Steeped in history, the Swahili coast was long the epicentre of cultural and commercial exchanges between East Africa and the outside world. Its shores started drawing visitors in the 2nd century AD, and today thousands continue to flock here each year. In Tanzania, most travellers make a beeline for the tourist Mecca of Zanzibar. However, what most of them don’t know is that just across the Pemba Channel there is a 300km-long stretch of pristine coastline that resembles Zanzibar’s seashore in the days of old.

Fringed by a profusion of swaying coconut palms, Ushongo Bay’s broad expanse resembles the sweeping horns of a bull. Set back from the golden swathe of beach, and encircled by luxuriant vegetation, are comfortable thatched-roof cottages, each cooled by the Indian Ocean breezes. After the 90-minute drive south from the airport at Tanga, my arrival at Tides Lodge was a double-edged sword. As excited as I was about the prospects – scuba diving, fishing, kayaking, windsurfing, swimming, enticing beach chairs – I was all too aware of one very painful mistake… My stay here was going to be way too short.

Although tempted to flop on the beach, I jumped at the chance to dive at the nearby Maziwe Island Marine Reserve. Set up with a full complement of gear by Kasa Divers, I was soon motoring out to a distant sliver of white seemingly trapped between the azure of the sea and sky.

Established in 1975, the reserve is a biological treasure-trove with more than 200 species of fish and 35 species of hard and soft corals. Previously home to an extensive forest of large casuarina trees and coconut palms, the island’s vegetation was tragically cleared, resulting in irreversible erosion and the submersion of the island in the late 1970s. Today, communities living in the vicinity are actively involved in conservation and the island is rigorously protected.

Once enveloped by the waters, we descended to a series of coral bommies punctuating the sandy bottom. Shrouded with a thick mantle of sponges, anemones and hard corals, the bommies were a virtual magnet for life. Schools of juvenile barracudas, yellow sweepers, basslets and sweetlips congregated in abundance, and the copious nooks  and crannies below provided refuge for a fascinating array of critters. Exhibiting a riot of colours, nudibranchs (undersea cousins of slugs) put their land counterparts to shame, while cleaner shrimp patiently awaited their next customer.

Getting up for the sunrise the following day, I took a walk down the beach, a bevy of skittish ghost crabs my only company. The remainder of the day on the shore was just as splendid. After the hustle and bustle of Zanzibar’s Stone Town, the only sign of traffic here is the occasional dhow passing by in the sparking waters.

It was all too soon that I had to leave luxury’s lap, as my scheduled trip into the African wilds was calling. I’d been longing to see something a bit different, and Chris Pilley and Ingrid Vrae of Bush2Beach Safaris had met the challenge by arranging an itinerary that included some lesser-known destinations. Joining me would be John, my Tanzanian guide and driver. With 15 years wildlife-spotting experience under his belt, I knew I was in good hands.

My first destination would be the Amboni Caves, the largest cave system in East Africa. Despite its lofty status, there are no floodlights or fancy boardwalks. We ventured into the cool interior with our guide and a single flashlight. Normally, I’m not claustrophobic, but as the passages became narrower and more convoluted I had an inkling that I may just be! To let us feel true darkness, our guide turned off his torch. We were immediately consumed by inky blackness, and my ears soon took up the slack, distinguishing the distant squeaks of bats clinging to the cavernous ceiling.

The ensuing tour revealed numerous formations, each boasting whimsical and equally apt names such as ‘The Crocodile’, ‘Statue of Liberty’ and ‘Virgin Mary’. As we climbed into the uppermost potion of the cave a remarkable sight greeted us. The roots of a strangler fig had made their way through cavities in the rock high above and were cascading down the vertiginous rock face in front of us.

I hadn’t previously thought of rainforest in savannah-dominated east Africa, but the Usambaras rise from the surrounding plains like an archipelago of forest-clad islands. They form part of the Eastern Arc Mountains, a string of 13 ancient ranges that are the oldest in East Africa. Often dubbed ‘Africa’s Galapagos’, these mountains contain the continent’s highest number of endemic species, particularly of bird, reptile and amphibian.

Tucked away at the eastern end of the Usambara Mountains, the Amani Nature Reserve is a botanist’s dream. Opened in 1997, the reserve protects 10,000ha of the most extensive montane rainforest in Tanzania. A series of excellent walking trails offers resplendent forest scenery and outstanding birdwatching. At the last count, 340 species had been recorded, including 19 endemics such as the Usambara eagle owl and tailorbird. Chameleons are especially prolific and the area is the original home of a flower known the world over: the African violet.

Our route into the Amani took us past the town of Muheza, where the road rose sharply and became progressively rougher. However it wasn’t long before a luxuriant canopy of green engulfed the road, with dense clusters of epiphytic ferns shrouding the trees and extraordinary arrays of writhing vines cascading down to the buttressed roots below. By the final leg of the journey, the road had become little more than twin ruts embedded in the overgrown vegetation, barely visible in the headlights of our Land Rover.

We finally came to a stop at Emau Hill Forest Camp, our base for further explorations. Although the airy, comfortable thatched-roof tents have no electricity (kerosene lamps are provided), wildlife was on their doorstep. A quick walk in the garden with owner Stephen Valentine revealed chameleons and an assortment of slumbering birds.

Alas, my scheduled early morning bird walk was a literal washout due to an unexpected cloudburst (it is a rainforest after all). Yet, even from the terrace, a number of birds were still seen, including silver-cheeked hornbills and olive-backed sunbirds. At one point Stephen brought out a dead-leaf frog, an indigenous species that had taken up residence in a cupboard to escape the deluge outside.

Over a memorable cup of Tanzanian coffee, I chatted with Stephen about Emau Hill and his charity, the Tukae Foundation, which has operated in conjunction with the camp since 2000. The foundation’s projects, such as craft workshops and a women’s cooperative to raise butterflies for export, help provide much–needed sources of income for Tanzanians in this predominantly poor region.

Further inland lie the western Usambaras. Much higher in elevation than their eastern counterparts, they have a very different look, with extensive stands of eucalyptus trees covering the slopes. The steep-sided valleys are a diverse patchwork of cultivated farmland, plantations and indigenous forest. The gateway to this region is Lushoto, which is known for its early 20th-century German colonial buildings.

A 35-minute drive from town is Mueller’s Guesthouse. More Surrey than Swahili, it’s a charming English-style residence surrounded by well-manicured gardens and fruit trees. Originally constructed in 1930, it served as a private residence for many years before being converted into a guesthouse for visitors wanting to explore the network of walking trails that wind through the verdant forests in nearby nature reserves.

Before I left the next day, a local guide walked me through a forest brimming with birdlife to a nearby waterfall. Later we headed back to Lushoto en route to the Irente viewpoint. Perched at the edge of the Usambara massif, and overlooking the arid Maasai Steppes a vertical kilometre below, Irente is nothing short of stupendous.

And down we were to go…

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Lying in the shadow of the Usambara and Pare Mountains is Mkomazi National Park. Its 3700 square kilometres of semi-arid savannah would be my first true taste of East Africa’s grassy plains. Originally designated as a game reserve in 1951, it was upgraded to national park status in 2006, making it Tanzania’s newest park. Fitting really, as it adjoins Kenya’s famed Tsavo West National Park.

Recent rains had turned the grass a lush green, providing a dramatic contrast with the vivid red of the dirt track. Mkomazi is blessed with over 450 bird species, and the roll call started almost immediately, with John proving to be a master at spotting. In no time we encountered lilac-breasted roller, Abyssinian roller, red and green barbet, black-bellied bustard, ostrich, red-billed hornbills and a multitude of yellow-necked francolins.

Sipping my coffee at sunrise the next morning, watching the bush awaken to the accompaniment of birdsong, was the highlight of my entire trip.

While wildlife spotting in some of Africa’s more popular parks can resemble a rugby scrum, there is no chance of that here. That said, there won’t be the wall-to-wall animals associated with the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater either. Because of previous hunting in the region, some of the wildlife here are wary of humans, and make themselves scarce at times. However, that’s what makes the encounters all the more rewarding – you have to work for them.

The roads crisscrossing the park were a virtual message board, with animal tracks and droppings attesting to the presence of elephant, buffalo, giraffe and numerous antelopes. A number of dry-country species rarely encountered  elsewhere in Tanzania can also be observed here, including fringe-eared oryx, lesser kudu and gerenuk. An unexpected bonus was a close encounter with a female cheetah and her two cubs. I was later told that cheetahs weren’t even known to live in the park!

The virtual absence of other tourists makes Mkomazi an ideal place to soak up the solitude of the African bush. And when the park reveals its secrets to those who put in the effort, it is a truly special place – a fitting end to a remarkable journey. 

Plan your trip

Getting There
Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com) has daily flights from Heathrow to Dar es Salaam via Nairobi. British Airways (www.ba.com) flies direct to Dar es Salaam several times each week. Coastal Aviation (www.coastal.cc) connects Tanga with Dar es Saalam, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro and many other Tanzanian destinations.

When to visit
The best time to visit the Swahili coast in conjunction with trips to Mkomazi National Park and the other sights covered in this story is from July to October and from December to February.

Visas
Most visitors require visas. Single-entry visas can be acquired at most points of entry, including Dar es Saalam airport. UK passport holders can also purchase visas at the Tanzania High Commission in London (www.tanzania-online.gov.uk)

Books
Bradt’s Tanzania with Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia (6th edition, 2009) by Philip Briggs and Lonely Planet’s Tanzania (4th edition, 2008) by Mary Fitzpatrick are the most accurate and up-to-date guides available.

Find out more
Bush2Beach Safaris (www.bush2beach.com)
Tides Lodge (www.thetideslodge.com)
Kasa Divers (www.kasadivers.com)
Tanzania Tourist Board (www.tanzaniatouristboard.com)
Emau Hill Forest Camp (www.emauhill.com)