Edition 42: Spring 2008

In previous Gone birding columns, we’ve taken a look at some of the most exciting destinations in Africa for birdwatchers. Now, in this new series, Duncan Butchart singles out some of the continent’s most charismatic and enticing birds, and tells you where to find them.

With its huge bulbous bill and baleful yellow-eyed stare, the shoebill is a remarkably striking bird with a certain prehistoric look. Its head actually bears a superficial resemblance to that of the extinct dodo, and its Latin name translates to king whalehead. While standing at 1.2m in height and sharing attributes with both storks and herons, the shoebill may actually be more closely related to pelicans or the widespread hamerkop.

A denizen of extensive freshwater marshlands north of the equator, the shoebill lives alone in widely-spaced pairs. Individuals are most often seen standing motionless or stepping stealthily (aided by exceptionally long toes) over rafts of floating vegetation. They spend most of the day hunting in this fashion, capturing fish – including lungfish and tilapia – frogs, young turtles and nestling birds. This patient ‘wait and strike’ approach culminates in a rapid pickaxe movement in which the shoebill collapses, bringing its full weight onto the prey.

As the breeding season approaches, the male and female engage in a bill-clacking courtship before mating and constructing a nest. Like many other large birds, it’s common that pairs remain faithful to one another for long periods, perhaps even for life. The nest is a platform of broken reeds and other aquatic vegetation set on a floating island of compacted material. Two eggs typically are laid, with both partners taking turns incubating them. After about a month of this attention, two silvery-brown chicks emerge. Sadly, due to predation and food availability it is unusual for both to survive the full breeding cycle.

Quite why the shoebill’s bill is so large has been the topic of much conjecture among ornithologists. Size of fish prey alone cannot be the answer, for large herons and storks (with more traditional pointed bills) are capable of catching and swallowing equally large fish, although they rarely capture lungfishes. Perhaps the need for adults to douse their exposed eggs and nestlings with copious quantities of water – scooped up and delivered by the bill – is partly responsible. The upper bill has a formidable nail-like tip, which is used to impale and grasp slippery prey.

It’s thought that approximately 10,000 shoebill survive, with perhaps half of this population in the great White Nile Sudd of southern Sudan. This vast wilderness’ entire ecosystem could be destroyed by the Jonglei Canal Scheme, which aims to channel water through the wetland without allowing it to spread out and slowly evaporate. Current unrest in Sudan has put this project on hold. Botswana’s Okavango Delta appears to offer ideal shoebill habitat, but these wondrous birds do not occur that far south on the continent.

Five places to see a shoebill
1. The southern fringe of Lake Albert, in eastern Uganda, adjoins the Semliki Valley Game Reserve. A stay at the elegant Semliki Safari Lodge provides an amazing opportunity to visit the lakeshore and be boated into the marshlands by local guides. www.safariuganda.com

2. Bangweulu Swamps is situated in the Congo basin of northern Zambia. This is one of the world’s great wetlands and a large population of shoebill exists – the best viewing is from March to July. The aptly named Shoebill Island Camp is the ideal place to stay. www.kasanka.com

3. Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is where the Nile River enters Lake Albert before heading north into Sudan. The comfortable Nile Safari Camp on the banks of the great river arranges guided boat cruises, which frequently encounter shoebill.

4. Mabamba swamp is an accessible wetland on the shores of Lake Victoria less than 100km east of Kampala. Travellers with little time on their hands can travel independently to the village of Mabamba and hire a local guide to search for shoebill. www.aboutuganda.com/birding

5. The Moyowosi-Kigosi Swamp in southeastern Tanzania is home to a significant population of shoebill in the vast and complex floodplain in the basin of the Malagalasi River. No formal tourist facilities exist in this region, making it of interest to the more intrepid traveller.

Expert advice
Birds that are actively nesting should be left well alone, whereas individuals hunting or feeding close to waterways make ideal subjects for a closer approach. Paddling a quiet boat, or viewing through a telescope from a platform tower are ideal.