Into the depths of the unknown

Deep in Botswana's north-west wilderness are some subterranean caves which could hold significant clues to the secrets of the Kalahari. Mike Main discovers the seldom-visited Drotsky's Caverns.

Mantled by sand, set in a sea of ancient dunes, the still-unspoilt caverns that Martinus Drotsky was first shown by Bushmen in 1932 are remarkable. It is extraordinary that, despite the near desert conditions of today, this entire system of caverns was carved from the living rock by huge quantities of flowing water and may have existed for many million years.

From Maun, in Botswana's north-east, the caves are eight hours' drive through thick sand, in four-wheel-drive vehicles. The area is remote, hostile in the extreme. There is no water, there are no people, no stores, no petrol to help if anything goes wrong. The sense of isolation is complete.

Because of their remoteness and difficulty of access, probably less than a few hundred people have visited them since they were discovered. Those who have braved the difficult journey have found it an extraordinary experience. There are no guides, other than common sense and caution, to conduct a visitor round the caves but sensible individuals need fear little danger.

There are two systems of caves and tunnels, at slightly different levels, connected by a single passage. Each system has its own entrance, caused by the collapse of a cavern roof. A conspicuous feature at one of the entrances is a curtain of great pillar-like stalactites that hang from the ceiling and seem like a medieval portcullis, apparently guarding the entrance to a forbidden underworld.

Evidence of an earthquake in the last million years underlines the geological links between these caves, the nearby Okavango Delta and the great East African Rift Valley of which the Delta forms the most southerly, and still active, extension.

Beyond the entrance, a maze of passages is found. Most were formed by incredible volumes of water that dissolved the solidrock. Some walls are smooth to the touch and exhibit the characteristic curve of those worn by running water. Other passages are huge, as much as three or four metres wide and twice that in height. Occasionally, awesome blocks of stone hang suspended from the roof, like gigantic keels or guillotine blades, caught and held, frozen in their downward flashing fall, a prisoner of time in the eternal darkness of the caverns.

A powerful torch will reveal exquisite abstract patterns etched into the rock, echoing different chemical reactions to the slightly acid water. The result is often a kaleidoscope of subtle colours: pinks, mauves, reds and soft shades of grey that blend and, stunning the eye and provoking the senses, seem to dance in the bright light of lanterns.

Many of the walls support spectacular natural formations of flowstone. Water, laden with dissolved calcium carbonate, enters the air-filled cave where the solids are re-deposited as the water evaporates. Brilliantly white and highly crystalline, this deposit builds up slowly, layer upon layer over many thousands of years.

Imperceptibly, the most exquisite and delicate of shapes are formed and set. Infinitesimally, the structures grow and drop by drop create frozen waterfalls, organ pipes, beautiful stalactites, fairy palaces and a host of enchanting shapes. But more importantly, such formations play a major role in revealing climate change. The Kalahari (more than 2 million km2 of sand) has not always been the grass-and shrub-covered wilderness it is today but has many times passed from tropical forest to baking desert. The permanent records of rainfall in millennia past, captured in the flowstones of this cave, play a vital role indiscovering these changes.

With deeper penetration of the labyrinth, colonies of grotesque but fascinating leaf-nosed bat are disturbed. Suddenly, between the myriad columns that support the roof, a multitude of these creatures take flight and the air is filled with the beat of their wings and their chorus of high-pitched sounds. Generally, they try to avoid a person, and they certainly do not deliberately attack.

Near the entrances, sand has drifted a short way into the darkness. Further in, the floor covering changes to a great thickness of guano which deadens the footfall and accentuates the disturbing, tomb-like silence of the caves. Sitting quietly, alone and without a light for a few minutes, brings one closer to the magic of this remarkable place. The silence engulfs one like a shroud and seems tangible.

Deep in the stillness of Drotsky's cave, one is indeed close to the heart of some of Africa's last remaining wilderness.

DROTSKY'S CAVES FACTFILE

Proper Name: Gcwihaba Caverns

Environmental Care: The caves have a very fragile environment and can be easily damaged. One of the reasons the caves are not heavily promoted is the potential damage caused by visitors. It cannot be stressed enough that visitors should not deface the caves in any way and do not leave litter lying around.

Getting There: Tour operators in Botswana can include visits to the Caves as part of your itinerary and it is strongly recommended that first time visitors try this option. The operator who visits there perhaps the most is Tsodilo Safaris, based in the nearby Tsodilo Hills.

If going self-drive, the caves are an eight hour drive (289km) from Maun. Four-wheel-drive is essential as you will travel through thick Kalahari sand. The 142km stretch from Maun to Tsau is on tar, so will pass quite quickly, but the remainder of the trip is arduous driving and not very well signposted. Buy a copy of the Visitors Guide to Botswana (available through Travel Africa's mail order division, p82), which gives good directions.

The nearest fuel to Drotsky's is at Maun or Etsha-6, but you may find petrol at Gumare. It is advised to stock up with a minimum of 2 days supply.

Accommodation: The nearest village is Caecae, 36km and 1.5 hours drive away. Most visitors camp overnight at Drotsky's but it is essential to be self-sufficient as there is not even any water available!

Other Attractions: Exploration has discovered four new cave sites in the area but until the significance of these are studied, details are not being made public.

While in the area, perhaps consider visiting the Aha Hills, 50km past Drotsky's near the Namibian border. Rising from a vast dune-field, the hills are made of limestone, dolomite and marble, forming a plateau some 245km2 in extent. In addition to magnificent views of real Kalahari country, the hills offer the excitement of a largely unexplored area.

Mike Main is an experienced traveller and the author of three books: Zambezi, Journey of a River, Kalahari, Life's Variety in Dune and Delta and the Visitor's Guide to Botswana.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Three: Spring 1998. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)