Ginge Fullen is tough. You need only look at him to see that: his close-cropped, eponymous hair and sculpted face betray a military past. He is also reserved and, in the London bar in which we meet, a little uncomfortable.

These are my first impressions of a man who is currently engaged in a bid to climb to the highest peak of every African nation. There are 53 of those. He's already knocked off 46. But as we look out over the Thames and talk, I soon discover - predictably, perhaps - that Ginge Fullen is not driven by some need to prove his stamina or to improve his hard-man credentials. His motives are rather more philosophical.

[IMAGE1] "I really don't think a two-year expedition is that big a deal," he says. "I just know there are a lot of opportunities out there and it's up to you to take them. I try always to look forward to the next experience, switching off what went before. I want to make sure I don't reach 70 and feel I haven't lived my life to the full."

For the record, Fullen has made previous attempts to avoid that fate. The 35-year-old spent 16 years in the Navy working as a diver - itself an unusually demanding profession - and has already climbed to the highest peaks in every European nation. That feat found him a place in the record books. Not bad when you consider that Fullen broke his neck playing rugby in 1990 and, in 1996, suffered a heart attack at altitude on the side of Everest.

Despite the kick he clearly derived from diving in some of the world's most dangerous waters for a day job and climbing mountains in his holidays, Fullen quit the Navy in 2000, sold his house and began to plan his current expedition. "When I started out it was all about the mountains and the challenge," he explains, "but looking back I can see that I lost sight of that goal very quickly. Friends and places soon became more important." From Angola to Zambia, Fullen has friends he can call on in almost every country in Africa.

"The generosity I've encountered has been amazing," he says. "There's always someone who will look after you or share food with you no matter how poor or remote they are. In Guinea Bissau, where the highest peak is just 662m, the people have nothing. There's no infrastructure and they've just got over a war. I went to a village where I was probably the first white man they've seen since Portuguese colonials. Children screamed and ran. But I was immediately treated as a guest. It's truly amazing."

Of course there have been problems. "I've been arrested more times than I can remember, robbed and deported on several occasions. Bribes are a constant hassle but I never pay up. I sit and wait it out. You just have to be laid-back and take it. You can't get angry. And away from the cities, the police and the bureaucrats, I've been treated with nothing but great friendliness. You can't help but feel there's so much potential for Africa if the ordinary people could be allowed to get on with things their own way."

Fullen isn't one for making political points but he's seen enough to question European attitudes to Africa. "People talk of the ‘Dark Continent'," he laughs, "but to me it's very bright. The children are the greatest thing that Africa has. You only need to wink at a kid to get an amazing smile back. I've seen so much potential and energy among African kids in every country I've visited. That's been a privilege.

"In a village in Niger I remember handing a few inches of Coke to a girl who was begging. She had nothing at all. I looked back a second later and could see her sharing that Coke with all the kids around her - younger kids. She took just a small sip for herself. Here in Britain kids have everything but you do sometimes wonder whether we've lost something, too."

When Fullen is in the field he travels unsupported, but he does have a crew back home to help him out. His expedition secretary Kam Dhaliwal deals with the administration and David Ince, another Navy diver, acts as project manager. Grant Hutchinson, a Scots mountain expert, helps Fullen find the highest points in each nation. Many are unnamed and a surprising number of maps are wrong. Often maps don't exist at all.

"Grant is a genius," says Fullen. "I couldn't do this without him. There have been several occasions where I've climbed a peak only to find out from Grant that the maps and Atlases are wrong and that another point is higher. We're constantly getting new information and revising. Sometimes I can see for myself that somewhere else is higher." Each time that's happened, Fullen has dutifully gone back to climb the "new" highest peak.

[IMAGE2] This is another world record attempt and Guinness need to know the job has been done. When he reaches a peak, Fullen sends Guinness a signal from a small Globalocator device which lets the world record guardians know he's there. You have to admire Fullen's tenacity and attention to detail; each time he goes back to rectify an error and re-write the maps, he's spending more of his own money and prolonging the expedition. "You feel a certain responsibility to do your best," says Fullen. "You see so many people just trying to survive. I'm very aware that the fact I can afford to spend two years climbing every mountain in Africa is a privilege. The expedition charity is MAG, the landmine clearance organisation, and I'm trying to raise awareness and funds for them."

It's getting late and Fullen is due to meet friends at Victoria Station. Tomorrow he goes back to Africa again - to Kenya and Rwanda which, he hopes, will become nations 47 and 48 in his campaign. Africa has clearly made an impression on him and, in turn, Fullen has made an impression on me. As he dives into the Tube and I fight the pavement crowds, I feel a strong impulse to go with him. In his quietly observant way, Fullen would make a fantastic climbing companion in Africa. He's also tough as they come - and that's got to help. Read about Ginge Fullen's favourite African mountains overleaf.

Africa's Highest Challenge has the Patronage of HRH The Prince of Wales. Ginge is still looking for sponsorship for the expedition and for his subsequent plans - to climb the highest peaks in every island nation. If you can help, contact Ginge through the Travel Africa office.

The Mines Advisory Group (MAG) is a British based de-mining and mines awareness charity operating in 8 countries in Africa and 18 worldwide. Donations can be made by writing to MAG, 47 Newton Street, Manchester M1 1FT, by calling Freephone 0800 0723 999 or on-line at www.mag.org.uk


Of Mountains and Mines

Ginge Fullen gives his views on the minefield that is Angola.

Some African peaks require more than just mountaineering skills: I need to understand landmines, of which there are nearly 1000 different types. Africa is the most mined continent in the world, with an estimated 5-7 million devices in Angola alone.

I visited Angola to climb Serra Moco (2619m). Political problems had forced me to postpone a previous attempt, but with the cease-fire following the death of rebel leader Jonas Savimbi, I returned. Serra Moco should have been easy: it's only 6km from the road. But fighting had been fierce in the area. Travel in Angola is tightly controlled by government troops, not least because of landmines (horror stories abound). I endured a long wait for permission and help from the army, which wasn't forthcoming.

Even with continued peace, trekking in Angola will never be like trekking elsewhere. The beautiful countryside won't be freed of mines in my lifetime. Over a quarter of Africa's countries face this situation. It's tragic that I have to talk about this rather than the beauty of Chad's highest mountain or Eritrea's green valleys.

But my Angola trip wasn't fruitless: MAG showed me their operations. De-mining is slow, laborious and frustrating. I left with one simple thought: every mine out of the ground potentially saves a limb or a life.

Six of the Best

Ginge Fullen selects his favourite peaks from the 46 he has climbed to date.

It's difficult to pick my six favourite African mountains. Kilimanjaro, the continent's highest, stands alone majestically; yet sitting near Gambia's highest point (53m), beer in hand at sunset, is among my favourite memories. Like Africa, my choice is varied. People will disagree with my choice. Whatever my suggestions, they will never be right. There'll always be another mountain to climb - and that will never be a bad thing.

Mali: Mt. Hombori
Rising from the desert in south-east Mali, Mt. Hombori is a technical climb. I joined Salvador Campillo, a veteran Spanish climber who has lived here for three decades. We set off at dawn. By sunrise we were already ascending the west side, with spectacular views over the rest of Mali. Soon we had reached the large plateau on top of Hombori, but we still had to walk a kilometre to the highest point.

I didn't expect anything to live in this heat, but there were snakes and many small mammals. People apparently lived for centuries on such plateaux to avoid slave raiders. It's amazing that anybody could climb such difficult peaks back then. Near the cairn Salvador erected over 15 years ago were the ruins of an old village.

Cape Verde: Mt. Fogo
Cape Verde's highest mountain, Mt. Fogo (2829m), on the island of the same name, is as spectacular as you'd expect of an active volcano. I left the small village of Cha das Calaleiras, inside the massive crater itself, heading for the perfect summit cone also contained within. The whole volcano is black volcanic ash with a sinister, threatening look. Books say a guide is necessary due to the route constantly changing as the ash sweeps down. In practice, the climb was simply a two-hour hike up the obvious west ridge.

I set off early, wanting to linger at the top instead of rushing back down as usual. Sometimes it was three steps forward, two back, as I struggled for footing in the ash. In the sulphurous air at the summit, you can see the whole crater (which I estimate is 10-15km in circumference) and, on a clear day, neighbouring islands too.

South Africa: Mt. Mafadi
The two-day hike up Mt. Mafadi (3450m), in the rugged Drakensberg, requires specialist skills, due to the remote terrain and unpredictable weather. You need to reach the large plateau which comprises most of Lesotho, via Leslie's Pass, which is billed as tricky. In truth, it's just a steep hike. I took a GPS mark at the top in case the mist descended. Mafadi lay 7km away. The winter cold was a shock after my trekking around equatorial Africa. As you walk southward towards the highest mountains, there are terrific vantage points from the edge of sheer, 1000m cliffs. From Mafadi's summit, you see less as it's set back from the steep plateau edge.

Niger: Mt. Bagzane
The remote Bagzane Mountains form a large, near-2000m plateau in the central Sahara. Nothing could survive here, I thought. With a local Tuareg guide and a laden donkey, I trekked up one of the few gulleys onto the plateau. After an hour, to my surprise, we reached the first of many villages. Over 300 people lived there, in the nearest I've seen to a lost world. Palm trees and lush green fields dotted the landscape. Camels drew water from deep wells. People lived self-sufficiently, as they had for centuries.

The next day I hiked to the plateau's highest point. Isolation is part of Bagzane's attraction, alongside an old way of life (in place of the harshness you'd expect).

D.R. of Congo / Uganda: Mt. Stanley
The Ruwenzori Mountains are the highest in both Uganda and Congo. Mount Stanley's Margherita Peak (5109m) is Africa's third-highest point. I had always wanted to scale Stanley, first climbed in 1906 by my hero, the Duke of Abruzzi. Glimpsed through the mist and cloud, the peaks look daunting. Even the foothills present dense forest, deep valleys and seemingly impassable rivers. Stanley requires a 5-6-day hike with a guide, porters and armed rangers. It rained and kept on raining. Dry season indeed! Entering the mountains you should see great views of Mounts Stanley, Speke and Baker, but I saw only shadowy silhouettes. The clouds barely cleared long enough for a photo. On summit day, we roped up at the glacier, using crampons and ice axes to follow the trail. The going was comfortable and hardly warranted rope, though there was crevasse danger later. After an hour I glimpsed the mountain, looking less daunting. 200m below the summit we left the glacier and scrambled up a ridge. Five minutes later, I stood on Margherita. The mist-covered Ruwenzoris lived up to their reputation, but the space, history and remoteness make them worth visiting. You might summit Stanley and see only the inside of a cloud or you might, like Abruzzi, see the Mountains of the Moon.

Sao Tome and Principe: Pico Soa Tome
Tiny, delightful Sao Tome is Tarzan territory. As with all jungle peaks, a good guide was essential. I hired Pedro, a small, fit 48-year-old with 12 children. Everybody said he was the best on the island; he turned out to be among the best I'd had in Africa.

We drove from the picturesque capital city (also called Sao Tome) into the centre of the island, until the road ended. Pico Sao Tome was only 7km away but took two days to reach. The path, if there was one, was sometimes tricky, but it was a joy to experience the jungle with such a knowledgeable man as Pedro. We glimpsed unclimbed peaks through the vegetation, but otherwise didn't see the sky until we reached the summit. We scrambled up the near-vertical final cone, aided by a maze of tree roots. Unfortunately cloud obscured the spectacular view that Pedro tried so earnestly to describe.

And Six to Avoid...

("...though I haven't been to Sudan and Libya yet".)
Somalia: Surad Ad
Without effective government or any law and order for several years, Somalia should be completely avoided.
Angola: Morro de Moco
Even with the ceasefire, people are wary of venturing far from places they know to be free of rebel troops and landmines.
Liberia: Mt. Nimba
Liberia is the country I've felt most unsafe in. Politically, it was in self-destruct mode. The authorities shadowed me; for the first time on the whole African expedition, things were really out of my control.
Burundi: Mt. He ha
Burundi is volatile - there's a fragile peace now, but you feel trouble is never far away.
D.R. of Congo: Mt. Stanley
One of my favourites, I know, but you need to carry more guns than any bad guys you might encounter.
Eritrea: Amba Soria
Eritrea has much to offer, but its highest mountain is in a military zone left over from the war with Ethiopia. Beware of unexploded munitions.