I was an alien in a foreign landscape. A few minutes earlier I was in the Africa I knew, the Africa I loved. The transition from open plains dotted with desert scrub to this Martian world was almost instantaneous, and it caught me completely off guard. The colours were no longer muted shades of yellow and brown – they were deep purples and reds. Glistening volcanic boulders, each similar in size and shape, and looking more like polished footballs than products of the earth’s core, covered the ground ahead almost as far as the eye could see. The only breaks in this strange sea of rock were vividly-coloured volcanic cinder cones.

Almost not believing what I was seeing, I asked my driver to stop the vehicle so I could try to take it all in. Setting foot into the bleakest environment I’d ever encountered, I was blasted by the intense heat radiating from the ground. Despite the harshness of it all, I was completely captivated.

The shattered lava fields of Mount Kulal are more than just an arresting sight, they are the signal that you’re on the cusp of perhaps the most intoxicating experience in all of Kenya – seeing Lake Turkana’s shimmering waters seemingly rise from the inhospitable surroundings.

The scale of the lake is immense, stretching 290km north to Ethiopia, and covering 6405 square kilometres. The largest desert lake in the world, its shoreline is actually longer than Kenya’s entire Indian Ocean coast. Piercing Turkana’s surface are numerous volcanic deposits and not one but two volcanoes. On the lake’s southern shore is Teleki’s volcano, which truly is a sight to behold, its perfect cone climbing out from the water’s edge. Further north, forming Central Island, is an active volcano that last spewed sulphur and steam a little over three decades ago – its heavily cratered surface speaks of this island’s violent past.

However, Lake Turkana’s appeal is the result of more than just its physical attributes: dotting the shore are some of the most interesting ethnic peoples in Africa. The area’s most populous group, the Turkana, occupy sections of the lake’s western and southern shores. Until fairly recently, this population of 250,000 or so had minimal contact with the Republic of Kenya itself, let alone with tourists. Originating from Karamojong in northeastern Uganda, the Turkana migrated to this region in the 17th century. Like the tribes to which they are linguistically linked – the Maasai, Samburu and Luo (the latter less so) – the Turkana are primarily pastoralists, though fishing and small-scale farming are on the increase. The Turkana are more independently minded than most of Kenya’s other tribes and often show indifference to family and clan ties. Studies by several anthropologists have suggested that allegiance to particular cattle brands is a more significant aspect of identity than blood or lineage.

Traditional attire is still the norm, with some of the older male members wearing animal skins. Despite the assaulting heat of the region, the most noticeable clothing staple is a reddish, garishly-chequered woollen blanket. Men cover part of their hair with mud, which is then painted blue and decorated with feathers, often from ostrich. These men also typically carry a stool-cum-pillow, carved from a single piece of wood, along with a wooden fighting staff and wrist knife. The time-honoured practice of carrying such weapons has something to do with the Turkana’s truculent reputation – their relations with the neighbouring Merille, Samburu and Pokot tribes have often been violent. You may notice lines of neat scars on men’s shoulders and chest from these encounters. However, these are not wounds, rather they are thought to be a score board for the enemies they’ve killed in battle – the marks on the right shoulder indicate males, and those on the left, women.

Nonetheless, the Turkana are anything but hostile towards visitors who make it up this far, showing respect and even a smile or two. But they are unwaveringly stubborn when it comes to bargaining or having their photo taken and, unfortunately, you’ll have to do a little negotiating in order to get a picture. When looking into the hollow eyes of the elders, it’s hard not to be humbled by the thoughts of what they’ve witnessed over the years. My encounters with these enigmatic people were some of the most rewarding experiences I’ve ever had in Kenya.

Another intriguing tribe found along the baking western shore of the Jade Sea are the El Molo. Unlike the nearby Turkana, they rely solely on the lake for their survival, living on a diet of fish, crocodile, turtle and other aquatic species. Although officially banned by the government, hippo hunts are still important within their society, with successful warriors gaining great social status for a successful kill. Unfortunately, however, their protein-rich diet combined with the high fluoride levels in the lake’s water, has taken its toll over the centuries, leaving them prone to disease and vulnerable to attacks from other tribes.

To subscribe or buy back issues, click here 

The diminutive village of Loyangalani, set on the lake’s southwestern corner, is undoubtedly the best place to base yourself for exploring the Jade Sea and for meeting the region’s people. With only one tiny lodge and two community-run campsites, the tourist infrastructure here is far from overwhelming – as it should be. Odds are that you’ll be the only one there.

As you approach the village, the woven dwellings of the Turkana, scattered on the harsh, rocky terrain, will start to catch your eye. It somehow seems inconceivable that these little simple domes can protect their inhabitants from such a ruthless environment. But just when you’ve convinced yourself that they must be relicts of the past, a naked child or colourfully-clad elder strolls out from a shadowy interior.

Besides wandering in the village, interacting with the community and enjoying the hot springs, there are some great activities in the surrounding region. And while you are most likely thinking that swimming in the Jade Sea may be one of them, you’d be very wrong – the crocodile population in the lake is very, very healthy. Perhaps the most engaging activity is a trip out to South Island. Now a national park and UNESCO World Heritage site, this barren island is an extraordinary destination. Come for the sense of adventure, and for the complete feeling of remoteness – it must be one of the loneliest places in the world to spend the night, with a few crocodiles, snakes and feral goats being your only island companions.

Another stimulating destination to take in along Lake Turkana is the Koobi Fora Research Project in Sibiloi National Park. Found on the lake’s northwestern shore, this archaeological site has provided evidence of humanoid evolution over the past 4.2 million years.

Whether you have a week or a month, the patience for public transport or a budget for a 4WD, this area of Kenya is one of the most challenging and worthwhile destinations on the entire continent. Once you’ve come and gone, northern Kenya’s otherworldly landscapes and its intoxicating people will be a part of you forever.

Plan your trip

Getting there
Getting to and from Loyangalani on Lake Turkana’s eastern shore is not the easiest of tasks, though the fact that this region is so remote is why you will probably have the place to yourself. Although demanding, the journey is also incredibly rewarding.

By road there are two options: north through the Rift Valley via Nakuru, Nyahururu, Maralal, Baragoi and South Horr; or west from Marsabit, either via Loglogo or North Horr. Combining these routes in a loop is highly recommended. Public transportation is non-existent to Loyangalani from Maralal and Marsabit, but transport trucks are an option for the intrepid traveller. If time is limited, it is possible to access Lake Turkana by chartered light aircraft.

When to visit
Temperatures are consistent year round, but rainfall in March, April and May can make access via road very tricky.

Visas
Most visitors require visas. Single-entry visas can be acquired at most points of entry, including Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi.

Books
Lonely Planet’s Kenya (7th edition, 2009) by Matthew Firestone et al is the most accurate and up-to-date guide available for northern Kenya.