Wildernests: Beach Accommodation in Mozambique PDF Print E-mail
Issue 23
Want a coastal holiday but don't know where to stay? Mike Slater outlines your options.

Mozambique has one of the longest and arguably most pristine, beautiful and non-commercialised shores in the world. Much of its 2500km-long Indian Ocean coastline is fringed by virgin coral reefs, untouched by tourism or global warming. If, five years ago, you'd asked for a list of where to stay in Mozambique, the answer could have fitted neatly onto a postcard. But now, reflecting the exponential growth and improvement of its economy and infrastructure, the country offers visitors an enticing choice of beach resorts. Here are some of the best.

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BUDGET
US$8-18 per person per night (camping usually cheaper). Expect: shared bathrooms, self-catering facilities, bar, bed linen not provided, camping available.

Baobab Beach and New Last Resort, Vilanculos
The resort offers an ideal beachside spot for self-drivers, backpackers and overlanders. Located 4km south of Vilanculos town. A taste of authentic Mozambique.
B>Hotel Seta, Inhassoro
Simple seaside chalets metres from the waves, with a secure, tree-shaded camping area and good ablution facilities. A dining/entertaining complex serves well-prepared dishes under mahogany trees on a breezy patio. Scuba diving and boat hire are available during South African school holidays.
Bamboozi Beach Lodge, Tofo
Echoing happy-go-lucky hippie days, this lodge is very friendly, with a huge communal rondavel - or you can escape to the more private chalets. The view and the food from the restaurant are impressive.

MID-RANGE
US$18-30 pp pn.
Expect: en suite bathrooms, public telephones, bed linen, desk fans and mosquito nets.

Praia do Sol, Bilene
Secluded full-board chalets hidden away in indigenous forest, overlooking a stunning lagoon 2km south of Bilene village. A full range of water sports, including diving and deep-sea fishing, is available. www.pdsol.co.za.
Paraíso do Chidenguele, Chidenguele
Self-catering cottages sleeping 4-6 are tucked away in a secluded natural dune forest, each with a sweeping view of the sea.
Barra Lodge Beach Resort, Tofo
Camping facilities, self-catering cottages, a backpackers' bunkhouse, a bar and a restaurant with an extensive menu. Activities include horse riding along the empty beach and into the fascinating mangroves. www.barralodge.co.za
Morrungulo Resort, Massinga
Secure campsites and well-equipped 4-bed, self-catering thatched chalets in a beautiful palm-fantasy setting. www.divetheworld.co.za Casa Rex, Vilanculos Double rooms leading onto a Moorish courtyard, with beautiful hand-crafted decor, a homely Mediterranean ambience and a commanding view of the bay. The excellent seafood restaurant opens onto a cool verandah and tranquil gardens. Fim do Mundo, Mogincual/Nacala
Comfortable chalets or camping on the scenic and remote Rio Mogincual estuary. Fly-fishing, scuba diving nearby in Nacala Bay and game walks during which buffalo and elephant are sometimes seen.
Complexo Naútilus, Pemba
Self-catering 4- and 6-bed chalets are arranged to provide the feeling of a traditional coastal village. Scuba diving and snorkelling are available at Wimbe beach, one of the prettiest in Mozambique. www.goafricatours.co.za
Nkwichi Lodge, Cobúè, Lago Niassa (Lake Malawi)
Few people realise that apart from its coastline, Mozambique has alternative beaches inland alongside the warm, fresh waters of Lago Niassa (better known as Lake Malawi). With empty white beaches on one side and the vast Manda Wilderness on the other, Nkwichi is a fabled find: Real Africa at last.

LUXURY
$30-60 pp pn.
Expect: all the mid-range facilities plus ceiling or pedestal fans, conference rooms, pool, satellite TV lounge and complimentary toiletries. Visa and Mastercard accepted.

Zongoene Lodge, Chonguene
At the mouth of Kipling's romantic "great, grey, green, greasy" Limpopo, the lodge is far from any other resort. The beach is yours for miles. Features include full conference facilities and a private nature reserve. www.zongoene.com
Bazaruto Lodge, Bazaruto Island Roomy
A-framed chalets overlook a small palm-lined coral bay, bordered by a slender sand spit perfect to bathe from. There's an excellent restaurant with an unassuming ambience, a pool bar with a backdrop of forest-covered sand dunes and a century-old lighthouse. Major credit cards accepted. www.pestana.com
Vilanculos Beach Lodge, Vilanculos
Situated 4km north of Vilanculos town, the lodge offers secluded wood and thatch chalets, a pool, an excellent restaurant, scuba diving and water sports. Visa and Mastercard accepted. www.vilanculosbeachlodge.co.za

DELUXE
US$60-140+ pp pn.
Expect: luxury facilities plus air conditioning, in-room satellite TV, 24hr room service, full conference facilities, clinic, gym and shop.

Benguerra Lodge, Benguerra Island
Comfortable chalets connected by raised boardwalks meandering through lush indigenous forest. Enjoy diving, sailing and sundowner cruises, to a backdrop of bird calls and sea breezes. www.benguerra.co.za
Holiday Inn, Maputo
Right on the beach, but just five minutes' drive from the town centre. Part of the fully revamped "marginal" or coastal promenade, which consists of a breezy walkway, restaurants, curio shops, quaint local kiosks and clubs. www.southernsun.com
Hotel Polana and Casino, Maputo
Not strictly a beach resort but you can hear the surf from your room and be awoken by the sun rising above the sea, so who's quibbling? 1920s opulence and grandeur combine with a welcoming ambience. The pool is truly awesome. www.polana-hotel.com
Indigo Bay Island Resort, Bazaruto Island
A sumptuous combination of beach lodge and five-star hotel. Every whim is met by staff who seem to outnumber guests easily. Stylish Afro-Arabian architecture spread over a wide, landscaped area includes a beachside pool and esplanade, while the airstrip and heliport are a short stroll away. Customised outings may include a feast under a genuine Bedouin tent atop the majestic dunes or a conference alongside one of the freshwater lakes. www.raniafrica.com
Marlin Lodge, Benguerra Island
Tucked behind a pristine beach of coral sand, Marlin Lodge consists of 19 wood and reed thatch chalets connected by boardwalks to minimise impact on the fragile dune environment. Activities include snorkelling, scuba diving, sundowner dhow cruises and deep-sea fishing for marlin and sailfish. The lodge has four boats available for charter and also offers 5-day open-water dive certification courses. www.marlinlodge.co.za
Pemba Beach Hotel and MV Fantastique, Pemba
The hotel is situated on a rocky headland adjacent to curving, powder-white beaches and stoic giant baobab trees. Imposing archways, towering turrets and a terracotta coating conjure up an eclectic mix of colonial Africa, Sinbad's Arabia and Kipling's India. The lawns are vast and every room has a commanding sea view. The MV Fantastique is a luxury motor launch with en suite cabins and five-star service, which cruises the idyllic Quirimba Islands. www.raniafrica.com

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