Edition 45: Winter 2008/9

Escape the South African tourist trail with a quick visit to Lesotho, where you can swap acacia-dotted savannahs and jeep safaris for alpine woodlands and pony treks. Lonely Planet author Matthew D Firestone tells you why this mountain kingdom is truly one of the continent’s hidden gems.

The tiny mountain enclave of Lesotho is not one of Africa’s most well known countries, though it is certainly one of the most beautiful. Despite being completely surrounded by South Africa, the ‘Kingdom in the Sky’ lies high in the protective cradle of the mighty Drakensberg, a jagged range of soaring basalt that inspired JRR Tolkien’s Misty Mountains. Indeed, Lesotho is often referred to as the Switzerland of Africa, a comparison made all the more poignant by the country’s relative peace and tranquillity.

While Lesotho offers a broad palette of verdant valleys, snow-capped mountains and rushing streams, its utopian landscape is a mere backdrop for the country’s greatest strengths, namely its rich heritage and strong cultural identity. The Basotho people trace their ancestry back to King Moshoeshoe the Great, the legendary 19th-century ruler who gathered the tribes scattered by the Zulu, and established a fortress stronghold near the present-day capital of Maseru. Later on, through a fortunate twist of history, Lesotho was granted independence, and was never made to endure the evils of apartheid. Today, the Basotho take tremendous pride in their country, and are regarded as some of the most welcoming people on the continent.

Considering that the entire kingdom lies above 1000m elevation, Lesotho is something of a hiker’s paradise. With that said, if you’re not too keen on burning through a bit of boot rubber, you can always ride on the back of a Basotho pony, a beast of burden that is perfectly adapted to the rugged terrain. Lesotho is also home to countless examples of ancient San rock art, which dot the rocky hillsides, and pay tribute to the long history of human settlement in Sub-Saharan Africa. Despite all of these draw cards, however, Lesotho lies firmly outside the overland safari circuit, which means that you won’t have to worry about bumping heads with too many other travellers.

Maseru
Although it is Lesotho’s capital and largest city, Maseru is little more than a sprawling town, especially if you compare it to nearby Johannesburg. However, its temperate climate and varied restaurant scene make for a nice stay, which is a good thing as Maseru serves as the country’s principal transportation hub, and is by far the best place to stock up on equipment and supplies.

Thaba-Bosiu
Just east of the capital is the former mountain stronghold of Moshoeshoe the Great, which is regarded by Basotho great and small as the birthplace of the Kingdom of Lesotho. While the mountain is in actuality more akin to a hill, the lore of Thaba-Bosiu lies at the core of the Basotho identity. According to legend, the ‘Mountain of Night’ would transform after sunset into an impenetrable fortress that was unassailable from all sides. While the accuracy of this account is certainly up for debate, Thaba-Bosiu was secure enough to repel wave upon wave of attacks from the Zulu nation.

Semonkong
The ‘Place of Smoke’ draws its name from the nearby Maletsunyane Falls, which are the perfect destination for pony trekkers looking to cool off and take a break from the trail. You can also follow the dramatic Thaba Putsoa range to reach the smaller but equally refreshing Ketane Falls. Much like Malealea, Semonkong is a popular spot for organising outdoor excursions on the back of Basotho ponies, and a five- to six-day trek between both destinations is arguably the highlight of any trip to Lesotho. If you’re up for the challenges of negotiating backcountry trails, be sure to bring with you plenty of warm clothes, reliable rain gear, a sturdy torch, a water purification system and your trusty sleeping bag. Along the way, you can stay in traditional Basotho huts for around M50 (£3) a night, and a warm meal served over a hot campfire is always within easy reach.

Teyateyaneng
The ‘Place of Quick Sands’ doesn’t sounds particularly inviting, though it’s certainly worth stopping by Teyateyaneng if you’re in the market for traditional Basotho crafts. The village is has several craft shops that are worth browsing, but skip over the mass-produced African kitsch and instead choose the locally-produced textiles.

Ts’ehlanyane National Park
The bad news is that Ts’ehlanyane presents some of Lesotho’s most inhospitable terrain, which means that you need to be prepared for some gruelling conditions if you want explore this isolated national park. The good news is that Ts’ehlanyane is home to Lesotho’s only remaining patch of indigenous alpine forest, which is remarkable given that human hands have shaped the country for millennia. Once again, you need to be entirely self-sufficient if you want to explore the woods here, and a reliable local guide is essential as Ts’ehlanyane is pretty much as wild as Lesotho gets.

Bokong Nature Reserve
A protected reserve that lies at the heart of Lesotho’s highlands, Bokong is a popular destination for bush walks, and can be accessed as part of a three-day trek from Ts’ehlanyane National Park. The sweeping views across vast alpine valleys are certainly enough reason to make the trip out here, though you can also add prolific birdlife, ancient rock art and verdant wetlands to the list of attractions.

Sani Top
This small village lies at the top of Sani Pass, one of the most visually arresting (and potentially treacherous) mountain roads in the region. If you’re driving into Lesotho from South Africa, Sani Pass is a dramatic introduction to the Kingdom in the Sky, though be sure to monitor the latest weather conditions as the going can certainly get tough up here. While reaching Sani Top is certainly cause enough for celebration, you’re not quite yet at the summit. On the contrary, the village serves as the jumping off point for the climb up Thabana-Ntlenyana (3482m), one of the continent’s highest peaks. While it’s a fairly straightforward ascent to the top, you’d be wise to hire a local guide as there are plenty of switchbacks along the way, and the highlands of Lesotho are certainly not the kind of place where you can afford to get lost.

Sehlabathebe National Park
Established in 1970 as Lesotho’s first national park, Sehlabathebe is a remote wilderness area that attracts hikers, trekkers, fishermen and birders alike. While you certainly need to be self-sufficient if you want to get beyond the borders, the national park is ripe for adventure, especially if you hike or ride a pony in from Sani Top.

Malealea
This tiny village is one of the most popular places in Lesotho to organise pony treks through the country’s rough and ready highland trails. Your equestrian companions through the mountains and valleys of alpine country will be none other than Lesotho’s signature Basotho ponies. A cross between stocky European horses and more petite Javanese breeds, Basotho ponies have occupied a special place in the hearts and minds of people in Lesotho, especially since the much-revered Moshoeshoe the Great is often depicted on horseback. While Basotho ponies are prone to outbursts of spontaneous affection, they’re tough and extremely fit creatures that are supremely adapted to Lesotho’s challenging terrain. Whether you stay for a night or tackle a multi-day track, don’t miss the chance to explore the bucolic countryside around Malealea, which epitomises the rural beauty and peaceful solitude that makes this speck of a country so justifiably famous.