Edition 47: Summer 2009

Although Malawi is one of Africa’s smaller nations, it has plenty to hold you captive. Here are three possible itineraries.

1. Northern explorer
• Lilongwe, Kasungu & Viphya
• Vwaza Marsh & Nyika Plateau
• Mzuzu & Livingstonia
• Chintheche, Senga Bay or Nkhata Bay

Days 1-3
After a night in the capital, highlights of which include the busy central market and recently revamped Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, head north along the M1 towards Mzuzu, the largest town in northern Malawi. Depending on your tastes and interests, spend a night or two en route at Kasungu National Park (for savannah wildlife) or the Viphya Forest Reserve (walking in highlands forest).

Days 4-8
Two nights at Vwaza Marsh come with a near guarantee of elephant and hippo sightings, and a drive deeper into the park might throw up anything from lion to wild dog. Then climb northwest into the Nyika Plateau, which warrants at least three days exploration on foot or by horseback.    

Days 9-10
Head back to the M1 and follow it north to Chitimba, from where a rough road switchbacks up the escarpment to Livingstonia for stunning views across to the lake. Accommodation at Livingstonia is on the rudimentary side, so if that doesn’t appeal there are a few nice resorts around Chitimba and proper hotels in Mzuzu.

Days 11-14
Follow the M5 back from Mzuzu to Lilongwe. Either choose a base for a few nights – Chintheche and Senga Bay both boast great tourist-class hotels – or meander more whimsically, taking in the likes of Nkhata Bay and Nkhotakhota on the way.

2. Southern safari
• Lilongwe
• Chongoni rock art
• Lake Malawi National Park & Cape Maclear
• Liwonde National Park
• Zomba Plateau
• Blantyre (optional)
• Shire Valley/Mulanje (optional)

Days 1-4
Travel from Lilongwe to Liwonde over one or two days, stopping to look at prehistoric rock paintings and sip coffee at the pottery centre at Dedza, or to visit the fascinating ethnographic museum at the Mua Mission. Spend at least two nights in the vicinity of Cape Maclear and Lake Malawi National Park to enjoy the lakeshore at its most scenic.  

Days 5-7
Set aside at least three nights for Liwonde National Park, where you can divide your time between game drives, boat trips on the Shire River, and exploring the camp and surrounds on guided walks. 

Days 8-9
For a change of scene (and temperature) head up for two nights on the Zomba Plateau, whose lovely highland landscapes lend themselves to unstructured rambling.

Days 10-14 (optional)
If your time is limited, you could head directly back to Lilongwe on day 10. Alternatively, head on down to Blantyre, then depending on whether you’re up for a more serious hiking challenge or would prefer another wildlife experience, either head east to the Mulanje Massif or south into the Shire Valley, with its trio of wildlife reserves and national parks abutting the Mozambican border.     

3. Lakeside highlights
• Monkey Bay
• MV Ilala
• Likoma
• Nkhotakhota
• Nkhata Bay

Note that this itinerary depends on the movements of the MV Ilala, whose timetable hasn’t changed significantly in years. In theory, it sails from Monkey Bay at 10am on Friday and arrives at Likoma late Saturday afternoon, before starting the 14-hour run from Likoma to Nkhotakhota at around 3am Tuesday. However, the ferry regularly runs up to 24 hours behind schedule, so don’t cut anything too fine!

Days 1-3
Spend three nights chilling out in the vicinity of Cape Maclear and Lake Malawi National Park to enjoy the lakeshore at its most scenic.

Days 4-5
Get to nearby Monkey Bay by 10am, the ferry’s scheduled departure time, then – as likely as not – wait around a few hours before it departs. The ferry is a real treat, with a decent bar and restaurant, and plenty of locals and travellers to befriend. Sunsets and sunrises over the lake are superb from deck. Arrive at isolated Likoma late the next day.

Days 6-8
After three nights on Likoma, catch the early morning ferry across to Nkhotakhota, site of the still-standing ‘magnificent fig tree’ where Livingstone met with the notorious slave trader Jumbe in 1863.

Days 9-14
Explore the rest of the lakeshore at your own pace, either picking one spot to chill out for a few days – Nkhata Bay, perhaps? – or hopping between resorts as far north as Karonga or as far south as Senga Bay.
 

Right time, right place
Winter (May-September)
Weather-wise, the Malawian winter is about as good as it gets – not a true winter as we know it, but significantly cooler and drier than the summer months. Temperatures along the lakeshore and other low-lying areas are reliably comfortable to warm (rather than bloody hot) and rain is very unusual – good news for hikers, but also from the point of view of malaria, which is present all year round, as it poses less of a risk in the dry season. Game viewing also tends to be better, as the vegetation thins out and wildlife concentrates around perennial water sources. Negatives of travelling in winter are that high altitude locations such as Nyika and Mulanje can get very chilly at night, and that the near-drought conditions often leave the countryside looking burnt out and hazy. 

Summer (November-March)
Summer brings with it the rain – majestic thunderstorms that roll over the escarpment into the Rift floor – and it’s a time of plenty for most living creatures, whether it be local subsistence farmers, calving antelope, or insects. The countryside tends to be more beautiful in summer, and the birdlife is more interesting, with many resident species going into bright breeding plumages, while various migrants flap in from the northern hemisphere. Negatives are that the lakeshore tends to be impossibly hot and humid at times, and the risk of malaria, tickbite fever and other insect-borne diseases is heightened. 

Malawi Factfile

Language
The official language is English. You’ll find it generally spoken to a high standard. The national language, Chichewa, is the first language of about 57 per cent of Malawians. Several other Bantu languages are spoken locally.

Time zone
GMT + 2

Visas
Visas are not required by nationals of the UK, USA, Canada, Australia, Israel, New Zealand, South Africa and most other EU and Commonwealth countries. Those who do require visas must buy them in advance at a Malawian embassy or other diplomatic mission.

Health
Malaria is widespread, particularly along the lakeshore, and prophylactics should be taken by all visitors. A certificate of yellow fever vaccination may be required. Bilharzia is prevalent in Lake Malawi and it’s advisable to test for it after you get home.

Safety
Malawi is widely regarded to be one of the safest countries in Africa, though the incidence of crime aimed at tourists is on the increase, especially in the capital Lilongwe, where you should never walk around carrying valuables or walk alone after dark. Of the lakeshore resorts, Nkhata Bay has a reputation for sporadic outbreaks of muggings and robberies, especially after dark, so check the situation when you arrive. Elsewhere, there is little cause for concern.
 
Money
The official currency is the Malawi kwacha (Mk). In 2009, recent exchange rates were: UK£1=Mk203, US$=Mk139 and €1=Mk186. There are banks with ATMs and bureaux de change in most large towns, but facilities may be limited elsewhere. There is no black market worth pursuing.  

Costs
As is so often the case in Africa, day-to-day expenses in Malawi are very cheap provided one sticks to facilities aimed at locals and budget travellers. However, facilities and services aimed at mainstream tourists tend to be more expensive. The parks and reserves are relatively affordable thanks to the realistic entrance fees. Overall, Malawi is one of the cheapest countries in this part of Africa.

Getting there
The national carrier Air Malawi (www.airmalawi.com) flies regularly between Blantyre and several other major regional cities including Johannesburg, Lusaka, Nairobi and Dar es Salaam. There are no direct flights between Europe and Malawi, but several major African carriers operate connecting flights, among then Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) and Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com). Many backpackers arrive overland from neighbouring Tanzania, Zambia or Mozambique.

Getting around
The best way to see the country, in particular the game reserves, is on an organised tour, which usually involves a combination of domestic flights and 4WD trips between sites of interest. Independent travellers mostly use public transport, which consists mainly of buses and shared taxis, though the lake is serviced by a weekly ferry, the MV Ilala.

Find out more
Malawi Tourism (www.malawitourism.com)

Books
Livingstone’s Lake by Oliver Ransford provides an interesting though rather dated historical overview of
Lake Malawi. The choice of travel guides boils down to Bradt’s Malawi by Philip Briggs (4th edition, 2006), and the less hands-on but more visual Spectrum Guide to Malawi by John Douglas and Kelly White (1st edition, 2002).