There are some cities in Africa on anyone's must-see list: Cape Town, Cairo and Marrakech spring immediately to mind. Nairobi is not one of them.

Kenya's famous "green city in the sun" could be more accurately described these days as a slum in a pot-hole. This is a pity because beneath its sorry veneer Nairobi is still the economic powerhouse of the region, as evidenced by the almost daily completion of new business premises along the main road out to the airport.

Nairobi is a young city. It began life as a swampy way-station during the building of the Mombasa to Kampala railway line and over the years it just grew. Even today it is not a big city, though it has now lost its village-like feel for good.

Gone too is any charm it may have had. The mirage of sophistication given by the glimpse of shiny new high-rises through the smog is swiftly dispelled as one enters the shattered labyrinth of streets beneath. Here you will find all the contradictions of modern city life the world over: intense development alongside crumbling infrastructure; shiny new Mercedes watched over by glue-sniffing boys.

So why come? Well, although Nairobi itself may not be top of your must-see list, Kenya definitely should be. Few countries can offer coral reefs and glaciers, deserts and rainforest, and some of the best wildlife anywhere. Whatever you want from Africa - traditional cultures, stunning scenery, or just a cheap beach holiday - Kenya has it all. And the chances are that the beginning and end of what will be one of your most memorable trips will be in Nairobi.

How, then, do you make the best of it? Well, a lot depends on your budget and whether you want to experience the Third World or remain resolutely in the First. Both are possible. My first recommendation is to buy yourself a good guidebook to Kenya, an indispensable companion to traveller and resident alike, which will tell you much more than the space here allows.

Like Napoleon's army, most travellers march on their stomachs. Nairobi is well-blessed with both fine eating and cheap nosh. For an evening meal it is worth climbing into a taxi and heading for the suburb of Westlands where the Haandi will serve you arguably the finest Indian food you have had anywhere. Stop Italia will make you feel you are in Italy and the Siam does a reasonable job with Thai cuisine. (There are many more restaurants in Westlands and two hotels - the Landmark and the Holiday Inn Mayfair - and the area is definitely Nairobi's most convenient shopping arena.)

Downtown, the outstanding destination for that special last meal is Alan Bobb's Bistro. Small and funky, it rightly prides itself on the quality and inventiveness of its cuisine. During daylight hours the Norfolk Hotel still retains a vestige of the aura of Kenya past and its Delamere Terrace serves a mean steak and kidney pie braised in Guinness.

Alternatively, a refuge from the rigours of chasing for that last-minute present at the City Market (or, better still, the more relaxed open-air Tuesday Maasai market) is lunch at Pasara in Lonrho House. Not a tourist attraction - it is frequented by Nairobi's middle-class business types - it is a refreshing vision of an upwardly-mobile polyglot Nairobi that is too easy to overlook in the general air of squalor.

Eating aside, what else is there to do? There is a very definite tourist trail for visitors coming to Nairobi, mainly because the choice is relatively limited. Top of the list, unless you are totally gamed-out, is a tour of Nairobi National Park (see Travel Africa edition 1). In the dry season, particularly, this sanctuary, which lies literally at the edge of the city, is teeming with game and offers certainly one of the best places in Kenya for seeing rhino, lion and cheetah at very close range.

Leaving the park, you should make a loop back to Nairobi through the green suburb of Karen - once the home of Karen Blixen, whose Out of Africa is more responsible than anything for Kenya's popularity as a tourist destination. A museum at the top of leafy Karen Road gives an insight into Kenya's colonial past and pleasant views of the Ngong Hills, under which Blixen's lover Denys Finch-Hatton is buried.

On the way there, take a detour to Giraffe Manor where you can experience first-hand the power of a giraffe's prehensile tongue as it plucks pony nuts from your fingers while you stand eye-to-eye with it. It does not take long but will certainly be one of the memories that stays with you longest.

For a day or so, Nairobi can hold the interest. If you are staying longer, the challenge of what to do is greater. The best thing is to come prepared to indulge in your usual pastimes: for example, there are a plethora of superb golf courses; the Hash House Harriers will run you off your feet; or the Mountain Club can direct you to good walks and climbs. In all cases, a bit of preparation will save you from that "if only I...." feeling.

Nairobi's greatest asset is its location. It is only a stone's throw from some of Kenya's most spectacular scenery - a day trip will take you down into the Rift Valley, for instance - and the variety of its opportunities is reflected in the diversity of its residents, both indigenous and expatriate.

So whether you are coming for a day, a week, or a lifetime, there is something in Nairobi for you.

NAIROBI FACTFILE

Transport: A percentage of all Kenya's petrol revenue is supposed to go to the maintenance of it's roads, but there is certainly no evidence of this in Nairobi. Most roads are riddled with potholes and few have road markings. With the recent rains, erosion at the roadside caused further damage. Traffic lights seldom work. Drivers are largely reckless and traffic jams are common.

The worst culprits are the mutatu (commuter bus) drivers, who often park in the middle of intersections to load passengers. Surprisingly, driving is not as difficult as you may think, provided you have a good map and know where you are going.

Expect to battle to find parking spaces in the city centre. You may find that travelling by taxi is your quickest and most stress-free option, but barter with the driver and if you encounter a jam, just walk!

Safety: Like any major city, there is a criminal element in Nairobi. Beggars and street-children will harrass you during the day and it is not advisable to walk through the city at night. Do not give lifts to strangers or flaunt expensive jewellery or cameras.

Travel Planning: Don't buy your safaris from touts on the street. They will promise cheap prices but most are disreputable. Rather visit an established operator - preferably a KATO (Kenya Association of Tour Operators) member.

Accommodation: There is an abundance of hotels in Nairobi, but many are over-rated so check them out before booking in. Hotels worth considering include: The Norfolk, the Grand Regency, the Hilton, the Serena, the Intercontinental, the Fairview, the Holiday Inn Mayfair, the Landmark and the New Stanley.

British-born David Simpson has been living in Nairobi for the last three years. He is the editor of Swara, the magazine for the East African Wildlife Society.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Three: Spring 1998.Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)