Reader Stu Wrigley writes:

"I'm currently planning a trip to Tanzania, departing mid-September 2002 for at least 30 days. My budget will be around £10,000. I'd like to experience the culture and sights of Zanzibar for 4-5 days, followed by a boat trip, possibly by dhow, to the mainland. There, I'd like to collect a 4x4, self-drive to Kilimanjaro and climb the mountain. Afterwards, I plan to visit the Serengeti to observe (away from throngs of mini-buses) the annual wildebeest migration, which I believe to be in the north-east area of the park at that time.

"I also want to take a 4-5 day bush trek with a local guide, to experience, with minimal impact on the environment, the wildlife and local lifestyles. Ideally, I'd then continue to Lake Victoria. Side trips I'm interested in include ballooning, canoeing and diving."

We passed Mr Wrigley's request to specialist operator Simply Tanzania, who designed the following itinerary. Managing Director Tony Janes suggested that Mr Wrigley take a driver rather than self drive: "Tanzania's infrastructure is not well developed, so many vehicle rental companies are reluctant to hire for self-drive, while insurance policies mean that self-drive is expensive. I strongly recommend taking a driver. There is no equivalent of the AA in Tanzania, so in a breakdown situation, visitors have to rely on the driver's initiative and the goodwill of other drivers."

The itinerary therefore assumes a driver and guide where indicated. Given the generous budget allowance, the trip could be upgraded to include more exclusive lodges, "although the lodges listed are very comfortable and in spectacular settings," says Tony.

Day 1 - Fly overnight to Dar es Salaam (if you can go after mid-September you will benefit from shoulder season prices).

Day 2 - Arrive in Dar es Salaam early morning; transfer from airport to port for jet-foil boat to Zanzibar (far safer than dhows, which often sink in the rough waters with considerable loss of life). Transfer to Mtoni Marine Centre, 8km north of Stone Town, a beach hotel well placed for town and island excursions. Spend four nights at Mtoni on a B&B basis - there are many wonderful restaurants in Stone Town.

Days 3 - 5 Explore Zanzibar: take a spice tour; visit Prison Island and Jozani forest; try diving or snorkelling; or just relax at Mtoni.

Day 6 - After a morning in Zanzibar, catch an afternoon boat to Dar es Salaam. Overnight in the Safari Inn, a clean, secure and modestly priced hotel (B&B).

Day 7 - Transfer from the hotel and to the bus station for an early morning coach to Moshi. Transfer to Keys Hotel, which organises Kilimanjaro climbs.

Days 8 - 12 With the arrangements made by Keys Hotel, take a 5 night-6 day Kilimanjaro climb using the Marangu route, staying in huts. (If travelling alone, it's best to use the Marangu Route; all the other routes use tents, which are usually shared. However, a tented route can be arranged.) Taking six days allows for acclimatisation to altitude, to help avoid mountain sickness. You will be accompanied by a guide and assisted by porters.

Day 13 - Return from the mountain to Keys Hotel, arriving after lunch for a well-earned rest.

Day 14 - Rest day at Keys Hotel. Relax by the pool or arrange a village visit if you have the energy. Local guides are available.

Days 15 - 21 Take a 7 night-8 day safari to Tanzania's northern game parks, staying in lodges on a full board basis. Morning and late afternoon game drives are possible at each lodge.

Day 15 - Drive to Lake Manyara National Park. Overnight at Lake Manyara Hotel.

Day 16 - Drive to Serengeti, stay at the Seronera Wildlife Lodge.

Day 17 - Balloon Safari at Seronera. Depart at dawn, with a champagne breakfast after the tranquil two-hour flight.

Day 18 -Travel to Lobo Lodge in the north-east of the Serengeti. The migrating animals usually return from the Masai Mara in November, but you may be lucky and see some arriving early.

Day 19 - Game viewing based at Lobo

Day 20 - Drive to Ngorongoro Crater via Olduvai Gorge (once the site of Richard Leakey's archaeological digs). Overnight at Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge.

Day 21 - Descend to the crater floor for game viewing. It's sometimes difficult to avoid crowds in the crater, especially around rhinos and lions, but it's worth going. Return to the lodge for dinner.

Day 22 - After breakfast return to Arusha by vehicle and overnight at Impala Hotel (B&B).

Day 23 - Rest day in Arusha. Options include a village visit to see local agriculture and development projects, and have a meal cooked by villagers. The fee goes directly to the community.

Days 24 - 27 Take a 4 night-5 day trek to the Monduli Mountains and North Maasailand. You'll be collected from Arusha in a 4x4, and accompanied by a guide and porters. Trek through mountain forests, dense bamboo, open glades, acacia woodlands and scrub savannah. Camping in remote areas (all food provided). Encounter wildlife in its natural habitat, protected by Maasai guides.

Day 28 - After today's trek, rendezvous with the 4x4 for the drive back to Arusha. Overnight at the Impala Hotel.

Days 29 - 32 Fly from Arusha to Robondo Island National Park in Lake Victoria, and stay three nights at the Robondo Island Camp, which has ten luxury tents. Activities include boat trips on the vast lake and guided walks in the forest, looking out for sitatunga, chimps and some of the 400 bird species.

Day 32 Fly to Nairobi (much nearer than Dar es Salaam) to connect with a Nairobi-London night flight.

Simply Tanzania: E-mail: Tel/Fax: 020 986 0615 Website: www.simplytanzania.com

The Bottom Line.

A total of £6000, excluding a return international flight from London (usually around £600). This also excludes diving, excursions on Zanzibar, other meals where B&B is shown, fees for village visits and visas (£38 Tanzania, £35 Kenya). Note that travelling alone increases the price, as accommodation and transport costs can't be shared.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Nineteen: Spring 2002. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)