Ready to lap it up? The best of the west

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While thousands continue to flock to the fêted northern safari circuit and the powdery white beaches of Zanzibar, the world-class destinations of western Tanzania are still being virtually overlooked. Mary Fitzpatrick, author of Lonely Planet’s Tanzania guidebook, takes an inspirational look into the region’s top spots and gives some practical itinerary advice. So, when will you reward yourself with an adventurous journey into the wild west? Shaded forest paths echo with the hooting of chimpanzees. Lush mountains rise steeply from idyllic sandy beaches along the world’s longest lake. Fish eagles circle over a forest-clad island. Sitatunga peek through reeds. Huge herds of buffalo roam vast inland floodplains. Pods of up to 200 hippos push against each other in muddy riverbeds. Like the sound of western Tanzania so far? Now add a palpable frontier feel from the handful of historic old towns, which date to the days of the old trading caravans to the interior, and from the isolated lakeshore villages that still rely on the venerable MV Liemba, a former steamship that has plied Lake Tanganyika’s waters since 1915, and you’ll truly start to understand the allure of the region. With an appealing mix of luxury and overland travel possibilities now available, there has never been a better time to take in Tanzania’s west. The major highlights – Rubondo Island, Mahale Mountains, Gombe Stream, Katavi and Ruaha National Parks and Lake Tanganyika – can be visited as stops on a western loop using a combination of overland travel options or charter flights. Alternatively, visit them as stand-alone destinations or as add-ons to travel elsewhere in the country. Rubondo, for example, is easily linked onto the classic northern safari circuit that includes Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti, while Ruaha has easy connections eastwards to the southern safari circuit’s Selous Game Reserve. If you’re travelling on a budget and have time to spare, the western circuit can be done overland by bus, boat and rail. Those with more money than time can make the links with charter flights. This is a wild region, and not the most straightforward of destinations, but I imagine those coming here to find an adventurous edge, unique attractions and an almost complete lack of other visitors, wouldn’t have it any other way. Ruaha National Park Ruaha, Tanzania’s second-largest park, is traditionally part of the country’s southern safari circuit. However, it can easily be (and is increasingly) paired with Katavi and Mahale as part of a western-oriented loop. The landscape, which is marked by isolated hills, dry woodlands and stretches of riparian forest dotted with enormous baobabs, has a distinct ruggedness and aridity, even when the January to May rains soften its bare ridges with a profusion of flowers and greenery. Yet it’s undeniably evocative, with an almost irresistible pull to return again and again. The park’s heart is the Great Ruaha river, which flows down from the Usangu wetlands and meanders (or trickles, depending on the season) its way 160km along the southeastern edge of the park. Strewn with boulders and dotted with hippo, its sandy embankments are often pictured with a crocodile sunning itself or an elephant wandering down to the water’s edge. During the dry season, the riverbed’s few remaining pools acts as a magnet to an impressive amount of wildlife. The elephant population here is ranked as the country’s largest, and there are also sizeable populations of buffalo, zebra, giraffe and numerous antelope species. Because Ruaha lies in an ecological transition zone, it hosts both East and southern African species, including greater and lesser kudu, sable and roan antelope and Grant’s gazelle. Lions are abundant, and are generally easily spotted, as are hyenas. Together with the Selous, Ruaha is also one of the last strongholds of the African hunting dog. Katavi National Park Katabi, the hunter-spirit for whom Tanzania’s third-largest park is named, seems to be protecting his territory well – Katavi’s seasonal floodplains teem with thousands of buffalo, and enormous concentrations of hippo fill the riverbeds. Sable and roan antelope wander through the woodlands and elephants forage in the bush. Amazingly, there’s only a trickle of visitors. Most of the action in the park takes place on the vast floodplains spreading out from the Katuma river, especially near the seasonal lakes of Chada and Katavi. Prime season is normally from around July through October, when the plains dry out and large numbers of animals make their way to the remaining water pools. Finding pods of several hundred hippos fighting each other for space in the diminishing lakebeds is commonplace. In addition to this, there are also 1000-strong herds of buffalo. Your chances of seeing lions in action along with their support cast of zebra and giraffe are also exceptionally good. Once the short rains begin around November, the wildlife starts to disperse. However, there is still an abundance of animals spread over the plains, such as the elephants whose herds sometimes number in the hundreds. The wild savannah backdrop, which is only broken by isolated stands of palm, tamarind and fig trees, is always great for birding during the green season. During the heaviest rains from March through May, much of the area is inaccessible and the camps are closed. Katavi (like much of the rest of western Tanzania) isn’t for everyone. Getting to the park, although straightforward, can seem like an expedition if travelling overland. The easy (read pricey) option is a charter flight. Once here, conditions are anything but pampered. Large animals in the camps are a frequent occurrence, as are mosquitoes and other insects, and the road network is for the most part little more than indistinguishable tracks. But the park’s enormous size, untrammelled nature and high wildlife concentrations make it one of the most dramatic safari destinations available anywhere today. To subscribe or buy back issues, click here  Lake Tanganyika This long, very deep slice of blue that hugs the steep walls of the western Rift is the sparkling sapphire in western Tanzania’s crown. It’s a lovely sight, especially if you’ve been slogging across the hinterlands to get here. Verdant mountains cascade down to clear waters that host over 500 species of fish  – the world’s second-deepest lake is considered to have the richest biodiversity in the entire Rift system. The backdrop of Congo’s mountains in the distance seems to add another dimension and richness to each evening’s sunset. Once dark, hundreds of lanterns flicker offshore as local fishermen work to attract shoals of tiny dagaa fish to the lake’s surface, where they can then scoop them up with their nets. Lake Tanganyika’s lifeline – for travellers and locals – is the historic MV Liemba, which has been steaming up and down the lake almost continuously for 90 years, packed with passengers and produce. It starts in the peppy port town of Kigoma, which is notably green, with a profusion of banana trees, palms and panoramic waterside views. From here it sails south past Ujiji (of “Dr Livingstone, I presume” fame) and calls in at a string of isolated villages, only a few of which are connected to the rest of the country by dry-weather tracks. One such village is Kalema, the site of an old Belgian fort and an early mission station. Kipili is another that was an old mission station – it’s now the springboard to plush new getaways on the islands of Ntanga and Lupita. Kasanga, which is the MV Liemba’s last stop in Tanzania, was formerly the German district headquarters town of Bismarckburg. Heading east, the lake’s main artery is the railway line to Tabora. With its mango-lined avenues, the delightfully-restored Railway Hotel and the nearby tembe where Livingstone stayed in 1872 after being ‘found’ by Stanley in Ujiji, it makes another worthwhile stop for anyone travelling overland through western Tanzania. Mahale Mountains National Park Chimpanzees are one of this national park’s hallmarks. Joining them are crystal clear waters, waves lapping on the sandy shoreline and lush mountains rising into the skies above. Mahale is easily one of Tanzania’s most beautiful protected areas. And it rivals Gombe Stream National Park (to the north) as the best place on the continent for up-close encounters with our primate cousins. The 1613-square-kilometre park was initially gazetted to protect its chimpanzee population, which is currently estimated to number somewhere around 1000. Yet, unlike Gombe, where the chimps are almost the exclusive focal point, some of the most memorable experiences here have to do with the stunning, remote lakeshore setting. After a sweaty, strenuous morning tracking chimps, swim, cruise or simply relax on the beach and take in the views of the rugged topography. Looking inland, there is a series of densely vegetated ridges dominated by the 2462m Mount Nkungwe. As in Gombe, Mahale’s chimps have been the subjects of research for over four decades, and the 70 or so habituated individuals in the Mimikere community are the main focus of tourism. However, because of the park’s much larger area and steep slopes, finding the chimps here is even harder work – expect plenty of mud and insect bites. Encounters, while likely during a three or four day visit, are not assured. Following a recent outbreak of human influenza virus among Mahale’s chimpanzees, park officials require all visitors to wear surgical-style masks while trekking. It’s not permitted to approach closer than within 10m of the chimps, and visitor contact time is limited to one hour. Gombe Stream National Park Imagine a canopy of trees arching overhead, shafts of sunlight filtering through the dense foliage, twisted roots winding over the forest floor and, suddenly, chimpanzees becoming visible in a clearing ahead – this is Gombe Stream, the site where Jane Goodall began her pioneering research over 40 years ago. Ongoing studies, combined with providing visitors unparalleled opportunities to observe chimpanzees in the wild, continue to be its lifeblood. Gombe’s chimpanzee population – currently estimated at about 90 to 100, down from approximately 150 when Goodall began her work – is divided into three communities. The central Kasekela community is the main subject of both research and visitor attention. Although chances of an encounter are almost guaranteed, finding the chimps can involve some strenuous walking up steep slopes – they are surprisingly hard to find, despite the relatively limited area. Visitor numbers to the park are low, generally less than 1000 per year – this helps the reduces the chance of humans passing on diseases to the chimps. Given their similar genetic make-up to humans, they are susceptible to many of our illnesses and they sadly often lack our immunity. In addition to the chimpanzees, Gombe is also intriguing for its scenery and other wildlife. Over a dozen rivers and streams lace the park, flowing down through sometimes steep valleys from Rift escarpment. These include the eponymous Gombe, and Kakombe, which terminates in a long, narrow waterfall within walking distance of the Kasekela feeding station. Away from the belts of cool, dark forest lining the river valleys, much of the remaining park is covered in dry forest, and at higher elevations, open woodland. It’s possible to hike up the escarpment, including to ‘Jane’s peak’, Goodall’s early perch for observing the chimps. The shoreline is a fine spot for seeing some of Gombe’s 250 butterfly species, and also offers the chance of spotting palm-nut vultures. Other primates in the park include a large population of olive baboons, plus red colobus, red-tail, blue and vervet monkeys. Rubondo Island National Park Lush Rubondo – tucked away in the southwestern corner of Lake Victoria – is humming with life. In the humid evergreen forest that covers most of the island, butterflies flit among dense tangles of vines. Fireball lilies, with their brilliant and short-lived profusion of petals, peer out from among the foliage on the forest floor, together with orchids and other wildflowers. Along the shoreline, spotted-necked otters look for fish, large crocodiles sun themselves, hippos amble near the park’s sole lodge and thousands upon thousands of birds perch on the rocks on a tiny islet nearby. Meaty Nile perch swim, waiting to be hooked, while African fish eagles – the park is considered to have East Africa’s greatest concentration – circle overhead. Despite these attractions, and being neither remote nor difficult to reach (unlike much of the rest of the west), Rubondo is one of the least visited parks in Tanzania. True, it lacks the drama of the Serengeti and some other of the country’s more popular parks. But, it’s a unique and exceptionally tranquil spot, with fine birding and angling, low-key wildlife watching and the chance for immersion in the surrounding nature. The park, which consists of Rubondo Island plus a handful of surrounding islets, was gazetted in 1977. Prior to this it became the focus of a partially successful attempt spearheaded by Bernhard Grzimek in the 1960s to turn it into a sanctuary for various endangered species. Seventeen chimpanzees were brought to the island – all taken from captivity – together with elephants, black-and-white colobus monkeys, giraffes and even a few black rhinos. The rhino population didn’t fare well, but the chimpanzees adapted to their new home, and have since roughly doubled in number. Chimp tracking is possible on Rubondo, although the populations here aren’t particularly habituated, and both the frequency and the quality of encounters are much lower than in Gombe or Mahale. The elephants have also done reasonably well, and telltale signs of the island’s approximately 40-strong population abound, although the behemoths themselves are surprisingly difficult to spot. More rewarding is seeking out the normally elusive sitatunga – perhaps the most well known of Rubondo’s indigenous species, and more easily spotted here than almost anywhere else in East Africa.

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