I watched the cobra. The cobra watched the end of the flute. The flautist was going cross-eyed, with one eye focusing on both the flute and the cobra, and the other fixed on me. We were locked in a threesome, enchanted by the music that rasped discordantly across the Djemaa el Fna, Marrakech's central square. When the music stopped, the spell was broken and both snake and charmer turned and looked at me. I felt obliged to drop a few dirhams into the pot and moved on to the next attraction.

Cordoned from the road by a line of market stalls selling fresh oranges, dates and piles of roasted almonds, the whole square thronged with activity. Water carriers, dressed in red robes, large tasselled sombrero-like hats and leather bandoleers, moved between the people ringing their handbells. Troupes of acrobats were tying their bodies into perverse contorted knots. Storytellers stood among gathered crowds, lyrically captivating audiences in a Berber dialect.

Evening came and the square became busier still as the food stalls were set up. Smoke wafted from their open charcoal grills and mingled with the aroma of sizzling meats. It was only the first day of our self-drive tour of Morocco but already I was overwhelmed by the country's charged atmosphere.

Over the next couple of days my wife and I explored Marrakech to the full. We walked the narrow alleyways of the souks, past haggling vendors selling everything from household goods and leather poufs, to kitchenware and tourist kitsch. We visited the historic palaces and tombs behind the old city walls of the kasbah - masterpieces of Islamic architecture rich with stucco (decorative plaster carved with intricate arabesque calligraphy) and zellij work (bright geometric patterns laid in ceramic tiles).

The Atlantic Coast - Essaouira

Two hours' drive west of Marrakech, a long wind-swept beach led to the walled town of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. It looked like a fortress with impressive battlements, but when we passed through the elegant arched gateways, we entered a charming, relaxed town. The buildings are whitewashed, their doors and balconies painted blue. The alleyways contain numerous art and craft shops, and set within the rampart walls is the woodworkers' souk. In these vaulted workshops, craftsmen produce anything from small boxes to furniture mastercrafted from a local burr wood called thuya.

Down at the small harbour, the local fishing fleet brings in the catch each day. You can eat very cheaply from the stalls if you want simple charcoal-grilled fish straight from the catch. Alternatively, in the harbour there is an excellent fish restaurant called Chez Sam. It is relatively expensive but I rate it as one of the best fish restaurants in Morocco.

The High Atlas

Feeling relaxed from our stay at Essaouira, we continued our road journey, backtracking and skirting Marrakech on our way up to the Tizi n'Tichka pass in the High Atlas Mountains. From here we followed an old tribal route that cuts through red and yellow ochre hillsides of ever-changing hues, towards the southern town of Ouarzazate. The journey is fascinating, passing by the old Glaoui Kasbah at Telouet, and the area is ideal for trekking and mountain biking.

The Glaouis were clan leaders who once controlled this important trade route from Marrakech to the southern valleys of the Draa and the Dades. The kasbah, once their family castle and palace, was only abandoned as recently as 1956. It is an impressive building, dominating the area, although its mud walls are crumbling.

Beyond Telouet the road deteriorated to a 4x4 track, which emerged just north of Ouarzazate at a place called Ait Benhaddou. Berber children ran towards us and waved as we drove. Although Morocco is often thought of as an Arab country, and the official language is Moroccan Arabic (different from the classical and modern Arabic languages to the East), only about 10% of the people are what might be called pure Arabs. They tend to live in the north, and in cities like Tangier, Fez and Meknes.

The majority of the population are the indigenous Berbers, who are always extremely hospitable. It is not uncommon to be invited into a tiny little house to take tea with a family and to be shown around. This is done out of pride and hospitality, never for money. Much of the country is a mixture of Arab and Berber cultures, but the further south and the more remote you go, the more you encounter Berber communities with very little Arab influence.

Kasbahs and camel treks

Guarding the southern entrance to the route are prominent hills clad with one of Morocco's most beautiful complexes of kasbahs. An outstanding example of pre-Saharan architecture, they have been used as location sets for numerous films. These clusters of palatial buildings have been sympathetically restored in recent years with the help of unesco, which declared Ait Benhaddou a World Heritage Site in 1987.

The kasbahs feature throughout this area of Southern Morocco, in particular along the fertile valleys of Draa and Dades - so much so that the Dades is often referred to as "the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs". We drove south through the Draa Valley to Zagora on the edge of the Sahara, where a famous sign points across the desert to Timbuktu, 52 days away by camel. We didn't have 52 days to spare but Tinfou, a little further south, is a perfect place to start a shorter camel trek. There are proper sand dunes and vast open spaces. Treks can last a few hours or a few days, camping out under the stars with Bedouin hosts.

Into the Gorges

Back on the road eastwards through the Dades Valley, the main attractions (apart from the kasbahs) are the spectacular gorges. Heading once more into the Atlas from Boumalne, the valley gradually became narrower until there was just the width of the road and the river passing through the sheer cliffs of the Dades Gorge. This turned out to be a great place for trekking and we walked for miles, beyond the roads, right up into a remote Berber settlement.

The Todra Gorge, a little further east, is an even more spectacular sight. We forded a shallow river to drive into the hidden gorge, with sheer rock faces towering up 300m from the valley floor. Once inside it felt as though we were cut off from the rest of the world. There are a couple of small hotels within the gorge, which several people were using as starting points for 4x4 trails through the mountains. Others were taking advantage of the excellent opportunities for some challenging rock climbing.

Saharan sand dunes

It was a long hot road east from Todra to Erfoud, after which the paved road ran out. Desert tracks are not the easiest things to follow, but having got to within 35km of some of the world's greatest sand dunes, we were not going to turn back. We pressed on across the sands and made it to Merzouga. This really was the end of the track, where Erg Chebbi, a sea of sand constantly shifting in the winds, encroached on a small godforsaken village, engulfing buildings in its path.

We drove along the edge of the dunes - the tallest in Morocco, among the tallest in the world. Towering walls of sand rose from the flat gravel desert floor. How people manage to live in this hostile environment is beyond me, and yet there is a mesmerising beauty and serenity to this desert scenery.

Finding a small auberge snuggled between the dunes, we stopped for the night. As evening fell we walked out into the desert, up soft hills that cascaded underfoot over furrowed patterns carved by the wind.

Imperial cities

From Erg Chebbi to Meknes in the north was just about driveable in a single long day. Meknes is like a smaller version of nearby Fez, and both of these cities heave with character. The old walled parts, the medinas, are labyrinths of small alleyways where most of the souks are found. Whole streets might be devoted to a single product, perhaps specialising in copper and brassware, pottery, magnificent carpets or musical instruments. Unlike a western shopping centre, what makes these souks so memorable is that everywhere you look people are making things. Crafts are still handmade using traditional skills.

A visit to the dye pits to see leather being tanned is a must - so long as you can tolerate the smell. Among this maze of workshops, arched doorways lead into quiet courtyards of mosques and medersas (Koranic schools). These are always exquisite examples of Islamic architecture, as are the city gates and imperial palaces that dominate the medinas.

Here, as throughout Morocco, people were generally friendly, although you can feel hassled around marketplaces if you don't have a guide - more so in Fez than in Meknes or Marrakech. As soon as you hire a guide (usually inexpensive and very rewarding, especially when exploring a medina), you are left well alone by hawkers. Of course there are some excellent salesmen in the souks - and yes, they will try to sell you carpets, particularly in Fez.

The North Coast

The final leg of our journey took us further north to Tangier on the coast of the Strait of Gibraltar. Being so close to Europe, this is one of the most visited parts of Morocco. Nearby are picturesque fishing villages, such as whitewashed Asilah to the south, but Tangier itself lacks the atmosphere, intrigue and excitement I had experienced in the rest of Morocco.

It is a town with an exotic reputation which stems from a bygone era. In parts it has been westernised and in others it is in a state of decay. Although it is a gateway to Morocco and gives a hint of what lies beyond, I couldn't help feeling that the day-trippers I saw in its markets were missing out on the culture, the natural beauty and the sensual atmosphere that epitomise the country. It was a world apart from the Morocco that had captivated me in the magical Djemaa el Fna of Marrakech.

Weekends away

In addition to offering visitors full length holidays, Morocco's close proximity to Europe makes it ideal for quick getaways. Marrakech is firmly on the hotlist of weekend destinations, with exotic living that makes you feel you've been away far longer. Here's a selection of some the best short breaks available.

Abercrombie and Kent

www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

Prices are per person, including flights and transfers.

Amanjena, Marrakech

The first Aman Resorts property in Africa, the new Amanjena lies among palms and olive trees outside Marrakech and promises to surpass the expectations of any Aman hotels addict. The name means "Peaceful Paradise". The architecture reflects the style of an Arab palace, with a Moorish interior. Accommodation is in one of 34 striking, spacious pavilions or a maison, some with private courtyards. Amanjena's numerous facilities include a pool, fitness centre, tennis courts and a golf course. 4 nights (room only) for £1490- £1595.

Riad Noga, Marrakech

Riad Noga is hidden away just 10 minutes' walk from the colourful market stalls of Djemaa el Fna (the main square). The traditional main townhouse (with new guest wing) is built around an olive and orange tree-filled courtyard. Each of the seven bedrooms is decorated in rich colours. There is a tiled pool, and hiking, horse-riding and 18-hole golf courses are nearby. 4 nights' B&B for £590- £750.

La Mamounia, Marrakech

The legendary La Mamounia has drawn travellers for over 80 years, including Sir Winston Churchill. Its fusion of styles includes traditional Moorish and 1920s Art Deco. There are lush gardens, Andalusian courtyards and ornate salons. Accommodation in rooms, suites or villas. Five restaurants, a casino and fitness centre. Prices (room only) for £795-980.

La Gazelle D'Or, Taroudant

Originally home to a French baron whose visiting friends were accommodated in bungalows scattered around the garden estate. Set amid orange groves outside Taroudant, a town billed as a mini-Marrakech, overlooking the Atlas mountains. Described as "more country house party than hotel", with interiors of Moroccan mosaics and antiques. 4 nights (full board) for £1155- £1330.

Tribes

www.tribes.co.uk

Tribes personalises tours. A typical itinerary might be:

Alternatively, people wanting a Friday evening to Monday evening trip can choose an itinerary based on the one above, excluding the full day's hiking, with simply an afternoon and evening for exploring Marrakech. Costs around £625 based on 2 people (twin share), including flights and guides.

www.webweekends.co.uk

Prices (except Amanjena) are per person, based on two people sharing, including return flights, accommodation, breakfast, guidebook and taxi/minibus transfers. Prices vary seasonally.

Hotel Oudaya, Marrakech

Traditional Moroccan hospitality and a great base for exploring the city. 2 nights: £329-439.

The Sheraton

Close to the centre of Marrakech and situated in its own lavish gardens, the Sheraton offers international luxury including air-con, pool and tennis courts. 2 nights: £379-589. City tours are available from £13.

Webweekends also offers Riad Noga for 4 nights at £590-750 and Amanjena for 4 nights (flights, transfers and accommodation only) at £1490-1585.

Getting around Morocco

Royal Air Maroc, its subsidiary RAI and regional airlines run regular flights between the main cities. These centres are also networked by rail and road. Economy class carriages on trains are basic and crowded, but relatively inexpensive. Highly competitive government (CTM) and private bus services cover the country, the latter being a bit cheaper but slower and less reliable. Urban buses are usually very crowded. Grands taxis, travelling fixed routes within and between towns, are quicker but cost a bit more.

Metered petits taxis operate in towns.

The country has a large road network. From Casablanca to Rabat and on toward Tangier there is a good toll road, but elsewhere many roads are narrow, winding and sometimes hazardous thanks to poor bus and taxi driving. Cars, motorbikes and bicycles can be hired in the cities. 4x4 is needed in the mountains and the Sahara.

Red Tape

Vaccination certificates and visas are not required for North American and EU passport holders.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Seventeen: Autumn 2001. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)