The desert night was electric with anticipation. Swathed in indigo robes and beaming with pride, the revolutionary Tuareg guitar group Tinariwen had taken to the stage. As they launched into song there was an uproar of cheers from the eager crowd. Every man, woman and child could sing at least some of the words, as they danced with wild abandon amongst the sweeping sand dunes of the Sahara Desert.

Having met in Gadaffi's military training camps, Tinariwen swapped their guns for electric guitars as a more peaceful way to bring about change. Playing to audiences around the world, they return home each January to perform at the Festival in the Desert which takes place 65km north west of Timbuktu.

For some four decades, the northern desert region of Mali was wracked by civil war, drought and poverty. Following a return to peace, the Festival was created as a Tuareg initiative to promote the richness of their culture and encourage much needed development in the area. Last year an audience from all over Europe and North America joined locals to enjoy performances from bands such as Robert Plant, Oumou Sangare, Ali Farka Touré and Lojo.

Lasting three days, the Festival of the Desert is a magical mèlée of camel racing, sword fighting, feasting and fantasia. The dramatic opening ceremony witnesses hundreds of camels galloping in welcome beside arriving cars, while the cool, tranquil nights resound to the hypnotic beat of tindé drums.

The Festival is also a photographer's dream. Everywhere you look there is potential for that ‘perfect shot'. The nomadic Tuareg, huddled amongst the white sand dunes, exchanging information and talking about their travels, are only too happy to pose for the camera, while at sunset thousands of candles illuminate the paths s - an unforgettable sight.

Festival in the Desert

The next Festival in the Desert takes place from 9-11 January 2004. This year's line-up includes the outstanding Malian performers Tinariwen, Ali Farka Touré, Habib Koité, Salif Keita, and Amadou and Miriam. Travel packages to the Festival can be arranged through specialist West Africa operators (see the advertisers index on page 127). Alternatively, book flights with Air France, Royal Air Maroc or Point Afrique to Bamako or Mopti and hire a 4x4 vehicle on arrival. Three-day Festival passes cost 100 Euros.
www.festival-au-desert.org