Edition 45: Winter 2008/9

Whether you explore the national parks on foot or by pony, or discover the riches of the country’s cultural heritage, Lesotho packs quite a bit within its modest borders.

Pony trekking

• Semonkong
• Poney trek
• Basotho villages
• Malealea

• Days 1-2
Spend your first two days taking in the sights of Semonkong, a popular tourist destination that brims with natural attractions. In between visits to towering waterfalls and rocky canyons, however, be sure to prepare yourself, both mentally and physically, for the epic pony trek that lies ahead. This is also a good time to take an inventory of your provisions, and to make sure that you’ve got a good sense of how all of your gear packs down and fits together.

• Days 3-7
Depending on your fitness level – and the fitness level of your trusty pony – the trek to Malealea should take you between five and six days. Of course, there’s no reason to rush the trip as this pony trekking route winds through a variety of stunning highland landscapes. The leisurely pace will also award you with several opportunities to engage with farmers and herders across the countryside, and bedding down in a traditional Basotho hut for the night is certainly a memorable experience.

Wilderness exploration

• Sani Top
• Sehlabathebe National Park
• Ts’ehlanyane National Park
• Bokong Nature Reserve

• Days 1-3
If you’re coming in from South Africa, this itinerary starts with a bus or road trip up Sani Pass, a high altitude-border crossing through the Drakensberg that serves as the perfect introduction to the Kingdom in the Sky. Once you’ve climbed to the top and reached the aptly named Sani Top, take some time to appreciate the great heights before setting out across the vast wilds of Sehlabathebe. Depending on your persuasion, be sure to pack your binoculars and field guide for some birding, or a collapsible pole for a bit of fly-fishing.

• Days 4-7
Having whetted your appetite for the great outdoors, get ready to penetrate deep into the heart of Lesotho with visits to Ts’ehlanyane and Bokong. These two protected areas contain within them a variety of habitats that are testament to Lesotho’s natural blessings. While it’s easy enough to spend an entire week setting foot where only a handful of tourists have gone before, a few days is certainly enough time to leave the trappings of civilisation behind, and discover yourself amidst seemingly never-ending tracts of open space.

Town and country

• Maseru
• Thaba-Bosiu
• Teyateyaneng
• Malealea

• Days 1-2
Make your base in the low-key capital of Maseru, which is pretty much qualifies as a city in these parts. However, this overgrown village is by far the best place to soak up the ebb and flow of modern Basotho life, particularly in the bustling streets, colourful markets and boisterous restaurants. To get a better sense of traditional life, don’t miss the country’s most famous historical monument, Thaba-Bosiu. Lesotho also produces some high-quality textiles, which can be purchased directly from the weavers at the nearby Teyateyaneng.

• Days 3-7
The tourist-friendly town of Malealea is one of the best places in Lesotho to organise a trek on the back of a Basotho pony. In four or five days, you could fully explore the surrounding countryside, and make leisurely visits to a range of natural attractions including waterfalls, gorges, scenic viewpoints and rock shelters. You can also visit a number of rural villages, sampling homemade alcoholic brews, paying a visit to the sangoma (traditional healer) or striking up a conversation with friendly locals.

Right time, right place

It’s good to be the king
Every year on March 11th, Moshoeshoe Day is celebrated in commemoration of the birthday of King Moshoeshoe I, the legendary founder of Lesotho. The festivities kick off in Maseru as throngs of Basotho take to the streets en mass, decked out in colourful costumes and traditional garb. If you’re lucky enough have your visit coincide with the b-day blowout of Moshoeshoe the Great, you can expect a serious amount of singing, dancing, dining, drinking and all-out merrymaking. Moshoeshoe Day is often treated as Lesotho’s de fact independence day, which is reason enough to celebrate the proud history of this tiny but understated country.

Winter, spring, summer and fall
Lesotho is one of the few places in sub-Saharan Africa that has four pronounced seasons, which means that weather plays a crucial factor in timing your visit. While Lesotho is beautiful any time of year, keep in mind that the high country can get bitterly cold during the winter months (June through August). In the summer, temperatures in the valleys can reach 30 degrees Celsius, though the highlands stay cool and crisp. From October to April Lesotho experiences heavy rainfall, though there is still plenty of sunshine between thundershowers.

Lesotho factfile

• Language
The official language of Lesotho is Sesotho (South Sotho) and English, and a good number of people also speak Zulu and Xhosa. However, the vast majority of travellers have no problems getting by on English alone, particularly in the cities and tourist areas.
• Time zone GMT +2
• Visas
Most visitors do not need a visa to enter Lesotho, and stays of up to 14 days are permitted. Extensions for visas are possible, and must be made at the Lesotho Immigration Authorities within the 14-day period.
• Health
Travellers to Lesotho require proof of yellow fever vaccination if coming from an area where disease is present. Vaccination against typhoid, hepatitis A and hepatitis B are recommended, as are updated vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella and polio. Due to its high altitude, malaria is not endemic in Lesotho, though be advised that it is present in parts of neighbouring South Africa.
• Money
The official currency of Lesotho is the loti (plural: maloti, M), which is pegged to the South African rand (ZAR) on a 1:1 basis through the Common Monetary Area. The rand is also accepted as legal tender throughout Lesotho. In 2008, exchange rates include: UK£1 = M15.71, US$1 = M10.03 and €1 = M12.84. As with most countries in southern Africa, cash is king, so don’t rely on your credit cards for the vast majority of transactions. However, ATM cards do work in large towns and cities, and you can always dip back into South Africa if you’re having trouble accessing funds.
• Cost
Lesotho’s costs are on par with much of the region. The price of a cheap room is about M50-100, while mid-range accommodation averages around M200-400. Luxurious options are few and far between, though there are a few posh places in and around the capital costing upwards of M1000 per night. Restaurants throughout the country tend to serve fairly modest fare, with the price of a standard meal being between M20 and M80.
• Getting there
South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) flies to Maseru via Johannesburg. However, most travellers to Lesotho travel overland from South Africa, crossing the border either on a bus or in a private car.
• Getting around
Buses and share-taxis connect Lesotho’s major towns and cities, though roads are steep, windy and poorly maintained. If you have your own vehicle, there are some wonderful scenic drives high up in the mountains, but do take it slowly as there is little room for error in these parts.
• Safety
Lesotho is an extremely safe country. There is little palpable tension anywhere, and is a very pleasant place to travel through. However, it’s still a good idea to mind your belongings and not flaunt your wealth, especially while walking the streets of Maseru.
• Books
Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland (7th edition, 2006) by Mary Fitzpatrick, Kate Armstrong, Becca Blond, Michael Kohn, Simon Richmond and Al Simmonds, and The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland (5th edition, 2008) by Barbara McCrea, Tony Pinchuck, Donald Reid and Greg Mthembu-Salter are the best English-language guidebooks on the nation.