Few places have the ability to conjure mystery and intrigue simply by the mention of a name. Yet even before I had visited Madagascar for the first time over a decade ago, Ankarana was such a place. I'd read books and reports telling of a bizarre wonderland, cut-off from the outside world and harbouring unquantifiable numbers of amazing and undiscovered natural treasures.

Situated at the island's northern extremity, Ankarana's remoteness made it a difficult place to reach back then, further fuelling the myth and aura. I had to wait until my third trip to Madagascar for a chance to experience it myself. Approaching from the north-west via the village of Matsaborimanga, the initial impression I received was deceptive. All that could be seen was an endless wall of rock rising up to 300m from the Spartan grassy plain. Closer inspection revealed jagged edges and the suggestion of what lay within. But it is only from inside the massif that its true splendour is realised: vast areas of intensely sculptured rock form forests of pinnacle karst, known locally as tsingy.

Water from both above and below is the principle architect and the raw material is a coralline reef, now turned to limestone, raised above an ancient sea bed millions of years ago. Beneath the massif, rivers carve out huge canyons and caverns, while rain percolates through the porous rock eating away at its fabric, grain by grain.

Around the periphery of these citadels grows a tangle of deciduous forest. In places this penetrates deep into the canyons, providing sanctuary for Ankarana's wildlife. Dominant tree species include Dalbergia, Cassia, Ficus and large baobabs, and in places the canopy may reach 25m, often level with or beyond the canyon walls. Deep in the heart of the massif, some caves have collapsed and now contain isolated canyon forests - islands of green surrounded by an impenetrable sea of stone.

Some of the best wildlife can be seen around Campement Anilotra (formerly Camp des Anglais) in the heart of Canyon Grande. When you arrive, groups of inquisitive Crowned lemurs will soon make themselves evident (unfortunately they have become habituated through irresponsible visitors feeding them). Females are a delicate shade of silver-grey, while males are a rich chestnut brown; both sexes have an orange "tiara", which gives them their name. Less curious, but equally visible, are Sanford's brown lemurs, which often occur in smaller groups and remain more aloof than their crowned cousins.

Around the camp, you're almost certain to catch sight of beautiful Ring-tailed mongooses foraging through the leaf-litter and even scaling saplings and small trees looking for bird's nests to rob. Leaf rustling may also betray the movement of one of the island's most endangered endemic birds, the White-breasted mesite, foraging on the forest floor, or the footfall of a Madagascar crested ibis probing for invertebrates.

Forest sounds are prolific. Accompanying background birdsong and the identifiable calls of species like the Cuckoo roller, Lesser Vasa parrot and Crested coua, the insect noise is often constant. The overall cacophony reaches a crescendo when thousands of cicadas strike up.

Night-time rarely brings respite, as the nocturnal shift can be equally noisy. As dusk begins to draw in, the loud staccatowhistles of waking Northern sportive lemurs reverberate all around and the repetitive hoots of Scops owls can be heard. While more silent nocturnal creatures such as the Fanaloka or Striped civet prowl the shadows.

For the first time visitor, the stunning walk to Lac Vert and the tsingy is a must. From Camp Anilotra, the 4km trail winds through forest and over rocks, past a cooling stream and eventually out onto the top of the amazing knife-edge tsingy. Little can survive amid this hostile sun-scorched environment - eking out a precipitous existence are succulents like the endemic Euphorbia pachypodioides, which root themselves in the cracks and gain nutrition from the meagre amounts of trapped detritus.

At the base of the cliffs of these formations, one of the underground rivers breaks free of its subterranean confines andfeeds a deep pea-green lake that provides permanent moisture for the forest around. In the trees around Lac Vert, troops of Crowned and Sanford's Brown Lemurs can often be found.

The first detailed account I read about Ankarana came from Jane Wilson's Crocodile Caves of Ankarana - an account ofthe pioneering expeditions of the early and mid eighties. Her recollections had helped instil my fascination with the area, but one passage in particular lodged itself in my memory, describing her agony after being stung by a scorpion. It was one Ankarana experience I decided I'd rather avoid. For eight years and numerous visits I was successful - but last year I failed. While packing away my tent, I failed to notice a scorpion lurking under the ground sheet and it got me on the thumb. The result was excruciating pain, the like of which I hadn't experienced before. My hand swelled and remained paralysed for six days. So bear this in mind - the treasures of Ankarana can come at a price if you're not careful.

Nick Garbutt finds time to write about Madagascar when he is not leading tours to the country. He is the co-author of Bradt's Madagascar's Wildlife, A Visitor's Guide.

Location

About 110km south of Antsiranana. The drive takes around 4 hours. Alternatively, hike in from Route National 6, (main road between Ambanja and Antsiranana). There is an ANGAP office near the trailhead at the 108km sign on the road. It's a walk of about 11km in to Campement Anilotra; allow 2-3 hours.

Wildlife to Look out for

Mammals: Crowned Lemur, Sanford's Brown Lemur, Northern Sportive Lemur, Grey Mouse Lemur, Ambre Mountain Fork-marked Lemur, Northern Ring-tailed Mongoose, Striped Civet or Fanaloka, Common Tenrec and Greater Hedgehog Tenrec.

Birds: Crested Ibis, White-breasted Mesite, Crested Coua, Hook-billed Vanga, Madagascar Harrier Hawk, Madagascar Scops Owl and Pygmy Kingfisher.

Reptiles: Oustalet's Chameleon, White-lipped Chameleon, Panther Chameleon, two leaf-tailed geckos, Uroplatus henkeli and U. ebenaui, Giant Day Gecko (Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis) and Madagascar Ground Boa.

When to Visit

Ankarana is accessible between May and November.

Accommodation

There are two main camps. Campement Anilotra (formerly known as Camp des Anglais), is in the centre of the reserve and is equipped with long-drop toilets and picnic tables. The water supply is 10 minutes' walk away down a slippery slope. The camp lies in the best areas of forest for wildlife and is a good base for visiting Lac Vert and some of the best tsingy. Campement d'Andrafiabe (formerly Camp des Americains) has a lovely setting underneath the Ankarana wall on the west of the reserve. It now has a water supply and toilets. There are also adjacent areas of forest that are excellent for wildlife, plus access to some spectacular caves.

Necessities

Stout walking boots, water, sun cream and a sun hat. An entry permit should be purchased from the WWF (or ANGAP) in Antsiranana or Tana. When on an organised excursion this will be arranged for you. A guide is compulsory and it would be dangerous to go in to the reserve without one. Most guides live in Matsaborimanga, but are available at the ANGAP office at Mahamasina.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Eighteen: Winter 2001/02. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)