Kenyan Voices

Buy...

With some of the world’s top wildlife attractions, and a longstanding reputation as Africa’s bastion of political stability, Kenya has rightly been one of the continent’s most visited countries for decades. However, the recent post-election meltdown and the mass of adverse publicity surrounding it, wrongly painting the entire nation with the same chaotic brush, is having a catastrophic affect on the Kenya’s image and its tourism industry. With most of the nation’s attractions sitting hundreds of kilometres from any of the areas where problems occurred during the outbreaks, we decided to send Mark Stratton to Nairobi and to some of Kenya’s top safari destinations: Borana Ranch, Ol Malo and Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, all on the Laikipia Plateau; Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge, between Amboseli and Tsavo in the Chyulu Hills; and the Olare Orok Conservancy’s Porini Lion Camp, on the edge of the Masai Mara.  We’d personally like to thank Chris Flat of Bush and Beyond for all his help organising the trip, and SafariLink and Tropic Air for providing transfers. While we could trumpet his trouble-free experience and scream from the rooftops that the same world-class wildlife, the same infectious friendliness and the same breathtaking landscapes of Kenya are still out there and safe to visit, we’ve chosen not to. Instead, we want you to hear the voices of Kenyans – not talking of politics, but rather speaking of their passion for their country, and its tourism. They’d love to be heard. Stephen Tobiko Kabaala, Guide, Porini Lion Camp, Olare Orok Conservancy “Sometimes in the main section of the Mara there can be five lions followed by 20 jeeps,” he laughs, “but in Olare Orok you’re guaranteed a private show.” Sure enough, I was soon watching (in blissful solitude) three spread-eagled male lions basking in the sun. “The lions are most happy during the mass-migrations when the whole plain turns black with wildebeest,” says Stephen. He’s sure such awe-inspiring spectacles will woo back the tourists. Does he ever feel l ike a tourist curio? “Maybe I’ll wear jeans if I go to Nairobi,” he confesses, “but I am proud to maintain Maasai culture and have no problems if visitors want to photograph me wearing my shuka and holding my spear.” Robert Parmuat, Wildlife Ranger, Narok County Council, Masai Mara Reserve “Sometimes it’s my job to scare elephants off the runway with my whistle,” says 24-year-old Robert, as we chat by Olkiombo Airstrip. Robert, dressed in paramilitary fatigues, provides security for the Narok sector of Masai Mara Reserve. “We have very few problems with poachers,” he adds. Before the drop in tourism, were there too many tourists in Reserve? “The Masai Mara can seem busy at times and fewer visitors may help alleviate the pressures this causes,” he responds thoughtfully, “but we need tourism revenues to protect both the wildlife and jobs like mine.” Michael Dyer, Owner, Borana Ranch “Last year I visited a game park in India and had to walk an hour just to see a herd of elephants,” says ranch-owner Michael. “Here, there is such great diversity literally falling over our doorstep.” With his wife Nicky, the 46-year-old has converted his 40,000 acre Laikipia cattle-ranch into a wildlife sanctuary. He branched into tourism in the 1990s, building Borana’s luxurious hillside lodge. Despite losing 50 per cent of his revenue during January, he remains passionately committed to passing on tourism’s benefits to neighbouring local communities. Borana’s guests have helped fund projects such as primary school classrooms and kitchens and a mobile clinic. “Getting the local community engaged in wildlife tourism has been testing, but we won’t withdraw from this process because of a lack of visitors – we’re joined at the hip now,” he says. Best wildlife encounter: “I once watched a young bull elephant here accidentally slide for twenty or so yards down a muddy slope on his bum. He then climbed back up and pushed his mates down the slope! They played like this for half an hour. You could come to Kenya all your life and never see that happen again.” Full articles from the current edition are not available online. To subscribe or buy back issues, click here  Samuel Mwangi Leatherworker, Borana Ranch “I like making boots but I’m not so good at hats,” confesses 32-year-old Samuel, seated at his sewing machine amid mountains of merino sheep wool. Like his fellow workers, he’s also a polio victim. Samuel has worked for 12 years at the cottage factory supported by Borana Ranch. Samuel is also Kikuyu – the tribe who were the focus for much of Kenya’s post-election violence. “Here,” he insists, “we are all different tribes: Meru, Turkana... But we are all friends and feel bad about what has happened elsewhere.” Worried about the future? “I’m worried if no visitors come,” he says shyly. Grace Wanjiku Manager, Ol Malo House, Ol Malo “Tourism boosts the conservation of wildlife and creates jobs for the local Samburu.” Of its individually-themed rooms in the luxurious Ol Malo House, the Crocodile-suite is her favourite – with an extravagant wooden carving of a croc wrapped around the bathtub. The animal she most associates with? “A lion. I’m from a family of brothers and I manage many male staff, so my heart is like that of a lion… I don’t fear anything.” Kaymushu Kiama Assistant-Manager, Lewa Wilderness Trails “Lewa is the place to see rhinos. We have over 90 in total, both black and white. There are also three male cheetahs that are so large they’ve been known to bring down ostriches! Where else are you going to see that?” In eight years Kaymushu has progressed from trainee guide to assistant manager of Wilderness Trails. “Certainly our visitors like seeing me wearing tribal dress, but I’m also very proud of my culture,” insists Kaymushu. “Although I might slip on Western clothes in a Meru town, as we Maasai have a reputation for stealing cattle,” he laughs. His personal experience with the post election troubles? “The lack of tourists is having a knock-on affect upon the villages and local communities. The women cannot bring their beadwork to sell as souvenirs and we’re buying less local beef and lamb, which is causing prices (and incomes) to go down.” Anthony Nzaka Chef, Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge “There’s nothing better than fresh snapper served with coconut rice and beans” After 20 years of preparing food for tourists Anthony still prefers African food, in particular the coast’s fresh seafood. No wonder – he was raised in Kilifi on the shores of the Indian Ocean. David Saab Security guard and herdsman, Ol Donyo Wuas “I’ve learned to speak English by talking with tourists and this has helped me to develop,” says David. I met David wearing traditional Maasai garb when visiting his family boma. When I saw him later in his security-guard uniform back at Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge, I scarcely recognised him. He praises an initiative pioneered by the lodge’s owner known as the predator conservation fund. It compensates Maasai for livestock losses to wild predators and has cut lion killings dramatically. “Now if lions kill my livestock, I have no problem because I will be paid. This has allowed us to learn to live with their presence.” But as both herder and security guard, is he not afraid of lions? “Yes,” he replies, “but if the lions are hungry they will eat my sheep or cattle first”. Sissa Faull Trainee Guide “There’s so much more to Kenya than the Big Five.” She particularly loves the lynx-like caracal. “They’re much rarer than lions so it’s exciting to find one.” Recently out of college after studying field-guiding in South Africa, Sissa, a native Northern Kenyan, was on a trial period at Ol Donyo Wuas. Is Kenya’s reputation tarnished for good? “Absolutely not. Kenyans just want to get on as they did before. We’re a very happy and optimistic people and ultimately nothing will get in the way of that.” Nayieleng Jewellery-seller, Mbrikani Ranch What does Nayieleng think of tourists? “Some look funny to us,” she giggles, “ladies wearing trousers look very awkward.” Despite being the chief’s second wife, she makes her living by making and selling beautiful Maasai beadwork to tourists. Chief Lekartiwa Ljalan Samburu headman “I don’t remember how old I am,” says the headman of a Samburu manyatta, “maybe 68”. He does recall having five wives and 30 children. On the edge of Samburuland, guests from Ol Malo visit his village to watch young Samburu warriors dance. Does he mind tourists visiting? “We like them coming here. Our women sell beadwork to guests and our children get food at the school supported by the lodge.” Jamie Roberts Pilot and owner of Tropic Air His voice crackles over the intercom as we buzz three rhinos in his replica 1935 American biplane. “Sometimes clients yell ‘Stop, Stop!’ when they want to see something, forgetting they’re not in a car”. He’s soon launching aerial game viewings in the Masai Mara. “It’s a great time to visit because the Mara’s virtually empty,” he observes wryly. His favourite flight? “Kenya’s scenery changes so quickly, it’s like flicking through pages of a coffee-table book. But I love the Suguta Valley – it’s so pretty, with dramatic cliffs, desert, and sand dunes.” James Seki Guide, Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge “Local tradition says if you see an aardvark in daylight, you’ll live to be 100.” James Seki can expect a long life. A Maasai with seven years of guiding experience, James takes Ol Donyo Wuas’ clientele around the surrounding 300,000 acres of Mbirikani Ranch. “The lodge, run by Richard Bonham Safaris, has helped raise local income levels and addressed issues like overgrazing, which has delivered benefits to wildlife,” he tells me. Most memorable sighting: “One evening guests were dining near the swimming pool when they heard slurping. Someone shone a torch and a leopard was enjoying a drink.” Paul Mundati Driver and owner, Manyatta Trails, Nairobi “Driving here was like paradise during the troubles as there was no traffic on the road,” he smiles sarcastically. His business, ferrying visitors between airports or taking them on country-wide safaris, is currently down 80 per cent. “Since the unrest some clients have asked me to drive them to Jamhuri Park so that they can make donations to the internally displaced persons” Current work week: “Now that my drivers are sitting idle, I have more time to play golf. When I was busy, I’d work 17 hours each day, seven days per week.” Geeta Manek Director, Market Ways Supermarket, Nairobi “I’m a 4th generation Kenyan. My forebears were Gujarati traders who served the white settlers in the Highlands.” Despite her business suffering of late, as it supplies many lodges with provisions, she has no intention on giving up on Kenya. “This country is paradise. It has the best beaches in the world and our safari lodges are such fantastic value.” Above all, she enthuses, “Kenyans are the warmest people in Africa.” Colin Francombe Owner, Ol Malo “My daughter in Nairobi watched an international television crew throw sweets into a mob of children to get them screaming,” says an exasperated Colin. “The crisis was badly misreported and gave the impression all of Kenya was affected.” From the veranda of the cliff-top lodge built in northern Laikipia by Colin and his wife Rocky, several elephants can be seen drinking from a waterhole where that morning I’d seen leopard. Local effects of the election fallout? Fewer tourists means that his daughter’s Ol Malo Charitable Trust, which sponsors projects like a mobile clinic treating trachoma, is now under-funded. “We’ve also had to send one-third of our local staff on unpaid leave,” Colin notes. Looking ahead: “I think Kenya’s reputation will heal quickly, yet this should be a wake-up call for our politicians. They have to realise they must look after people other than themselves.” John Kibanya Taxi Driver, Nairobi “Now the city is back to normal, so there is nothing to make visitors afraid of coming to visit Nairobi,” he says. During the troubles in January he stayed at home because police had blockaded his route into the city.

< Previous		Next >