Essential Africa: Uganda

Issue 30

Uganda is where the East African savannah meets the West African jungle. With boiling rapids, lofty mountains and challenging hiking trails, it’s one of the world’s great adventure destinations – and it’s spectacularly rich in wildlife too. Philip Briggs, author of the Bradt Guide to Uganda, shortlists the country’s most compelling attractions and puts together three two-week itineraries to excite the interest of the first-time visitor, the birdwatcher and the adventure enthusiast. Uganda is the smallest of the select quartet of African countries in which more than 1,000 bird species have been recorded, and its sweltering lowland rainforests ring with an infinitely varied dialogue of birdsong – accompanied by the excited hooting of chimpanzees.   It’s home to approximately half of the remaining global population of the endangered mountain gorilla, which can be tracked to within metres in Bwindi and Mgahinga National Parks. Meanwhile, immense herds of grazing antelope and buffalo inhabit the grassy plains of Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks. There is no other country where you can watch lions stalk the Rift Valley plains one day, track mountain gorillas through their misty mountain home the next, and follow this up by paddling a dugout into a papyrus swamp to eyeball the iconic shoebill. Three of Africa’s ten highest mountains – Mount Stanley in the snow-capped Ruwenzoris, Karisimbi in the petulantly volcanic Virungas, and the more placid Mount Elgon – lie partially within Uganda. The country’s natural diversity is further boosted by the presence of great waterways such as the Nile, which rises from Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater body, to flow briefly through the almost-as-vast Lake Albert. Fully recovered from the turmoil of the Amin years, Uganda offers a range of tourist facilities – from luxury tented camps to rustic backpacker hostels – befitting its considerable ecological wealth. To subscribe or order this issue click here Semliki Valley The awesome scenery of the Semliki Valley, nestled between the Ruwenzori Mountains and Lake Albert, is matched by its impressive biodiversity. Semliki National Park boasts 40 Congolese forest bird species unrecorded elsewhere in East Africa. The Semliki Wildlife Reserve offers decent game viewing (with a high chance of spotting shoebill) and the most luxurious tented camp in Uganda. Kibale Forest National Park Best known for its superb chimp-tracking, Kibale harbours six other readily observed primate species, including two types of colobus and the white-bearded L’Hoest’s monkey. A wide range of monkeys and forest-fringe birds can be observed along an excellent community-run trail through Bigodi Wetland on the park border. Ruwenzori Mountains Boasting three glacial peaks that top the 5,000m mark, the Ruwenzori runs for almost 120km along the Congolese border north of QENP. The peak area is suitable only to experienced mountaineers, but a challenging six-day loop trail through the forest and moorland zones exposes hikers to some of the most lushly surreal vegetation Africa has to offer. Queen Elizabeth National Park Arguably East Africa’s most ecologically diverse game reserve, QENP is a good place to see elephant, buffalo, hippo and large herds of kob (Uganda’s national antelope). Other highlights include tree-climbing lions at Ishasha and the giant forest hogs along the Kazinga Channel. QENP’s bird checklist of 600-plus species (including the crowned crane, below) exceeds that of many African parks ten times the size. Bwindi National Park Uganda’s most important gorilla tracking destination, offering a total of 22 tracking permits to four different troops daily, the jungle-swathed hills of Bwindi are also wonderfully scenic. The park’s rich faunal diversity includes a wide range of forest antelope and monkey, and 23 bird species endemic to the Albertine Rift. Mgahinga National Park Protecting Uganda’s portion of the Virungas, this scenic park bordering Rwanda and the DRC forms a popular alternative gorilla tracking destination to Bwindi. Other attractions include habituated troops of golden monkey (an Albertine Rift endemic) and challenging day ascents to three volcanic peaks: Muhavura (4,127m), Sabinyo (3,669m) or Gahinga (3,475m). Lake Bunyonyi Situated a couple of hours’ drive south of Bwindi, the islands and shore of this serpentine lake (above right) are studded with resorts to suit all tastes. Bunyonyi translates as ‘Place of Small Birds’, but more impressive perhaps is its dense otter population – there’s surely no better place in Africa to see these delightful aquatic mammals at play. Lake Mburo National Park Centred on the lake for which it is named, this small national park is a popular place to break up the long trip between Kampala and Bwindi. It’s the only place in Uganda where you are likely to see zebra, impala and eland, as well as a host of colourful acacia woodland birds more normally associated with Tanzania. Mabamba Swamp Best explored in the company of a local boatman, this papyrus swamp fringing the Lake Victoria shore makes for an easy and affordable day trip from Kampala or Entebbe, yet it’s as reliable a locality as any in the country for sighting the bizarre shoebill, along with a host of other water-associated birds. Ssese Islands Although it’s lost ground in the popularity stakes to the more accessible Lake Bunyonyi in recent years, this archipelago of 84 forested islands in Lake Victoria makes for an idyllic post-safari chill-out venue, especially for birdwatchers, or game fishermen hoping to land an outsized Nile perch. Entebbe Set memorably on Lake Victoria some 40km distant of the capital Kampala, Entebbe, the main port of entry to Uganda, could scarcely provide a more pleasant starting point for a safari. Attractions include Entebbe Botanical Garden, with its rich birdlife and resident monkeys, and nearby Ngamba Island, which serves as a sanctuary for orphaned chimpanzees. Bujagali Falls Situated on the White Nile about 10km downriver of its source at Jinja, Bujagali Falls is emerging as East Africa’s answer to the more southern ‘adrenalin capital’ of Victoria Falls. Rafting a series of Grade Five rapids along the Nile is the main attraction, but other activities include bungee jumping, quad biking and kayaking. Kasubi Tombs Prior to the colonial era, various hills around Kampala served as successive capitals of Buganda, the centuries-old kingdom for which Uganda is named. The most impressive extant relic of those times is Kasubi (above), where a vast thatched hilltop dome built in the 1880s by King Mutesa now serves as the tomb of four former monarchs. Murchison Falls National Park Centred on the eponymous waterfall, Murchison Falls National Park is Uganda’s largest conservation area and offers some of its finest game-viewing. Lion, elephant, buffalo, Rothschild’s giraffe and patas monkey are common along the tracks around the Nile Delta, while boat trips reliably involve close encounters with hippos, crocs and various water birds. Budongo Forest Reserve Ideal for budget travellers seeking an affordable ape-tracking experience, Busingiro Tourist Site – set in the heart of this vast, bird-, butterfly- and primate-rich forest but accessible on public transport from Masindi – offers a superb package including entrance fees, chimp-tracking and rustic accommodation for little more than £10 per night. To subscribe or order this issue click here Plan your Ugandan Itinerary! The itineraries that follow include a general circuit that would suit most first-time visitors with a broad interest in savannah and forest fauna, a route designed to appeal to birdwatchers and a tailor-made tour for hikers and adventure enthusiasts. Best of Uganda Murchison Falls Kibale Forest Queen Elizabeth National Park Bwindi National Park Day 1: Entebbe Land and sleep at Entebbe, using any spare time to visit the botanical garden or Kasubi. Day 2-4: Murchison Falls Take a day to drive to Murchison Falls, then two days to explore the Nile Delta game-viewing circuit, take a boat trip to the base of the falls, and enjoy the viewpoint at the top of the falls. Day 5-6: Kibale Forest After a long drive on day five, stretch your legs on day 6 with a half-day chimp tracking expedition and half-day Bigodi Swamp walk. Day 7-9: QENP Ideally spend two nights at the park headquarters at Mweya, where there is a lodge and campsite, and which serves as the best base for launch trips on the Kazinga Channel and for game drives on the Kasenyi Plains. Then spend one night at Ishasha (if camping) or Jacana Lodge in the Maramagamba Forest (if using upmarket lodges). Day 10-14: Bwindi National Park to Entebbe Gorilla tracking (which MUST be booked well in advance) on morning of day 11, followed by a forest walk the next morning if you still have energy! Then head back towards Entebbe with overnight stops at Lake Bunyonyi (day 12) and Lake Mburo National Park (day 13). Best of Uganda Mabamba Swamp Bwindi National Park Semliki Valley Murchison Falls Day 1: Entebbe Land and sleep at Entebbe, visiting the bird-rich botanical garden. Day 2: Mabamba Swamp and Lake Mburo Search for shoebill and pygmy goose in Mabamba Swamp. A late afternoon boat trip on Mburo often yields African finfoot, Ross’ Turaco and pennant-winged nightjar. Day 3-5: Bwindi National Park Morning bush walk at Mburo. Drive to Bwindi, birding in and around camp until nightfall. Allow one full day to explore the trails around Buhoma, and another to walk the Mubwindi Swamp Trail in search of rarities such as African green broadbill. Day 7-10: Kibale Forest and Semliki Valley Head northwards via QENP to Kibale Forest and Semliki Valley. Birding highlights include the launch trip at QENP, Bigodi Swamp (best in the morning) and Semliki National Park (where serious birders ought to camp, or take a basic room at nearby Bundibugyo, rather than visit as a day trip from the upmarket lodge in Semliki Wildlife Reserve). Day 11-14: Murchison Falls Spend two nights in the park – game drives north of the Nile and launch trips to the falls both offer great birding. Try to make time for the self-guided trail through the riverine woodland around Nile Safari Camp. If you missed the shoebill at Mabamba, hire a private boat to seek them out in the delta. Spend night 13 camping in Budongo Forest. Return to Entebbe on day 14. All-Action Uganda Rafting the Nile Mgahinga National Park Ruwenzori Mountains Gorilla and chimp tracking Day 1-2: Kampala & Bujagali Falls Spend your first two nights at Kampala, checking out the club and bar scene, with a day trip to raft the Grade Five rapids at Bujagali Falls on day 2. Day 3-5: Mgahinga National Park Day 3 will be consumed by the drive from Kampala. Arrange a gorilla tracking permit in advance for day 4 or 5, then use the spare day for one of the hikes to the volcanic peaks of the Virungas – a great hike in itself and a useful high-altitude primer for the Ruwenzori. Day 6-12: Ruwenzori Mountains On day 6, drive to Kasese, the town closest to the trailheads. Then spend days 7-12 following the dramatic and demanding loop trail through the forest and moorland below the 4,000m contour, camping at the designated sites en route. Day 12-14: Back to Entebbe After the long last day’s descent, you might want to treat yourself to two nights of luxury at QENP’s Mweya Lodge, which is about 30-45 minutes drive from Kasese. Alternatively, spend night 12 in Kasese and break up the trip back to Kampala with an afternoon chimp tracking excursion on day 13 and a night camping in Kibale Forest. Tips on tracking gorillas and Chimpanzees When tracking mountain gorillas, you’ll be tackling difficult terrain. It can be particularly heavy going in the wettest months (Mar-May and Oct-Nov). Game viewing roads in some reserves may become impassable during these months, and footpaths through the Ruwenzori become even more of a quagmire than normal. Chimpanzees range most widely when no trees are in fruit. Your best chance of seeing chimps is to join a tracking expedition during the fruiting months of May to September; you’re likely to have less success in October to January, when food is most scarce. One of the most colourful traditional ceremonies in Uganda is the protracted build-up to male circumcision among the Bagisu people. This takes place all over the Mount Elgon foothill region from August to December in even numbered years. Uganda Factfile Language: English and Luganda Time zone: GMT+3 International dialling code: +256 Visas: Visas are required by most visitors, UK nationals included. They can be bought on arrival at Entebbe with a minimum of fuss Health: Malaria is widespread; prophylactics should be taken. A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required. Consult your doctor for further advice. Money: Uganda shilling. UK £1 = 3350 Ush, US$1 = 1725 Ush. Travellers’ cheques and credit cards are of limited use outside of the capital. Getting there: British Airways flies direct to Entebbe from the UK three times a week. Other major carriers include SN Brussels, South African Airways, Kenya Airways and Ethiopian Airlines. Getting around: The best way to see the game reserves is on an organised safari, which normally entails travelling in one or two 4x4 vehicles. Most places of interest can be visited using public transport, which mostly consists of coaches and minibus-taxis driven at insane speeds! Places to stay: Mid-range and upmarket lodges or camps are now available at most key tourist sites. Rates start at around UK £100 double. Budget travellers have a wide choice of inexpensive local hotels, backpacker hostels and campsites. Safety: Travel is generally safe. Crime directed against tourists is unusual, even in the capital. The one major no-go area is the far northwest, which has been embroiled in civil war for a decade. Consult the FCO travel advice service (www.fco.gov.uk) for the latest advice. Gorilla permits: Gorilla tracking permits MUST be reserved and paid for in advance, and are often booked solid for months ahead, especially during the dry season. Bookings can be made through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (see website below) or through any specialised tour operator. Find out more Websites: Uganda Tourist Board (www.visituganda.com). Official website; a good online information source. Uganda Wildlife Authority (www.uwa.or.ug). Includes up to date information on gorilla tracking permits etc. Guidebooks: Uganda: The Bradt Travel Guide by Philip Briggs (4th edition, 2003). Footprint Uganda Handbook by Michael Hodd & Angela Roche (1st edition, 2002). Safaris: Reliable and experienced operators include Wild Frontiers (www.wildfrontiers.com) and Volcanoes Safaris (www.volcanoessafaris.com).

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