The perfect playground
William Gray is the authority on travelling with children: he’s taken his to the far-flung corners of the globe. His newly-published book, Travel with Kids, is full of intriguing and exciting options (as well as plenty of advice) for you and your family. Here are some of his thoughts on taking the little, or not-so-little, ones to Africa.

If there’s one thing guaranteed to get the grandparents tutting and clucking it’s the mere mention of the words ‘kids’, ‘holiday’ and ‘Africa’ in the same sentence. “Is it safe? What about malaria? The local zoo has lions – why don’t you go there instead?” You can’t blame them for being concerned. Africa has its fair share of challenges when it comes to travel. But, equally, it has plenty of destinations that are ideal for families. South Africa’s Cape region, for example, has everything from wonderful beaches to malaria-free game reserves, while East Africa is perfect for a safari/beach combo. There’s more to Africa, though, than these well-established family favourites. Ever wondered what it would be like to do a roly-poly down one of the world’s highest sand dunes? Or paddle in the wake of famous explorers like Dr David Livingstone? These and countless other adventures are up for grabs in Namibia and Zambia. And let’s not forget North Africa. In Morocco, mule-supported treks can transport your tribe into the heart of the Atlas Mountains, while you might opt for camels or sailing feluccas to introduce your kids to the wonders of ancient Egypt.

Egypt: Unlocking the treasure chest
Got yourself an infant Indiana Jones or little Lara Croft? If your kids are into adventure and hidden treasure, Egypt makes an exciting and educational destination where you can combine the mysteries of the Pharaohs with some beach time on the Red Sea coast. Many parents get DDS (Disney Dithering Syndrome) when it comes to Egypt, constantly asking themselves: “Are our kids too young? Will they get much out of it?” Obviously, school-age children who have covered ancient Egypt in the classroom will be blown away by seeing the real thing, but that doesn’t mean younger travellers will find it boring. The secret is to combine fact with fun. Don’t make your trip an endless procession of museums and adult-focused tours – instead, build itineraries around mini-adventures, like sailing on a felucca or riding a camel.

Top tips: Nile Valley
  - Avoid excessive heat by travelling during autumn and spring
  - At historic sites, keep children interested for longer by setting them challenges like hieroglyphic code-busting
  - Top kids’ foods include shish tawouq kebabs, fiteer pizzas and kushari noodles. Let fussy feeders choose from a range of mezze dishes
  - Take rehydration sachets with you in case of diarrhoea

Where can I learn to scuba dive?
Learning to scuba-dive opens your eyes to a whole new world and there are few better places to learn than the Red Sea. Look out for operators that are accredited to PADI (www.padi.com). PADI Gold Palm Resorts (located worldwide) put as much emphasis on diver safety and environmental awareness as quality accommodation. In Egypt, you’ll find several at Dahab, El Gouna, El Quseir and Hurghada. The minimum age for learning to dive is ten – although children as young as eight can take the plunge with a PADI Bubblemaker try-dive (but only in a swimming pool and to a maximum depth of 2m). Children aged ten+ can enrol in the Discover Scuba Diving programme where they’ll experience the thrill of diving – but, again, only in a pool. In order to dive in the sea, kids aged 10-14 must take a Junior Open Water Diver course (or Open Water Diver course if they’re 15 and over). This typically lasts four days, during which you will learn the fundamentals of scuba-diving in a safe pool environment before putting your newfound skills to the test with four open water dives.

Morocco: A tonic for the senses
If you want a family trip that’s big on adventure, culture and scenery, but only feel like dipping a toe outside the ‘comfort zone’ of Europe, then Morocco is the place for you. Nip across the 13km wide Straits of Gibraltar and you will find yourself transported into a world of exotic new sights, sounds, smells and tastes. Don’t feel intimidated. The souks of Marrakech and Fez may well leave you reeling, but Morocco has plenty of other less frantic attractions – from mule-supported trekking in the Atlas Mountains to surfing on the Atlantic coast.

Top tips: Marrakech
  - Home in on the medina’s main square, Djemma el-Fna, and the nearby labyrinth of souks
  - Hold hands – this is not a place you want to lose someone
  - When kids start to tire, flag down a horse-drawn caleche or retreat to a rooftop terrace
  - For something similar on a smaller, less bewildering scale, visit Taroudant, a walled city in southern Morocco that resembles a ‘mini Marrakech’. Fez also has a wonderfully chaotic medina

Where can I ride a camel in the Sahara?
Erg Chebbi, Morocco’s only genuine Saharan erg (large expanse of sand dunes) can be found near the village of Merzouga, about 50km south of Erfoud. Camel treks, ranging from sunset strolls to overnight expeditions, can be booked through local hotels. Auberge Kasbah Derkaoua (www.aubergederkaoua.com) also offers desert escapades by horseback and 4WD.

Kenya: Land of the Lion King
Safari. If ever there was a word to inspire wanderlust in a child, this is the one. Not only does it conjure images of lions, elephants, zebras and all the other childhood animal favourites, but it simply oozes with the promise of adventure. Safaris are the ultimate I-Spy. Yes, there will be dust, heat, pre-dawn wake-up calls and even the occasional frustrating game drive when all you see is the retreating posterior of a lone warthog, its tail held aloft like a defiant flag of victory. But Kenyans have been refining the safari for long enough to ensure that the needs of families are well catered for – this was, after all, where safaris were invented (the word means ‘journey’ in Swahili). Combine animal magic with beach bliss by dividing your holiday between a safari and a sojourn on Kenya’s reef-fringed coastline.

Top tips: Great Rift Valley
  - Choose from budget camping safaris to more up-market trips staying in lodges and luxury tented camps
  - Some lodges impose a minimum age limit of around eight
  - Allow at least a week for a circuit which includes Mt Kenya, Lakes Nakuru and Naivasha and the Masai Mara

Where can I eyeball a giraffe?
Langata Giraffe Centre (www.giraffecentre.org) is your best bet for getting on level terms with these lofty creatures. Located 20km from downtown Nairobi, the centre has rescued, hand-reared and released back into the wild about 500 orphaned giraffes. A raised wooden platform provides an excellent vantage for either watching or feeding the residents – but watch out for those tongues! They can reach up to 50cm in length and are blue-black in colour!

Tanzania: Where the wild things are
In many ways Tanzania is like a bigger version of Kenya. It has perhaps slightly less in the way of family-friendly accommodation (particularly for children under eight), but you can still easily combine a safari with a beach holiday. Three places that are likely to spring to mind when contemplating a trip to Tanzania are Kilimanjaro, the Serengeti and Zanzibar. Although trekking on Africa’s highest peak is a considerable undertaking for adults and children alike, a guided safari to see the big game of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, followed by some snorkelling on Zanzibar’s coral reefs, has all the ingredients for Africa’s ultimate wildlife experience.

Top tips: Northern safari circuit
  - Wildlife concentrations in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro are highest from December to June; wildebeest migrate north May to July
  - Some lodges have a minimum age limit of eight
  - Visit your (very) distant cousins at the Olduvai Gorge human fossil site
  - Don’t forget binoculars, field guides and a tick list

Where can I climb the tallest mountain?
It might look tempting, rising serenely above the tawny savannah, but the 5895m summit of Mt Kilimanjaro is not something to set your sights on with young children in tow. Although non-technical, the return trek to the summit is a five-to seven-day slog, fraught with the possibilities of fatigue, dehydration and acute mountain sickness. Fair enough if teenagers feel up to the challenge, but parents with determined younger children should stick to a two-day taster – hiking the first day of the Marangu Trail, spending a night at Mandara camp, and scrambling up to Maundi Crater for panoramic views before heading back down again. A gentler alternative to Kili is to walk in the Crater Highlands with a Maasai guide.

Zambia: Wildlife and the ‘Wow!’ factor
Zambia might not immediately strike you as being particularly family-friendly. However, don’t let its reputation for posh lodges, private air charters and pricey five-star pampering put you off. There are some great options for family safaris in South Luangwa National Park ranging from reasonably priced self-catering camps to seriously expensive private safari houses. And then, of course, there’s Victoria Falls. Over 100m high, 1700m wide and disgorging up to 550 million litres of water every minute, this World Heritage Site has become Africa’s undisputed adventure capital.

Top tips: Victoria Falls
  - Knife Edge Bridge leads to a spectacular viewpoint of the Eastern Cataracts, but be prepared to get soaked by spray. Warning! There are no fences between you and the gorge. Victoria Falls National Park on the Zimbabwean side has more viewpoints, including Danger Point and Devil’s Cataract
  - The falls are impressive year-round, though spray during peak flood (March and April) can obscure views
  - Choose from accommodation in Livingstone or along the banks of the Zambezi upstream from the Falls
  - Most hotels can book any of the plethora of activities

Where can I walk on the wild side?
Walking safaris were pioneered in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park where both the wildlife and standard of guiding are legendary. The minimum age is usually 12. Apart from Flatdogs Camps (www.flatdogscamp.com), which offers camping and self-catering accommodation in a three-bedroom family house, most accommodation is in luxury lodges and tented camps.

Namibia: Desert, coast, safari… action!
Why take your kids to Namibia instead? Well, for starters it has lots in common with its southern neighbour – direct flights from Europe, guaranteed sunshine, good infrastructure and plenty to do for all ages. But add to the equation Namibia’s haunting emptiness, fantasy landscapes and a sandpit the size of a desert and you have a family adventure that leaves the Cape looking rather tame. What’s more, planning a family trip to Namibia is a piece of cake – just slice your itinerary into three chunks: desert, coast and safari.

Top tips: Namib Desert
  - No malaria risk, but it can get hot (30°C+)
  - Drive yourself, join a tour or book a fly-in safari
  - Namib lodges are pricey, but you can camp at Sesriem or stay at good-value guest houses

Where can I zoom down a dune?
Once you’ve relaxed in Swakopmund for a day or two, you’ll be wanting to hit the adventure trail again. Try NamibFun (www.namibfun.com.na) at the tourist office for a one-stop shop to everything from sky diving and paragliding to sandboarding and kayaking.
If you book just one activity in Swakopmund, however, make sure it’s a 4WD outing to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours (www.turnstone-tours.com). Their guides not only know the ecology and history of the Skeleton Coast intimately (and are great at engaging children of all ages), but their driving skills will transform your daytrip into one long thrill ride. Hemmed in by towering dunes on one side and ocean breakers on the other, you’ll find yourself racing the incoming tide along a beach riddled with quicksand and the occasional corpse of a turtle or seabird.
As well as tracking jackals and spotting seals, the undisputed highlight of the trip is the ‘singing dunes’. Riding the rollercoaster of the desert, your guide will cut the engine and let the Land Rover slide down the scarp slope of a particularly huge dune. As sand starts to avalanche and resonate beneath its wheels the desert hums. It’s a magical, surreal experience. Don’t forget to get out and try it on your bottom!

South Africa: Following the rainbow
Give Africa a good shake, leave to stand a while and let all the best bits settle at the bottom. It’s almost as if South Africa has distilled everything that is thrilling and remarkable about the continent. You might find wilder national parks in Zambia, the wildebeest migration in Tanzania or emptier roads in Namibia, but the Rainbow Nation’s irresistible lure lies in its sheer diversity. You’ve got Cape Town – right up there with other urban beauties like Sydney and Vancouver. You’ve got vast swathes of wilderness, stunning wildlife, superb food, great places to stay, and, best of all for families, you’ve got plenty to keep you busy. Boredom simply is not an option – not in a country where, in the same day, you can stand on top of Table Mountain, swim with wild penguins and then tuck into a plate of good old-fashioned fish and chips.

Top tips: Cape Town
  - Flights from European cities to Cape Town take around 10-11 hours, but most of them are direct, you’ll arrive early morning and only have to adjust to GMT+2
  - Collect a rental car at the airport and drive yourself around or book organised tours
  - Accommodation ranges from budget hostels to luxury hotels
  - The best beaches are at Clifton and Camp’s Bay – but be warned: the water’s chilly!

Where can I see the Big Five and avoid malaria?
To put it bluntly, money and malaria are the main deciding factors when it comes to choosing a family safari in South Africa. Stick to malaria-free zones and your choice is limited mainly to the Eastern Cape and a handful of game reserves northwest of Johannesburg, such as Madikwe. Feels a bit like drawing the short straw? Don’t believe it. Kruger National Park may be big and famous, but that doesn’t mean you’ll see less or have a ‘tamer’ experience in smaller, malaria-free reserves like Shamwari and Kwandwe. These, and other Eastern Cape reserves, not only boast the Big Five – elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo and leopard – but a wide range of other large mammals, such as giraffe, cheetah and zebra.

Options for all ages
Babies (0-18 months)
Think very hard before taking children aged four and under to malarious parts of Africa. If they have older siblings who are desperate to go on safari, remember that parts of South Africa have malaria-free game reserves where you can spot big game. The safest, most relaxing and affordable way to visit South Africa with babies is to split your time between Cape Town and the Garden Route, staying in comfortable hotels or guesthouses with babysitting services. If you are set on something more adventurous, consider a guided, mule-supported trek in Morocco. A pre-crawling-stage baby in a papoose is a wonderfully portable thing, while breast-fed babies have a safe and readily available food, even in remote places like the Atlas Mountains. However, be sure to take every precaution to protect your infant from the sun, and visit during autumn or spring to avoid the worst of the heat.

Toddlers (18 months-4 years)
Sub-Saharan Africa is one of the world’s highest-risk areas for malaria, so most families restrict their travels to South Africa’s Cape provinces and parts of North Africa. As babies evolve from nappy-bound blobs to mobile mini-explorers they inevitably encounter more in the way of germs and accidents. With hygiene and safety coming to the fore you may be further put off from visiting Africa. Don’t be. In addition to the Cape and Morocco, another non-malarial place you should consider is Namibia. Following the initial shock and stress of early parenthood, a self-drive campervan tour of Namibia is a great holiday choice for families with toddlers. Not only does your campervan function as a self-contained bedroom, playroom and kitchen, but the Namib Desert will seem like one giant sandpit.

School age (4-12 years)
At this age, Africa starts to sound really exciting. Most four-year-olds will have seen The Lion King and you may already have taken them to see Timon and Pumba at Disneyland. Now is the time to bring the wilds of Africa to life – warthogs and all! You have two main options when it comes to family safaris – lodge-based or camping. For safety reasons, children usually need to be near the upper end of this age category for camping safaris, while many of the more exclusive lodges also have strict minimum age limits (some as high as 12 years). That’s not to say you won’t find family-friendly safari accommodation. Far from it.
Both East and southern Africa have several excellent camps and lodges where children are specially catered for with activities ranging from guided bush tracking to poo identification (always a hit with youngsters). Egypt is another excellent family destination for children who have reached school age. Ancient Egypt usually features on the curriculum around the age of seven or eight, so this is an ideal time for a tour of the Nile Valley using a combination of traditional sailing felucca, sleeper train and camel. Other cultural hotspots to aim for include Zanzibar and Lamu on the East African coast. These ancient Swahili settlements make perfect add-ons to safaris in Tanzania or Kenya.

Teenagers (13 years+)
Seen one lion, seen ‘em all. Looks like a pile of rocks (yawn). If these are the kinds of reaction you get when trying to convince your teenager of the merits of a safari or Egyptian tour, perhaps you need to think about upping the pace (and pulse) a little. Africa has several adventure ‘capitals’ with more than enough adrenalin-charged activities to lure teenagers from their iPods, Nintendos and mobile phones. Top of the list has to be Victoria Falls, where you can bungee jump, ride elephants, fly in a microlight and raft some of the world’s wildest water. Don’t be put off by the political turmoil affecting Zimbabwe. Livingstone on the Zambian side of the Falls now has an excellent range of accommodation and tour operators.
Other adventure hotspots include Swakopmund in Namibia (for desert sandboarding, kayaking with seals and 4WD tours along the Skeleton Coast), Cape Town (for great white shark encounters, surfing and abseiling off Table Mountain) and South Africa’s Drakensburg Mountains (for hiking, horse riding, rafting and paragliding). Alternatively, why not set your teenager a single, big challenge, such as learning how to scuba dive in the Red Sea, catch a tiger fish on Lake Malawi or joining a Young Rangers’ Club in Kenya. There are also plenty of opportunities for getting off-the-beaten-track in places like Zambia’s South Luangwa Valley.
If, however, your teenagers have reached that delightful stage in life where they are embarrassed simply by the mere presence of their parents, you could always consider an overland expedition where they bring along a friend or two. These long-distance journeys are a great way to get under the skin of Africa, see lots of different countries and pick up some lessons in independence along the way.

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