Culture shock comes quickly in Madagascar. Even as the plane banks over the red clay houses and emerald paddy fields on the outskirts of Antananarivo, you scan for images that will confirm your arrival in Africa. A dilapidated Citroen taxi shuttles you into the capital and as it swerves around rickshaws and garishly painted carts drawn by hump-backed zebu cattle, you struggle against the illusion that you have landed in the Far East. Even the taxi driver's fine-boned, cafe-au-lait features only confound efforts to convince yourself that this is Africa.

Since Madagascar first sailed away from the African continent over eighty million years ago, the 250-mile-wide Mozambique Channel's fierce currents have done more to insulate the island than has the entire Indian Ocean. The intrepid Indonesian sailors who were Madagascar's first inhabitants left their legacy everywhere, from the pirogue outriggers of the reefs to the stilted huts built to withstand the lowland monsoons, and the ecologically disastrous slash-and-burn agricultural system that had probably driven them from their homelands in the first place.

The Malagasy as a whole (and particularly the powerful Merina and Betsileo tribes of the high plateau) are descended primarily from Malay-Polynesian pioneers who arrived within the last 2000 years. But there are now eighteen main tribes, each with unique cultural and ethnic backgrounds. On the southern scrub-pastures and cactus deserts, there are Bara and Antanosy people who would not look out of place in the Mozambique of their forefathers, while along the eastern coast there are the Antaimoro (keepers of sacred texts written in ancient Arabic script) and the Antambohoaka whose bloodline may date directly to the Arab sailors who knew Madagascar as Gezirat Al-Komr - the Isle of the Moon.

You can waste a lot of time shifting Madagascar from Asian to African pigeonholes and back again, until you accept the fact that the world's fourth-largest island is at once a combination of many things - an island continent in its own right.

Linguists say that the Malagasy language is most closely linked with a Dayak tongue from southern Borneo, but just a glance at some of the place names on the map - Tsiroanomandidy, Ankazomandiladongo et al - dissuades most travellers from any serious hopes of fluency.

The capital, Antananarivo, was established in 1799 by a king with the impressive name (even by Malagasy standards) of Andrianampoinimerinand-riantsimitoviaminandriampanjaka. Described by a French contemporary as "a savage of genius", his own people knew him as "The Hope of the Merina" and it was he who began the campaigns that would eventually unify Madagascar under the Merina flag. While there were certainly renegade clans among the fearless Sakalava ("Those of the Long Valleys") and the Mahafaly ("Makers of Taboos"), for almost a century the Merina rulers maintained their boast: Ny riaka no valamparihiko - "the sea is the only limit to our rice fields".

Then, in 1890, France and Britain signed The Convention of Zanzibar, mutually recognising that island as a British colony and Madagascar as property of France. After a swift invasion in which more French troops were accounted for by fevers than by the weapons of the Malagasy defenders, the colonial forces set about extending their dominion even beyond the rice fields of the Merina. The enlightened colons abolished the "benign" slavery of the Merina caste system (in which slaves were considered part of the family) and replaced it with a far more unpopular taxation system that forced men to earn money by working for the state. Agriculture, business and the communications infrastructure boomed, and the French threw themselves into Malagasy life with such enthusiasm that they became known as the 19th tribe.

But throughout Africa the winds of change began to blow and insurrection, exploding in 1947, was a bloody affair. Over 1000 French soldiers and 30 settlers died, and the numbers of Malagasy dead may have been as high as 80,000. After independence in 1960, the country's first president, Philibert Tsiranana, showed unusual magnanimity by declaring that there was still a place for the French in Madagascar: "You do not kick away the canoe that helped you to cross the river."

However, the country's fortunes soon proved themselves unequal to a population that has doubled to around 14 million since independence. The Malagasy eat more rice than any other nation (half a kilo per person, per day) and it was a sign that hard times had arrived in earnest when the country was forced to begin importing it.

In 1927 Madagascar became one of the world's first countries to establish a national system of nature reserves, under an ecological rallying-cry designed to hit the Malagasy where it hurt: Tsy misy ala, tsy misy rano, tsy misy vary! - "If there is no more forest, there will be no more water; if there is no more water, there will be no more rice!"

The island was already sorely in need of protection. Some estimates suggest that up to 90% of Madagascar's original forest has been destroyed to make way for rice paddies or pastures, and within a short time of man's arrival in this Garden of Eden, two dozen species of large mammals had already become extinct.

Today there are over 50 national parks and reserves, covering the desert, savannah, rainforest, deciduous forest, limestone plateaux and tropical islands that comprise what WWF has called "the world's number one biodiversity hot spot". A share of park entrance fees goes to local communities, in an effort to offset the demands of a population struggling to scratch a living from the denuded soil. The island is big enough to cope with almost any tourist influx and, if run with sensitivity and the involvement of local communities, it is hoped that tourism can prevent the natural history collection of this living museum from being consigned forever to the land of the ancestors.

Some fortunate creatures have achieved a sort of "diplomatic immunity" courtesy of their reputations as envoys from the other world. The tiny Brookesia chameleon is seen as a god; a Malagasy proverb says "it is better to tread on a divinity than to tread on a Brookesia". At the other end of the spectrum the huge Indri lemurs (like seven-year-old children in panda suits) has long been protected by a belief that they are actually men who have been magically transformed into lemurs.

Mysticism and, to our eyes, superstition govern every stage of Malagasy life, but in no other area is it more important than in the question of death. The Malagasy say that "a house is for a lifetime but a tomb is forever", and there can be no worse fate than exclusion from the family tomb. For many, the duties of burial, re-burial and the famous bone-turning ceremonies (along with the accompanying expensive cattle sacrifices and feasts) are the paramount obligation of the living. In some areas, 80% of income is spent on the ancestors, but these "investments" must be made if the living are to enjoy the protection of the dead.

Even the most mundane everyday chores can be governed by a complicated web of fady (taboos). I once visited a village where it had traditionally been forbidden to move cattle on Tuesdays or Thursdays. If a cow was lucky enough to break into a cassava plantation on Monday night she would be free to remain there, feasting unmolested, until Wednesday morning. When the furious farmer finally went to drive her back to the pastures he would invariably be bare-chested, since another fady decreed that it was forbidden to tend the cattle wearing a shirt. The village headman explained the delightful logic behind this: "The zebu know that their owner always comes to collect them without a shirt on. So if bandits come one day to steal them, the cattle will see their shirts, think 'this can't be right' and run away."

There are personal fady, family fady, village fady, tribal fady and many that are so widespread as to be almost national fady. Few Malagasy would risk causing offence by pointing directly at a tomb - though not many would accept that to do so could make your finger fall off.

Even a Malagasy travelling in unfamiliar parts of the island could never be expected to know all the rules of villages through which he passes and, contrary to the reports of some writers, there is no great danger for the foreigner who unwittingly breaks a fady. The Malagasy are among the world's friendliest people and to punish a guest for an unwitting transgression would be against all their codes of hospitality.

Just as a lone Englishman will form an orderly queue of one, a chance meeting between any two Malagasy on a lonely trail will become a friendship and a queue of more than three - waiting for anything at all - will become a party.

Overland travel through remote areas of Madagascar can involve a lot of waiting. With only 12% of the island's roads paved, it is invariably slow (when not downright impossible), often dusty (when not muddy) and frequently excruciatingly uncomfortable. But with the fun-loving Malagasy as travelling companions, a journey through this island continent is always full of surprises.

A contributor to numerous magazines, Mark Eveleigh is the author of two books, including Maverick in Madagascar.

Madagascar's Top Spots

We asked Hilary Bradt, publisher and co-author of Madagascar Wildlife, to list her favourite attractions. We fill in the detail.

Montagne d'Ambre National Park (NP) Montane rainforest with broad trails, waterfalls, and fascinating flora and fauna (tree ferns, bird's-nest ferns and strangler figs). In the dry season (May-August) you can drive to the main picnic area and view lemurs, orchids and birds.

Ankarana Special Reserve Limestone massif of tsingy (karst) and forest, penetrated by caves and canyons. A surreal landscape renowned for its many lemur species, birds, reptiles and insects.

Marojejy NP A fertile and beautiful region crowned by the jagged peaks of the massif of Marojejy. The scenery in this area is consistently beautiful.

Nosy Mangabe Special Reserve In fine weather the island of Nosy Mangabe is spectacular with its beautiful sandy coves, strangler figs, aye-ayes, black and white ruffed lemurs, frogs, chameleons and snakes.

Ile Sainte Marie Tranquil Sainte Marie is only 50x7km at its widest point, yet boasts deserted tropical beaches, bays protected by coral reefs (superb diving) and verdant hills. Several hotels offer whale-watching trips (July-September).

Andasibe-Mantadia NP (Perinet)Moist montane forest rich in fauna and flora including orchids, many frog species, tenrecs, birds, insects, spiders, reptiles and the elusive Diademed sifaka. Its relative proximity to Tana makes it Madagascar's most popular reserve.

Ranomafana NP High-altitude rainforest, particularly rich in wildlife, with 12 species of lemur (notably the Golden bamboo lemur), over 100 bird species and spectacular scenery. Swim in the clear waters of the Namorona

Andringitra NP South of Ambalavao lies the Andringitra massif, excellent for hiking and crowned by Madagascar's second highest mountain, Pic Boby. A magnet for serious naturalists. The Reserve Naturelle Integrale de l'Andringitra hosts all four species of bamboo lemur.

Andohahela NP Unique biodiversity. The park spans rainforest and spiny forest, and is the last place the Triangulated palm (Neodypsis decaryi) can be found.

Berenty Private Reserve Tame lemurs, comfortable accommodation and tranquil forest trails make this a key destination. Famous for its population of ring-tailed lemurs and sifakas (relaxed enough to jump on your shoulder and take bananas).

Isalo NP Canyons and rocks eroded into bizarre shapes. Rare endemic plants (aloes, Elephant's foot), lemurs and sweeping panoramas. Hiking is popular, particularly to the Piscine Naturelle and Canyon des Singes.

Kirindy Forest One of Madagascar's most rewarding natural areas (although not a reserve). Abundant wildlife (spot the endemic giant jumping rat). Night walks recommended for nocturnal fauna.

Ampijoroa Forest Dry, deciduous forest, easily accessed and with an abundance of wildlife (notably lemurs and birds) and excellent hiking. Check out Lake Ravelobe (for birding) and the Angonoka Tortoise Programme.

Nosy Be This is Madagascar's main tourist centre, famed for diving. Beautiful but expensive. Offshore lies the quieter Tsara Banjina, with coloured volcanic rocks, lush vegetation, white beaches and abundant marine life.

Anjajavy Beach An exquisite strip of white sand, palms and intensely blue water. Inland are baobabs, dense deciduous forest, rocky outcrops and impressive mangroves.

Also Worth A Visit

Antananarivo Madagascar's chaotic, hilly and atmospheric capital, affectionately known as Tana. The ruined Queen's Palace overlooks the city, which is crammed with market stalls, shops, hotels and restaurants catering to all budgets. Worth visiting are Tsimbazaza (a museum, botanical garden and zoo) and the Marche Artisanal.

Tolognaro (Fort Dauphin) Built on a small peninsula, the town is bordered on three sides by beaches and backed by high green mountains. This is the base for visiting the Berenty Reserve, spiny forest, Portuguese Fort and the Bay of Sainte Luce.

Morondava Big tree country. The splendid Grandidier's baobabs are best seen at the Avenue des Baobabs. Also popular are the entwined Baobabs Amoureux and various sacred specimens. Hire mountain bikes at some hotels - an excellent way to see the trees.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Nineteen: Spring 2002. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)