Edition 44: Autumn 2008

I have been lured to Africa on many occasions, but African music has never been the driving force – it has always been the wildlife, the landscapes, the history, the local culture (music aside), the physical activities, or simply the thought of a great journey. 

Odd then, when taking the time to look back now, that many of my happiest moments on the continent revolve around local music. For instance, when I found myself stuck in Lodwar when the night’s heavy rains turned sections of the road south into impassable torrents, my intense frustration (I was on a very tight schedule researching a guidebook) evaporated when I stumbled upon an impromptu afternoon concert in town. For the first time, after numerous weeks of counting minutes and planning my perpetual movements through Kenya to the nth degree, I found time standing still – thankfully, so was I.

There is something inherently passionate about most African music; it’s not about records, money or fame, it’s simply about life. Music is an integral part of Africa, and in some regions it is still a vital tool in passing history down from generation to generation. When the beats of the djembé call out in areas of West Africa, they speak a specific language, telling those around of births, deaths and rites of passage. Traditional music in some parts is also said to be the source of healing, knowledge and spirituality.

However, in this increasingly globalised world, the beats emanating from the urban centres get more modern by the day. Though it must be said that many of the songs are often no less meaningful than the rhythms played by their ancestors: lyrics of today are often a powerful political tool and can wield enormous power. To quote Nelson Mandela: “Politics can be strengthened by music, but music has a potency that defies politics.”

So I ask, are those of us who leave music out of the equation when planning a trip to Africa missing out on some of the continent’s best experiences? After reading this edition’s feature article, Finding your groove (page 34) by Emma Gregg, which highlights the best music festivals Africa has to offer, I now realise I have much catching up do to.

It would be remiss of me to not mention another side of music in Africa, one that I have an inordinate amount of experience of. Those of you who ride public transportation while travelling will relate to this. Music on the roads in Africa can bring sorrow along with the joy. There are the glorious moments when a bus is united in song. Then there are the moments in matatus when Celine Dion’s Titanic theme song blares out, over and over and over again. Painful? Yes. Worth missing the ride? Never. I don’t know what I’ll feel when (it will happen) everyone breaks out singing Celine in unison...

In the meantime, safari njema!