All action Africa

Issue 29

So you've adopted Don't just sit there! as your motto. You may even have the tattoo to prove it. Africa's deserts, mountains, forests, beaches and oceans are ready to offer you the ultimate challenge. Judy van der Walt and Emma Gregg have tracked dow 1. A flash of silver Gorilla trekking in Uganda In the Bwindi National Park in south-west Uganda, a mountainous wall of green darkens the day. Deep inside the tangled forest, your party of trekkers walks for hours in silent single file. Then the guide spots a flash of silver. Gorillas. A six foot tall, 700-pound silverback male crashes through the branches, his head made extra long by a crown of muscle and hair. The idea is to scare off his main predators, human beings. He screams, grabs a handful of leaves, stuffs them in his mouth, and strips some more branches for good measure. But mountain gorillas will rarely attack. After making sure he's made a good first impression, the leader allows the human spectators peering through the foliage to relax and watch as his family frolics contentedly. Infants suckle while mothers inspect their coats. A young gorilla rolls over the bent branches that serve as that day's nest. After an hour as one of only twelve people on earth that day to spend time with these gorillas, you trek slowly back to the sunshine of your camp, carrying memories that will always bring a smile to your face. Where else? Join a gorilla trek in the Parc National des Volcans (Volcanoes National Park), Rwanda. Trained guides will lead you through the forest in search of one of four mountain gorilla families which, though wild are, like their Ugandan neighbours, habituated to humans. Or for a close encounter with a family of wild chimpanzees, try a tracking expedition in the Kibale Forest National Park and Kyambura Gorge, QENP, Uganda. In Tanzania you can track chimps in the Mahale Mountains National Park. 2. Take to the air Hot air ballooning in Egypt For an unforgettable take-off, grab a place in a hot air balloon as the sun rises over the Nile and Cairo stirs into life. Float 300m above the ground over the Palace of Hatshepsut on the west bank and, if the weather is right, over Luxor and the Necropolis, ancient cemetery of the Pharaohs. As the balloon wafts over Egypt's temples, villages and mountains, you can smell the cooking fires and hear the conversations below in the early morning stillness. Where else? Soar over the Serengeti or the Masai Mara - hot air balloon trips in Kenya and Tanzania count among East Africa's classic game viewing experiences. Or head to Namibia for the chance to balloon over the Namib desert. Then it's back down to earth with a pop as the pilot cracks open the champagne. 3. In the hands of the gods Free climbing in Mali It's the rock of Africa. The Hand of Fatima shrugs off the arid plains of north-east Mali and casts its sandstone fingers into the dry air, the highest reaching 730m. This holy rock is home to ancestral spirits, and the village chief of Hombori has to grant permission before you start your climb. Fatima is part of the Massif des Aiguilles de Garmi, where more than 140 climbing routes of different types offer climbers of all levels an opportunity to rope up. But only the most experienced of rock climbers dare scale Fatima's flanks, solid quartzite on which drops of sweat sizzle in the morning heat. The rock thrusts vertically upwards in places and difficult overhangs and tricky angles take their toll. This really is a serious challenge. 4. Walk on the wild side Tracking rhinos in Swaziland Tumble out of bed and boost your early-morning adrenaline levels with a rhino-tracking walk in Hlane Royal Reserve in the kingdom of Swaziland. ‘Hlane' means wilderness, and herds of nyala, kudu, wildebeest, zebra and giraffe will divert your attention on your walk over the flat lowland plains of the reserve. Your walk can be tailored to your level of fitness and the distance you'd like to cover. Game rangers will tell you there are few animals as single-minded as a white rhino on the charge, but as long as you stay on the right side of the beast - upwind - you'll be safe. With a good guide you can close in on a rhino in a clump of thousand-year-old tamboti trees and watch him graze undisturbed, his limited sight leaving him unaware of your close presence. Where else? Track and identify desert-adapted black rhino in the Kunene region of north-west Namibia with a patrol from Namibia's Save The Rhino Trust. For a real adventure - and a chance to contribute to the work of the Trust - join a three day patrol, making observations by day and camping in the desert by night. 5. Hug the trees Rainforest adventures in Cameroon Tune in to Africa's heartbeat deep in the forests of Cameroon - trek through the trees and learn about the forest fauna and flora of equatorial West Africa from the Ba'aka Pygmies. 6. Open up the Atlas Mountain trekking in Morocco The Berber tribe of Morocco are perfectly adapted to their nomadic lifestyle in the Atlas Mountains, and you can join them for a few days in the pure mountain air. Trek through valleys draped in wheat fields and visit far-flung villages connected only by mule trails. Your morning wake-up call will be the call to prayer from a tiny mosque. 7. Hit the roof Climbing Kilimanjaro Wrapped in a dazzling white shawl of snow, Mount Kilimanjaro more than lives up to its Swahili name: ‘shining mountain'. It's a six-day climb to Uhuru Peak, Africa's highest point at 5895m, and when you finally reach the summit the euphoria is quickly diluted by the oxygen-starved air - but the sense of achievement is unbeatable. Kilimanjaro requires no technical climbing skills but the altitude claims its victims every year - it's best to proceed slowly, rest often and drink lots of water. To really make a difference, join a "Clean Up Kili" climb and help keep the mountain environment litter-free. Where else? There's only one Kilimanjaro - but Mount Kenya comes a close second and offers its own brand of excitement, complete with giant lobelias and other unearthly-looking vegetation. 8. Reach for the skies Paragliding in Namibia If you've never tried paragliding, the sandy coast near Swakopmund, Namibia, is a great place to learn. Quality thermals over the coastal dunes make for exciting flying; the best conditions of all are from March to May. 9. Work those quads Salt pan quadbiking Early morning at Jack's Camp at the Makgadikgadi National Park in Botswana. The revving up of quad bikes sounds like a pack of animals waking up. You take off over white salt pans that cover an area larger than Switzerland. The destination is Kubu Island, a granite lump of earth where thick-trunked baobabs reach thin branches into the sky and thousands of flamingos flutter into a pink cloud. As night falls and canvas bedrolls are laid out, the silence is broken by the far-off call of a hyena and the stars glitter from one end of the horizon to the other. Where else? In Morocco, take a day or two out from the house party you've thrown in a Marrakech riad to cross the Atlas Mountains and carve up the quadbiking trails in the desert near Ouarzazate. 10. Underwater Mafia Scuba diving in Tanzania Leave the crowded island of Zanzibar behind and head to Mafia Island. It might sound like a gangster hangout but relax - the locals are definitely friendly. Elsewhere in Tanzania dynamite fishing has taken its toll on the reefs but the sea around Mafia has been a national marine park since 1994. Shallow waters suddenly give way to open ocean more than 30m deep where divers can swim with dolphins and turtles. Get close to bountiful sea life such as barracuda, reef rays and moray eels on unspoilt coral reefs. The visibility is often excellent, particularly from October to February.A short boat ride away from Mafia is Chole Island, where six tree houses have been built into mangroves just above the lapping waves at Chole Mjini resort. There's no electricity and no television - the draw cards are solar-powered hot water, four-poster beds, sumptuous food and all the diving you want. Where else?Head for the Red Sea. In Egypt, Hurghada on the mainland and Sharm el Sheikh on the Sinai peninsula are among the world's top scuba centres. Both offer easy access to spectacular wreck and reef diving. For pristine waters that, for the time being, receive less diver traffic, try Marsa Alam further south - a good base for swimming or diving with dolphins. Or, for a crash course in underwater ecology with scuba training thrown in, join a six-week marine conservation expedition in south-west Madagascar. If it's sheer spectacle you're after, it's hard to beat a dive in the thick of the annual sardine run off the coast of Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa, as thousands of sharks, dolphins and other fish-eaters tear after the migrating shoals. It's strictly for experienced divers, and you need to be there in June. To subscribe or order this issue click here 11. Adrenaline central Non-stop action at Vic Falls Adrenaline junkies converge on Victoria Falls, where the thundering waters of the Zambezi separate Zambia from Zimbabwe. Livingstone Town on the Zambia side is extreme sport HQ. Sign up for whitewater rafting, jet boating, or gorge swinging. You can bungee jump off the Vic Falls Bridge, or riverboard some of the world's biggest fresh water standing waves. If you still want more, then go along for the ride with an expert in a two-man kayak who will lead you through the crashing rapids. Maxed out on the river? The Nakavango Estate has the perfect antidote: a trundle through the bush on elephant back. Where else?If the Vic Falls bungee just wasn't quite extreme enough for you, try the Bloukrans River Bridge in South Africa - at 216m it's Africa's highest. 12. Hang out with the locals Abseiling off Table Mountain Walk backwards over the edge of South Africa's Table Mountain, with the ocean 1000m below you, a balcony of bemused faces at the top and 112m of sheer rock face waiting. In spite of what every instinct in your body tells you when you lower yourself into the abyss, abseiling is an activity with a low risk factor. With a double rope system, a secure harness, a guide at the top and another at the bottom, your chance of descending safely down the rock is virtually 100%. And somehow, when you're dangling off a rope with nothing below you, the view tattoos itself onto your memory in a way a cable car ride never can. 13. Take a dip Snorkelling in the Seychelles Combing the sky with its mountainous ridge, Silhouette Island lies like a half-sunken dinosaur in the turquoise waters of the Seychelles. There is only one lodge on this undeveloped and mysterious island. Snorkel in the hidden colourful landscape to discover the abundance of neon-coloured fish around coral reefs and the parrotfish and triggerfish further out. You may be lucky enough to spot a shy feathertail stingray hiding in a dark crevice and you can literally stay in the warm water for hours. Where else? Mozambique has some of the best snorkelling on Africa's east coast. Try the aptly named Aquarium within Two Mile Reef to the north of Isla de Benguerra. In Kenya, the Watamu Marine National Park near Malindi and Kisite Marine Park on the south coast are off-limits to fishermen, making them prime snorkelling territory. November to March is the best time. 14. Get wet Surfing in South Africa South Africa's surfers are said to be the friendliest in the world - and they craft a fine board. Test-pilot your new flying machine in the towering waves that pound the Kwa-Zulu Natal coast all the way to the Mozambican border. 15. Ultimate high Microlighting over The Gambia Two thin slivers of land lie crinkled on both sides of the River Gambia, shaping this tiny country. Meet Will Knowles at your beach hotel and take off in his microlight from its parking spot at Banjul International Airport, to fly low over the river. The heart of The Gambia beats at a gentle pace below with fishermen casting their nets, farmers tending their rice fields and traders plying the waters. There are many unspoilt, bird-rich wilderness spots along the river including the Tanbi Wetlands, where you may see herons, egrets and peilcans. Look closely and you may spot monkeys leaping through the mangroves. Where else? Inhale the musky aroma of the spray as you zip through the rainbows over Victoria Falls, Zambia - the view of the cataracts from the back of a microlight is utterly unforgettable. 16. Me Tarzan Canopy tour in the Tsitsikamma Swing through the jungle in the Tsitsikamma Forest on South Africa's garden route. Leap from a launch platform kitted out in full body harness, helmet and thick gloves (to act as brakes) and enjoy a soaring sense of freedom up among the branches. A circuit of viewing platforms 30m above the forest floor are connected by lengths of high-tensile cable which allow you to slide from station to station and monkey around, high in the giant yellow-wood trees. The three-hour adventure gives you a whole new perspective on forest ecology. Where else?The canopy walk in Kakum National Park, Ghana, is excellent for birdwatching. Drink in the views of the bird-rich rainforest canopy as you make your way along bridges made from cable, rope and planks, slung between the trees, 40m up. 17. Spice it up Sailing the Kenyan coast in a dhow Follow the Arabian spice route northwards along the Kenyan coast from Mombasa to the old Swahili port of Lamu in a dhow with billowing triangle sails. You can choose from the most basic dhows to 20m sambuks with full decks below, but the wind blows the same knots for all. Along the way the shopping will come to you in floating dugout canoe markets selling brightly coloured cloths, baskets and spices. In the village of Shela the dhows are built and maintained in a scene that could have been frozen in a time capsule. 19. Growling rapids and shooting stars Kunene river expedition On the Kunene River dividing Namibia and Angola the rapids growl like wild animals. It's a five-day paddle through the heartland of the Himba, one of Africa's last semi-nomadic tribes, from the Onduruso Gorge to Epupa Falls. By night the Makalani palm trees cut the Milky Way into spiky quarters and trails of starlight shoot earthwards. The multi-talented river guides don't just come to your rescue in the rapids - they also know how to slow roast a leg of lamb on a bed of coals, and style a camping spot like a film-set under a huge sycamore tree. At Epupa the Kunene splinters the arid landscape with dozens of blindingly white falls, and huge baobab trees cling to the burnt-orange rocks. Where else?Get a heron's eye view of Namibia's beautiful Richtersveld while paddling the Orange River, or venture into one of Africa's remotest regions by joining a rafting expedition on the Omo River in Ethiopia. 20. Race over the dunes Desert driving by 4x4 in Namibia The shifting dunes of the Namib are the backdrop for the ultimate 4x4 trip from Luderitz to Walvis Bay on the Namibian coast. Driving up and over 80m dunes gets the heart pumping. But be sure to choose a reputable operator who ensures that vehicles follow trails or stick to the soft slopes where tracks are quickly covered over, to minimise environmental damage. 21. Swim with the horses Maputaland horse safari An eight-day Maputaland trail shows you the best of the north-eastern coast of South Africa. But it's not all hard riding. Enjoy long gallops on the beach, ambles through small villages and gentle canters through the grassland, then take the horses for a swim in Maputaland's lakes. When they (and their riders) need a break, take an excursion to Tembe Elephant Park or go snorkelling in Rocktail Bay, where there is a good chance of seeing dolphins. Qualified divers can opt for a scuba dive instead. In season (November to February), you can take a moonlight walk down the beach to see turtles laying eggs or hatching. Where else?Canter alongside speeding giraffe in the Okavango Delta, Botswana, or rein in and just watch - the back of a horse provides the perfect vantage for game viewing. Leave only footprints The ultimate challenge for adventure enthusiasts is to safeguard the environment they explore, says Judy van der Walt. Two years ago Nelson Mandela made a speech in Durban, South Africa to a group of environmentalists in which he said: "A devastated geography makes for a devastated people. Let us stand together to make our world a sustainable source for our future as humanity on this planet."There have been times in human history when Africa has been scarred, ravaged and exploited. But the continent has guarded many of its best secrets for those who make the effort to seek them out. The adventure activities we have selected reflect Africa's diversity of landscapes and her treasure chest of natural beauty. Our selection is not about a mindless adrenaline binge, but about a discovery of places and people, many of them unique on the planet. As we explore the continent and experience the remarkable spirit of ubuntu - the all-embracing African word for the essence of humanity - we realise that Africa is not our playground. It is a place that we are privileged to visit and we carry the responsibility to ensure that we don't contribute to even the smallest devastation. Find out more Many tour operators based in the UK, USA and elsewhere can co-ordinate bookings for adventure activities run by Africa-based activity companies. For specialist information, here are some pointers to get you started. AbseilingAbseil Africa www.abseilafrica.co.za Atlas Mountain trekkingTribes Travel www.tribes.co.ukWilderness Travel www.wildernesstravel.com Bungee jumpingFace Adrenalin www.faceadrenalin.comAfrican Adrenalin www.africanadrenalin.com Canopy touringStormsriver Adventures www.stormsriver.comTree Top Tours www.treetoptour.comConservation International Ecotravel Centre www.ecotour.org Desert drivingCoastways Tours www.coastways.com.na Elephant encountersLiving with Elephants Foundation www.livingwithelephants.org Free climbingSaga Tours (Bamako) www.sagatours.com Gorilla and chimp trekkingDiscovery Initiatives www.discoveryinitiatives.comThe Far Horizons www.thefarhorizons.comVolcanoes Safaris www.volcanoessafaris.comWWF Seeing is Believing www.wwf.org.uk Horseback safarisMaputaland Safaris www.maputaland.netAfrican Horseback Safaris www.africanhorseback.com Hot air ballooningCC Africa www.ccafrica.comMagic Horizon Balloons www.magic-horizon.comSerengeti Balloon Safaris www.balloonsafaris.com Kilimanjaro and Mount KenyaEco-resorts www.eco-resorts.comGecko's Adventures www.geckos.com.auIntoAfrica www.intoafrica.co.uk MicrolightingBatoka Sky www.batokasky.comMadox Microlights www.madoxmicrolights.com Mountain bikingBicycle Africa www.ibike.org/bikeafrica ParaglidingNamibia Tourism www.namibiatourism.com QuadbikingAfriTourism www.afritourism.comCLM Leisure www.clmleisure.co.ukSiyabona www.botswana.co.za Rainforest adventuresDreamWeaver Travel www.dreamweavertravel.net Rhino trackingSave The Rhino Trust (Namibia) www.desertrhino.comSunvil Africa www.sunvil.co.ukSwaziland's Big Game Parks www.biggameparks.org River expeditionsFelix Unite www.felixunite.comHigh and Wild www.highandwild.co.uk SailingSail Kenya www.sailkenya.comPilli Pipa www.pillipipa.com Scuba divingBaobab Travel www.baobabtravel.comBlue Ventures www.blueventures.orgOonasdivers www.oonasdivers.com SnorkellingBenguerra Lodge www.benguerra.co.zaBest of Kenya www.bestofkenya.comSilhouette Island Lodge www.silhouette-seychelles.com SurfingWavescape www.wavescape.co.za Victoria FallsShearwater Adventures www.shearwateradventures.comZambia Tourism www.zambiatourism.com

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