chameleons, colour is the language of love. The master in this masquerade is the Panther chameleon (Furcifer pardalis): not only is it spectacularly patterned, it is also extremely aggressive (hence its name). Females advertise their readiness to mate by changing colour. Competing males then try to outshine one another with riotous exhibitions of greens, blues, yellows, reds and oranges. If this fails to find a victor, their aggression spills over into full-blown combat. Once mating has occurred and the female is gravid (pregnant with eggs), she changes colour again (generally becoming much darker) to signify her unavailability.

Geckos

At every turn, wildlife in Madagascar elicits gasps of amazement, but most jaw-dropping of all are the Leaf-tailed geckos (genus Uroplatus). Evolution to the nth degree has produced nine alien-like species with near-perfect camouflage. Some (like U. sikorae) mimic lichen and moss, some tree bark (U. henkeli) and some dead shrivelled leaves (like the brilliantly-named U. phantasticus).

The largest and arguably most impressive species is Uroplatus fimbriatus (a bark mimic). By day, these creatures lie head-down, flat against a tree trunk, their outline blending imperceptibly into the bark. Only if disturbed or threatened do they move, often flicking back their spatula-like tails and gaping widely to expose their blood-red inner mouth. It's easier to look for them at night when they're active. They occur in most rainforest areas and it's possible (though difficult) to find them in many reserves. However, on Nosy Mangabe, in the absence of predators (birds like vangas and couas), they're incredibly common and easy to find.

The Day geckos (genus Phelsuma) couldn't provide a greater contrast: active by day, most species are vivid emerald green with various patterns of red spots, and often seem to flaunt their presence by basking in pools of sunlight.

Ground Rollers

The ground rollers (Brachypteraciidae) are my favourite endemic bird family. There are only five species, four of which are restricted to the eastern rainforests. All are frustratingly furtive and elusive, but even the slightest glimpse of these avian jewels illuminates any forest walk. Most likely to be encountered (especially at Ranomafana National Park) is the Pitta-like ground roller (Atelornis pittoides). It can be remarkably tolerant if approached cautiously, particularly around dawn and dusk. But my favourite is the Scaly ground roller (B. squamigera). Normally very reluctant to fly, with luck this bird can be seen at Mantadia National Park flicking through dead leaves in search of invertebrates.

The oddity of the family is the Long-tailed ground roller (Uratelornis chimaera) which is confined to a narrow south-western strip of coastal spiny forest (the Mikea Forest). These are fabulous birds in their own right, but seeing them in a habitat that resembles a surreal film-set embellishes the encounter. From September onwards the Ground rollers begin to breed, laying their eggs in metre-long burrows excavated in the sandy soils. It is terrific to sit and watch pairs of birds scuttling back to their nests before disappearing underground.

Vangas

The most celebrated family of birds in Madagascar are the Vangas (Vangidae). As a family, only Darwin's finches from the Galapagos can match their diversity of form, beak shape and feeding methods. There are no less than 15 different species that fill niches occupied in other parts of the world by woodpeckers, woodhoopoes, shrikes, tits, treecreepers and nuthatches - all absent from Madagascar. Some species are very common and widespread - for instance, Chabert's vanga (Leptopterus chaberti) and the Hook-billed vanga (Vanga curvirostris). Others are rarer and harder to locate, such as Pollen's vanga (Xenopirostris polleni) and Van Dam's vanga (Xenopirostris damii).

For visual impact, one species stands out. When I first saw a Helmet vanga (Euryceros prevostii), I could scarcely believe my eyes. A thrush-sized, predominantly jet-black bird with a rich chestnut-brown back and tail sounds no big deal, but what an amazing beak - almost impractically massive and of an electric blue so intense I imagined a light bulb glowing inside. They are confined to lowland rainforests of the north-east, and most birders head for the Masoala Peninsula (where other rarities like the Red owl, Tyto soumagnei, can also be seen) to collect their tick. But my choice is Marojejy NP (my favourite in Madagascar) - a mountainous wilderness with stunning rainforests and breath-taking views.

(In edition 17, Nick Garbutt will look at Madagascar's mammals.)

Places to Visit

Eastern Rainforests

· Ranomafana National Park
An excellent reserve, with good guides and forest trails. Birdlife is diverse with many of the endemics-Vangas, Ground rollers, Mesites, Asities-often seen. Reptiles and frogs are diverse and abundant. Good at night, so have a torch handy.

· Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
The most accessible rainforest reserve, with good accommodation on its doorstep. A top-notch place for birdwatching, especially for rainforest specials like Ground rollers. Many snakes, chameleons and frogs.

· Nosy Mangabe
An island off the north-east coast, great for Leaf-tailed geckos (day and night) and Green-backed mantella frogs.

· Marojejy National Park
Recently created and not for the faint-hearted, this fantastically rugged area offers fabulous trekking in pristine forest. There is a dizzying abundance of birds, reptiles and frogs, but finding them requires time and effort.

· Masoala National Park
The largest remaining expanse of lowland rainforest on the island. Brilliant birding for a number of rare endemics. Reptiles and frogs are also plentiful. The walking can be tough and it is often very wet.

Western Dry Forests

· Ampijoroa Forest Station
Easily accessible from Mahajanga. Abundant reptiles, and birds are also very good. The walking is flat, but it can get hot.

· Kirindy Forest
After rain, the forests are alive with chameleons, geckos and snakes. Birds are also diverse but some can be tough to track down.

Southern Forests

· Berenty Reserve
Perhaps the island's best-known reserve. Lots of lemurs, plus chameleons and birds offering great photo opportunities in a pleasant easy-going environment.

When to Visit

September to December is the best time for birds as they are breeding. Frogs and reptiles can be good at this time too, but are better when it's wet, during the Malagash summer. However, between January and April you'll find very heavy cyclonic rains.

Getting There

Only Air Madagascar and Air France fly from Europe (via Paris). Air Madagascar, Air Mauritius and others fly from Nairobi and Johannesburg.

Getting Around

There is an extensive domestic flight service in and out of the capital, Antananarivo, to all regional centres. From here, local buses and taxis will take you to the reserves. This can be arduous and time consuming for the first time visitor, so an organised wildlife tour is by far the best option. These typically last two to three weeks and visit four or five key wildlife areas. All wildlife watching in the parks is on foot. In eastern rainforest areas the terrain can be tough: hills are often steep and trails slippery. In the drier western and southern regions the terrain is generally flatter, but it can get very hot.

Accommodation and Food

In the cities and larger towns, hotels vary in standard from very good (up to £50 per night) to cheap and seedy (less than £7 per night). In the rural areas (including around the parks and reserves), hotels and lodges are sometimes rustic but generally adequate: expect to pay £8 to £20 per night. In the more remote parks, self-sufficient camping is necessary. Food in Madagascar is always good and cheap. Many places offer traditional Malagasy cuisine, but there are also strong French and Chinese influences.

Guides

When visiting a park, it is compulsory to employ the services of a local guide. In the more popular reserves, most guides speak some English and have a good knowledge of the wildlife.

Nick Garbutt leads nature tours to Madagascar, and is the co-author of Bradt's Madagascar's Wildlife, A Visitor's Guide.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Sixteen: Summer 2001 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)