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Rising above the semi-arid Maroua Plain in the far north of Cameroon, the Mandara Mountains lie well off the usual tourist trail. This hauntingly beautiful range of craggy peaks and weathered volcanic plugs rises to the south-west of the small town of Mokolo which, along with the regional capital Maroua, is the most logical base from which to organise a trek.
You can trek independently, hire a guide in Mokolo or arrange a tour at travel agencies in Maroua. Tours usually take in Waza National Park, Maga Lake and villages suchas Maga (with its uniquedomed clay houses), Tourou (where women wear decorated calabash hats demonstrating their marital status and number of children), and Roumsiki (where a maze of paths links small farms amid striking scenery).
Apart from the occasional steep climb or descent, the trekking is not too arduous. Hiking along dusty mountain tracks (where the only other form of transport is by donkey) you will come across stalls of local produce or thatched huts belonging to subsistence farmers. Staying overnight in a mountain community is a highlight of any Mandara trek - as is the supreme sense of isolation and the spectacular scenery that emerges the deeper you probe the valleys.
You may be fortunate enough to spot Rûppel's griffon and Egyptian vultures soaring above the strange pinnacles of rock. The Mandara Mountains are also home to three endemic reptiles and an endangered subspecies of mountain reedbuck. In addition, there are a number of rare and little-studied plants that have affinities with East Africa.
Tourism in this part of Cameroon is still in its infancy. Poor roads and minimal facilities make travelling a challenge. But this is a fascinating region and one of the highlights of Cameroon. It pays to give it time.
Fact File
Travel advisory
Check with the FCO (www.fco.gov.uk) for the latest advice on travel to the border areas with the Central African Republic and Nigeria.
Getting there
Tours and guides can be arranged in Maroua and various mountain villages.
For tailor-made travel packages, consult a specialist West Africa operator; see Travel Connections on page 127 for details.
When to go
The dry season (December to April) is best for birding and walking.
Information
www.mandaras.info for ethnographic information.
West Africa (Lonely Planet, 2002)
West Africa (Rough Guides, 2003).
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