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Edition 51 Summer 2010
Dwarfed by its neighbours, Tunisia is North Africa in a nutshell, with a healthy dose of European sophistication thrown in. Here, Lonely Planet author Anthony Ham shows you how to experience all of North Africa’s charms in one small country.
Tunisia’s decades-long travel boom has always depended on two pillars: 1148km of Mediterranean beach frontage and visas that couldn’t be easier to obtain. While Algeria and Libya vacillate about opening their doors to tourism, traveller-friendly Tunisia has never been troubled by such qualms. But there’s so much more to Tunisia than white-sand beaches and the ease of getting to them.
Like modern sun-starved Europeans, the great maritime trading empires of the Phoenicians and Romans came to see Tunisia as one of the prime locations in the central Mediterranean. The cities they left behind – Carthage, Dougga, Sbeitla, Bulla Regia and the soaring Colosseum of El-Jem – rank among Tunisia’s most appealing sites. Although working on a far smaller scale, the indigenous Berbers also bequeathed to the country some extraordinary architectural curiosities, not least among them the carefully concealed underground homes and hobbit-like troglodyte architecture. And then there’s the Sahara of southern Tunisia, a dune-scattered landscape punctuated by vast palm oases.
But arguably Tunisia’s most stirring ingredient is its recurring echo of legends both ancient and modern: the island of Jerba may just be the ‘Land of the Lotus Eaters’ from Homer’s Odyssey, the otherworldly traditional architecture of the Berbers lent the backdrop for many a Star Wars film, and the ancient walled cities of Sfax and Tozeur, along with the Tunisian Sahara, were the ideal setting for the desert romance that pervaded The English Patient.
With imposing coastal forts, charming seaside villages and a regular calendar of cool festivals thrown into the mix, not to mention its well-developed tourism infrastructure, Tunisia has so much more to recommend it than the one-dimensional tourist brochures would suggest.
Tunis & surrounds
Tunisia’s capital is a cosmopolitan place that spans the ages. Proudly North African, but wearing its French colonial history like a badge of honour, Tunis is an agreeable fusion of Tunisia’s many pasts, the most obvious expression of which is the juxtaposition of the tangled and atmospheric medina and the strong and sophisticated hints of French-style café culture. But it’s in the city’s hinterland that you may want to spend most of your time. The Bardo Museum contains one of the Mediterranean’s finest collections of antiquities, the ruins of Carthage resonate with the gravitas of the past, while the clifftop village of Sidi Bou Saïd is a Mediterranean idyll with gorgeous architecture and cascading bougainvillea. Tabarka
A resort town that draws more Tunisians than it does Europeans, Tabarka is the perfect place to sample the Tunisian love of the sea. A Genoese fort provides an architectural focal point, the outdoor cafes by the water evoke the city’s laid-back approach to life and the long curve of sand is ideal for walks and lazy days spent doing nothing at all. Diving and horseback riding are both possible here, while Tabarka’s summer-long diet of music festivals covers an impressive range of genres from Latin to jazz with a detour to Algerian rai en route. Dougga
It can be difficult to choose between Tunisia’s numerous Roman sites, but Dougga wins out for its picturesque combination of extant Roman buildings and a setting that speaks volumes for the Roman love of drama and the importance of a good view. Rendered in golden stone, the graceful remnants of this attractive Roman outpost on African soil watch out over an ochre landscape of valleys and mountains. More than 20 temples survive here in varying states of repair, but it’s the peerless capital – at once one of Africa’s most beautiful Roman edifices and Dougga’s signature landmark – that casts all others into shade. In July and August, the extensively renovated theatre provides the backdrop for the Dougga Festival and its performances of classical drama. Le Kef
Tunisia has its share of walled cities, but none can compare to Le Kef. Topped by a picture-perfect kasbah and huddled within honey-coloured walls on the slopes of Jebel Dyr, Le Kef feels for all the world like a town seeking refuge from the modern world. Lost in the cobblestone streets, you’ll wonder into which North African fairytale you have wandered as you stumble upon mosques, churches and an abandoned synagogue. The Ksour
Having watched invading armies sweep across the region for centuries, the Berbers retreated into the most inaccessible redoubts and even, in the case of Matmata, into ingenious underground or pit homes with their labyrinths of passageways. Above ground, impregnable hilltop villages cling to rocky outcrops while the iconic ghorfas around Tataouine (which gave its name to a Star Wars planet) and Ksar Ouled Sultane seem to spring directly from a child’s fertile imagination. Little wonder, therefore, that many a Star Wars movie was filmed in the area. More than that, the Ksour is Berber to the core and essential to understanding North Africa’s most enduring inhabitants. Tozeur
Deep in the Tunisian interior and on the cusp of the Sahara, Tozeur has an utterly different feel to every other place in the country. The massive palmeraie (palm grove) renowned for its high quality dates and a stunning brick old town that dates back to the 14th century form the centrepiece of Tozeur itself. But the town also serves as a base for some of Tunisia’s most rewarding day excursions. Away to the southwest, Nefta is like a smaller, more intimate version of Tozeur and is also a major centre for Sufism. Northwest, and hard up against the Algerian border, lie the gorgeous mountain oases of Tamerza, Chebika and Midès.
Grand Erg Oriental
If you find yourself dreaming of the Sahara as you watch the plane drift over a seemingly endless expanse of dunes during the opening scene of The English Patient, the Great Eastern Sand Sea, where the scene was shot, is your kind of place. One of the largest areas of sand dunes on earth, the erg spills over into Tunisia from neighbouring Algeria and accounts for a vast swathe of the country’s south. Most types of desert expedition are possible here, from a short-haul camel journey into the dunes around Douz, or a longer expedition into the desert’s heart from Ksar Ghilane. Jerba
This mythical place combines all the essential ingredients of Tunisia’s appeal. Jerba has idyllic beaches that are far less developed than most seaside towns on the mainland, while its interior is an architectural stronghold of the past, replete with fortified homesteads unique to the island; there’s even North Africa’s oldest (and, unusually, still functioning) synagogue. It all comes together in Houmt Souq, a whitewashed town with pleasing squares, fine restaurants and lively bars. El-Jem
UNESCO World Heritage-listed and rising improbably from the plains of Tunisia’s coastal hinterland, El-Jem’s 3rd-century Colosseum is arguably the single most impressive structure in the country. Once the third-largest Colosseum in the Roman world, it’s an enchanted honeycomb of arches, passageways and Roman decadence. It’s at its best when bathed in the golden light of sunset, or during the El-Jem International Symphonic Music Festival, which runs from mid- July to early August. Kairouan
A world away from (yet within easy striking distance of) the hedonism of the coastal resorts, Kairouan is like Tunisia before the tourists arrived. Although surrounded by an increasingly sprawling modern town, it’s in the charming blue-and-white medina, strewn as it is with splendid examples of Aghlabid architecture, which includes the oldest mosque in North Africa, that you’ll want to spend your time; staying overnight is recommended as it enables you to join the city’s collective sigh of relief as the tour buses leave bearing day-trippers back to the coast. Yes, there are carpet sellers, but it’s a delightfully low-key place, as well as being one of the seven holiest cities of Islam. Right time, right place
Saharan Journeys
The ideal time for heading into the Sahara is from October through to March, when daytime temperatures can be surprisingly mild (at least by Saharan standards), although night-time temperatures can drop below freezing. April is also bearable, but visibility can be reduced by wind-borne sand and there is an increasing likelihood of sandstorms. You’ll struggle to find any operator willing to take you out into the sands during the fiercely hot months from May to September.
Summer
High summer (namely July and August) can be witheringly hot – fine if you’re by the water’s edge, less so inland. As this period also coincides with the European vacation season, Tunisia can be decidedly overcrowded at this time. On the flipside, this is also when the country’s calendar of outstanding festivals gets into full swing. You should also factor in Ramadan which, in 2010, runs from 11 August to 9 September. Although Tunisia is more relaxed about such things than neighbouring Algeria and Libya, and you may barely register its presence in the coastal resorts, life in rural and non-touristy areas slows down considerably (and some restaurants close) during daylight hours in Ramadan. Tunisia Factfile Language
Arabic and French are widely spoken, although English is increasingly spoken by people working in tourism. In the south, many people also speak the Berber language Tamazigh.
Time zone
GMT + 1
International dialling code
+ 216
Visas
Citizens of most Western European countries and Canada don’t require a visa for stays of up to three months (four months for US nationals). Australians and South Africans can obtain a three-month visa on arrival (around £18.50).
Health
As with most of North Africa, there are no required vaccinations for visiting Tunisia, although you’ll need a yellow fever vaccination if you’re travelling from most places in sub-Saharan Africa.
Safety
Tunisia is a generally safe place in which to travel. A one-off suicide bomb attack on Jerba’s El-Ghriba Synagogue in 2002 led to increased security at key tourist sites. You should exercise caution on deep desert expeditions, particularly close to the Algerian border – always travel with a reputable local guide and check the security situation before setting out.
Money
The unit of currency is the Tunisian dinar (TD). Recent exchange rates were: UK£1=TD2.16, US$1=TD1.40 and €1=TD1.89. Visa, American Express and MasterCard are widely accepted at larger shops, hotels, car-rental agencies and banks. ATMs offering cash advances in local currency are also widespread.
Costs
Travellers on a reasonably tight budget could just about get by on £25 per day by staying in youth hostels, travelling in shared taxis and eating cheap. If you add in car hire, stay in mid-range hotels, eat in decent restaurants and take the odd local tour £40 is the minimum you could expect to pay, while £60 will see you travelling in considerable comfort.
Getting there
The national carrier is Tunis Air (www.tunisair.com.tn), which connects Tunis to other cities in North and West Africa, as well as to (at last count) 27 European cities. In addition to a clutch of charter airlines that fly directly into the coastal resorts, British Airways (www.ba.com), Air France (www.airfrance.com) and Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) all fly to Tunis.
Getting around
Tunis Air, through its subsidiary Sevenair (www.sevenair.com.tn), operates domestic flights from the capital to Jerba, Tozeur, Sfax, Gafsa and Tabarka. Trains run from Tunis to Sousse and Sfax, but the air-conditioned and generally punctual buses of Société Nationale du Transport Rural et Interurbain (SNTRI; www.sntri.com.tn) go just about everywhere. Otherwise there are louages (shared taxis), which leave when full.
Books
Lonely Planet publishes Tunisia; the fifth edition is due out in July 2010. Robert D Kaplan’s Mediterranean Winter: A Journey Through History touches on Tunisia and is good for placing Carthage in its wider Mediterranean context. Mustapha Tlili’s Lion Mountain is an absorbing novel by the country’s finest writer – it traces the impact of modernisation and tourism on a remote Tunisian village.
Find out more
Good websites covering Tunisia are pretty scarce, but the tourist office’s site at www.tourismtunisia.com, or the privately run Tunisia Online (www.tunisiaonline.com), are good places to start. For Saharan travel, Sahara Overland (www.sahara-overland.com) is terrific, with a helpful travellers’ forum.
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