Eco-tourism: Kenya - Building a Dream PDF Print E-mail
Issue 20
Michael Dyer tells the inspiring story of the birth of the Il'Ngwesi group ranch in Laikipia.

 joined Borana Ranch as a young manager in the early 1980s. My immediate neighbours to the north were the Il N'gwesi Maasai. Natural ecologists, they led a pastoralist's life, living in complete harmony with their land. However, anyone could come and hunt (prior to 1979) or camp without compensating them. As the pastoralists became more sedentary, overgrazing devastated the land. Elephant and rhino poaching were rife. Wildlife had little or no value to Il N'gwesi's communities, who became increasingly desperate.

Sustainable alternative land use methods became crucial. Working closely with the chief and elders, Ian Craig of the nearby Lewa Downs Conservancy established a management committee. The sole safari operator using the area agreed to pay a conservation fee, which was used to register Il N'gwesi as a Group Ranch. After countless meetings and surveys, the plan emerged to build a tourist lodge, wholly owned and run by the community, in a conservation area established on the ranch.

The community chose a board of directors (both Ian and I were elected). We sourced grant funding for a 12-bed lodge. Without particularly intending to, we built an eco-lodge: we just built sensibly, using materials that suited our requirements. Timber uprights were harvested as deadwood; other timber came from plantations. Grass thatch was cut, minimal concrete was poured and furniture was fashioned from deadwood by local artisans. Sun-heated shower water is recycled via the trees. No foreign plant species have been introduced. Lighting is solar and water, gravity fed from a spring, is used wisely.

Many clients self-cater and should ideally take all packaging away with them (although some refuse). Lodge staff process and bag this for them; biodegradable waste is composted. If Borana or Lewa caters for guests, we remove all waste; on Borana every empty container is used in our tree nursery. We use biodegradable detergents and encourage guests to explore by foot or camel, leaving vehicles behind.

Award-winning Il N'gwesi has been hugely successful, attracting much interest from conservation organisations. Members are fiercely proud of their achievement. Revenue pays for schools and bursaries, veterinary and health facilities.

Il N'gwesi has become a role model for other communities. We helped our northern neighbours to register and develop Lekurruki Community Conservation Group Ranch. With grant funding, a low-impact but very comfortable 12-bed lodge, Tassia, opened in 2001.

A morning's walk links the lodges. Both have charming, knowledgeable staff and are excellent examples of successful community-owned conservation initiatives working with private enterprise and conservation charities. Community members realise that pristine land is worth more than the return from livestock. (However rather than reducing livestock numbers, they simply moved herds elsewhere, increasing the burden on surrounding areas. We are therefore creating a sustainable agro-forestry project, aimed at repairing severely degraded land. Others are developing community-based industries such as herbal medicines or arts and crafts.)

Conservation-wise, both group ranches are extremely successful, with highly motivated anti-poaching teams. Wildlife is again recognising these areas as safe havens. I recently counted over 450 elephant within sight of Tassia.

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