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Issue 25
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Coffee originates from Ethiopia, where it was first discovered in the 9th century. Today it still grows wild in the forest. Contrary to popular belief, large parts of Ethiopia are fertile and green, and it is in these southern highland areas that coffee shrubs grow in abundance. There is no drought in this region and yields are high.
Coffee is the backbone of the Ethiopian economy. The entire crop is organically grown and some of the world's best quality beans are produced here. Ethiopians are extremely proud of their crop, and this is reflected in the simple beauty of the coffee ceremonies which are carried out daily throughout the country.
There are numerous customs surrounding coffee in Ethiopia. In the Oromia region the beans are eaten whole during ceremonies, known as Bunna Qualle, which are carried out to celebrate marriages or bountiful harvests. The beans are cooked in butter as their resemblance to women's sexual organs is believed to encourage fertility. The dish is shared by the whole village, and prayers are made. In Sidamo, in the south-east of the country, the Konso people prefer to prepare a drink from the leaves of the coffee plant. They crush the sun-dried leaves with spices, sunflower seeds and chilli, then boil the mixture with water.
The range of altitudes and landscapes enables Ethiopia to produce many different types of coffee. The beans from areas like Harar and Yirga Cheffe are believed to be some of the world's best for both quality and taste. Coffee from Harar is full-bodied, of medium acidity with a slightly spicy flavor. In contrast, the roast from Yirga Cheffe creates a rich brew with a floral taste.
Coffee is produced by one of two different processes, wet or dry. During wet processing the beans are pulped and kept for several days in fermentation tanks. Afterwards they are washed before passing through sluices onto drying tables. Sun-dried coffee fetches less money commercially but is often cheaper for small producers because they can spread the beans out in front of their homes. Once they are dry, they are sent to be shelled.
Ethiopia is extremely vigilant in the grading of its coffee. This is conducted by the Government's Coffee and Tea Authority prior to auction. Tasting is carried out by professionals, known as cuppers, who check each batch for flavour and consistency. The auctions are carried out daily with open bidding between suppliers and exporters. Only superior beans are available for export.
Kate Eshelby
The Perfect Brew
Before a coffee ceremony fresh grass and flowers are laid on the floor. Green coffee beans are then roasted over the fire in a special pan. After the beans are ground they are placed in a black earthenware pot, known as a jäbäna, containing hot water. The coffee is poured from this into small cups arranged on a raised tray, while incense hangs heavily in the air. It is traditional for each person to drink three cups. On the third one, known as baraka, a blessing is made. Coffee is never served alone. A snack such as injera or popcorn is always placed alongside in a brightly coloured basket. |
