While the natural bounty beneath South Africa’s waters is as rich as any found on shore, only a fraction of tourists focus their attention away from the famed safari parks and reserves for a look into the deep blue. As Helen Turnbull explains, the rewards of doing so are vast.
 Along the Western Cape’s popular Garden Route there is another Big Five, one whose species lurk in the depths. Few visitors are aware that this additional all-star list of creatures exist here, and as such most of them have simply travelled to South Africa to try to lay eyes on the traditional big players in the safari circuit: lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo. And with first time travellers usually overwhelmed by the choice of things to do – in terms of wildlife, culture and natural scenery, the country is richly diverse – they usually only discover these aquatic species by chance. But it is these unexpected encounters that often leave the most enduring memories.
South Africa is one of only two countries in the world where southern right whales, great white sharks, penguins, dolphins and seals can be seen along one stretch of coastline. It is these impressive, entertaining species that are now being recognised as the aquatic Big Five. While they hold great commercial value for the country’s tourism, they may, more importantly, pave the way for conservation of the marine environment.
Southern right whales are already one of conservations success stories, and populations have increased steadily each year due to the worldwide ban on commercial hunting. Historically these whales were the ‘right’ whales to hunt, as they spend considerable time on the surface of the water, which made them easy targets. Now this high visibility has become a marketing advantage.
The whales start arriving here in June as part of their annual migration. Their arduous journey from Antarctica has only one main goal – reproduction. The young are born in the shallow waters of the Cape coast, where the mothers then nurse and train their calves, building up their stamina and strength for the long journey back home in December. The sheltered bays provide a safe haven for the whales, and a rare opportunity to see these animals up close.
The route, which hugs the coast from Cape Point to Simon’s Town, to Fish Hoek and beyond, sees both locals and visitors alike parking their vehicles at the kerbside to marvel at the leviathan activities. To be able to watch whales at play from the side of the road is what makes South Africa such an attractive whale-watching destination. Hermanus, a town 150km east of Cape Town, provides the world’s best up-close-and-personal whale experiences while on dry land. Though it is undoubtedly a great spot to get a good view of the whales, it is easy to find more picturesque and less commercial places a little further up the coast.
Sightings of southern right whales easily outnumber those of other whale species along the Garden Route, but Bryde’s whales and humpbacks cruise through occasionally, partnering with prevailing currents. Plettenberg Bay is a regular stop for a pod of orcas.
Although Gansbaai is one place that you can take a cruise to see all of the aquatic Big Five, it is best known for great white sharks. These apex predators are attracted there for one reason – good food. Seven kilometres off shore, based on a small landmass known as Geyser Rock, is a healthy population of over 6000 Cape fur seals, the favoured meal of great whites. Between Geyser Rock and the nearby bird sanctuary of Dyer Island is ‘Shark Alley’, a section of water that is patrolled by high concentrations of great whites from April through October. The growing consumer demand to see these animals in a safe environment has lead to the establishment of an increasingly popular tourism experience – shark cage diving. Not without controversy, this industry actually plays a vital role, by providing an educational insight into the complex behaviour of great whites in their natural state.
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Highly skilled and efficient hunters, sharks are one of the oldest and most sophisticated creatures in our oceans. However, they are not naturally aggressive to humans, and are in reality cautious and extremely curious. Without hands to feel, they must open their mouths to pick up scent trails in specialised skin cells around the nose. This act is often misinterpreted as sizing up a potential snack. Sharks’ dorsal fins all have fine indentations along their edge, which are as unique to them as fingerprints are to us. Their bodies are streamlined and aerodynamic in profile, needing little effort to reach high speeds quickly, and its overall efficiency has made a significant contribution to modern submarine design.
While we may dislike them, sharks are vital members of the food chain, maintaining the equilibrium of delicate marine ecosystems. Although 201 shark species are listed as endangered, great whites are the only one officially protected in South African waters. It’s estimated that over one hundred million sharks are being killed illegally across the planet each year to feed the Asian fin industry.
Penguins are certainly considered more ‘cuddly’ when it comes to their image. Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town is great day trip from Cape Town. Here it is possible to share the beach or even sunbathe with penguins. They carry on with their day-to-day business, happy to share their living space. It is a rare privilege to observe these flightless birds at such close quarters, and it is fascinating to compare their uneasy gait on land to their incredible speed and agility in water. Scientists have recently discovered that the spotted pattern on each African penguin’s chest is unique – take the opportunity at Boulders to try and spot the differences. More penguin colonies are found along the coast on outlying islands, but it is only at Boulders Beach where such dynamic human interaction is possible.
The African penguin population has collapsed from 1.5 million in 1910 to less than 200,000 today. Uncontrolled harvesting of penguin eggs as a source of food and guano mining, which removed their burrowing material and disrupted their habit, were believed to be the main culprits. Today, rising temperatures are also thought to be a concern. Boulders beach became the new home for a community of penguins who adapted themselves to using sand as a new nesting medium. It was a natural evolution that at this stage appears to be working well.
The playful antics of seals delight any crowd, and South African fur seals certainly get around. At Cape Town’s Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, seals have made themselves at home swimming leisurely between the boats or relaxing on the wooden jetties oblivious to the frantic human activity around them.
There are numerous boat trips available to view seal colonies along the coast, and once outside the harbour walls, the ocean regains its natural clarity. In some areas around Cape Town it is also possible to dive with seals in the coastal kelp forests, but it does carry with it the slight risk of motion sickness. The hypnotic swaying kelp, combined with the low gravitational situation of diving has been known to turn stomachs. Nonetheless, it is a fantastic experience.
Pods of dolphins are always on the move along the coast. Around Plettenberg Bay, they are present in larger numbers due to the warmer waters of the Indian Ocean. One of the most pleasurable ways to see them is to take a drive out to Keurbooms Beach, some 20 minutes east of the bay. Between 4.30 pm and 5.30pm, as the sun dips in the sky, dolphins travel in large numbers back and forth through the surf – it is a spectacular display of acrobatics. As with the rest of the aquatic Big Five, the best time for viewing is May through December. Lucky you – this is a more affordable time to visit as it falls outside the main holiday season.
Sixty per cent of our planet is covered in water, yet it is incredible to think that we know so little about what goes on in our oceans. Now, more than ever, there is reason to enjoy the spectacular marine wildlife around us. The animals are just as fascinating and important as any found on a traditional safari. The marine tourism industry provides a vital lifeline, helping to raise awareness about a world that needs our protection.
As Baba Dioum, the Senegalese philosopher, said: “In the end we will conserve only what we love, we will love only what we understand, and we will understand only what we are taught”.
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