Mountain Special - Kilimanjaro

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Issue 33

So you like a challenge? Try this for size. Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak, is the stuff of legend. And because you don’t need to be an experienced mountaineer to climb it, thousands of people make the attempt every year. But, while the ascent may not be a technical climb, it’s taxing – and potentially dangerous, too, if you misjudge your kit, your route, your guides, and your timing. Get it right, says Alex Stewart, and get ready to experience a hard-won natural high. Few names have such a powerful resonance. It echoes like a spell, evoking awesome images on a par with Xanadu, Timbuktu or Machu Picchu. It signifies somewhere special. One of the largest volcanoes and the highest mountain in the world that’s freestanding, rather than part of a range, Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro towers 5895m above sea level. Kilimanjaro is a quintessential African icon that dominates the tawny savannah of northern Tanzania and southern Kenya. On a clear day it is visible from Nairobi, yet at times, when the sun is low and the clouds light, the enormous, square, snow-capped summit appears to be floating in space. At such times Kilimanjaro appears almost supernatural in its beauty. As the highest point on the African continent, Kilimanjaro is one of the coveted Seven Summits, yet it is possible to reach the top without any technical climbing ability. With its readily accessible slopes, abundance of porters and relatively mild climate, the trek to the summit is considered a moderately easy ascent in mountaineering circles. Even so, surprisingly few people make it all the way there. My Kili: Push to the Top Having been shaken awake by our porters at midnight, following a few, fitful hours sleep plagued by strange dreams, we had dressed hastily in the bitter cold and inky darkness. Swaddled in layers of clothing and waterproofs, equipped with head-torches and trekking poles, we had begun the ponderous progress up the steep, frozen incline in a bid to be on the summit for sunrise. Above us an almost full moon, huge and gold in the equatorial sky, starkly silhouettes Mount Kibo, rendering it awesome and imposing in scale. The sheer majesty of the mountain makes it appear inviolable. Our guide mutters encouragement and softly intones the Kilimanjaro mantra, pole, pole, slowly, slowly. As the clouds cover the moon, it becomes darker and colder. Simultaneously, the gradient increases. Even more exposed than before, the bitter, biting wind tugs at us relentlessly. We are now solely reliant on our head-torches. An hour later the cold has killed the batteries in them and we are in darkness. Our guide continues to nudge us along, cajoling us with the promise that we are close now. He first said that three hours ago. The hypnotic trudge continues, as does the endless and enormous task of stepping in the dumb footprints of the climber clambering across the enervating scree ahead of me. The photojournalist John Reader calculated that the distance covered from Kibo Hut to the crater rim along Kilimanjaro’s most popular ascent route, the Marangu Route, was equivalent to nine Empire State buildings laid end to end at a sixteen degree angle, not dissimilar to scrambling up a staircase rather more than three kilometres long. The reason so many people fail to make the top is that at 4710m, where the start of the final ascent begins, there is little more than half the density of oxygen found on Manhattan or at the foot of most staircases. “So, in effect,” Reader summarised, “the aspiring climber attempts the equivalent of these feats with the equivalent of only one lung.” He goes on to conclude that “The result is agonising, there is no other word for it.” The pure drudgery dulls even our most resilient spirit and the sheer exertion required means that there is very little spare energy for talking. Equally, there is nothing in the repetitive nature of this final stage of the trek to hold our attention, bump my thoughts from snippets of song on heavy rotation or disturb the incessant repetition of snatches of conversation in my head. The serious complication on an ascent of Kilimanjaro is “the high likelihood of acute mountain sickness”, as our guide had solemnly stated at the start of the trek. A few sentences later he had mentioned something about this being potentially fatal. At 5am, alone in the dark with your thoughts, it’s hardly a confidence booster to relive this warning again and again. Meanwhile, the sky is lightening and already a blood-red band is visible on the horizon. Wire thin, it signifies that the sun is almost ready to dawn over the Indian Ocean. Coaxing each other on, we arrive at the crater rim. From here it is still a lengthy slog to Uhuru Peak, a remarkable, other-worldly place. The blasted rock and shattered slopes give it a harsh air, whilst the improbable icefields and eternal snows decorate the rim and upper slopes. The landscape is akin to a still raw wound, redolent of the earth’s violent, explosive past. The view from here is utterly breathtaking. As the dawn bursts behind the threatening, jagged mass of Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s second summit, myriad hues of yellow, orange and red erupt across the whole sky. In the thin and freezing air, every line and every colour is sharp. Everything is jagged. There are no curves, no fading, no blurring. The rugged beauty is astounding. Little wonder that the local Wachagga tribe believe that the mountain is the abode of their god, N’gai. Overcome by a sense of awe, trekkers gawk at the scene unfolding before them. Tears of frustration and pent-up effort give way to tears of relief as they watch this most exquisite sunrise. To subscribe or buy this edition, click here Six Ways to Summit The ascent of Kilimanjaro is recognised as one of the great walks of the world. The climb is intensely gratifying and those who undertake it will be amply rewarded by what they encounter: diverse and colourful scenery, stunning natural beauty, endemic flora, warm and friendly locals and a unique sense of isolation. This last impression is reinforced by the fact that only a little more than 150 years ago this vast volcano was part of geographers’ legend and remained unseen by Europeans, let alone summited. Ever since Hans Meyer’s first ascent in 1889, more and more people have tackled the mountain. If you’d like to join them, it’s essential to select the route that is most appropriate for you. Be aware of the scenic variety, remoteness and popularity of each route, but most importantly, be aware of the degree of difficulty. All of the ascents are quite difficult by virtue of the altitude, but some are harder than others. Don’t let a false sense of bravado or an overestimation of your abilities allow you to select a way up the mountain that is beyond your capabilities. Three days into a six day trek that climbs to almost 6000m is no time to discover that you’ve made an optimistic rather than realistic assessment of your pace, stamina or fitness. There are a number of ways to approach and climb Kilimanjaro. Since independent trekking was banned in 1991, all trekkers must now follow one of the established paths on the mountain in the company of a licensed guide and team of porters. As a result of its tremendous height and location on the equator, trekkers on Kilimanjaro’s slopes will go from the lush tropics, through temperate climes, alpine moorland and barren high alpine desert to permanently snow-capped summits, and back, in the course of only five or six days. Six official routes currently exist through the forest and across the heath, offering a range of opportunities for experiencing the mountain. These generally climb to 3500-4000m, where they usually merge with the South Circuit Path before linking to one of three final summit ascent routes. The ascent of Kilimanjaro is a gruelling, classic trek with magnificent views, unmatched in Africa. The real magic of the mountain is its stunning beauty and fascinating natural history. Whichever route you opt for, to make the most of it, walk slowly with your eyes open and you’ll come home with something far more important and valuable than a summit certificate. Option 1 The most common ascent is via the Marangu Route. This relatively easy, five-day trip ascends Kilimanjaro from the southeast. Often unfairly referred to as the ‘Coca Cola’ route because of its popularity and mass appeal, it is nonetheless an attractive outing on the mountain. The lower sections provide fine forest walking as you negotiate the dense cloud forest amidst orchids and clusters of Impatiens kilimanjari, an endemic tropical bizzy lizzy that is unique to the mountain. Sweet smelling heather and grass tussocks hide Kniphofia thomsonii, more commonly known as red hot pokers, throughout the heath/moorland section before this gives way to the desolate, barren lunar landscape of the Saddle, which leads eventually to the foot of Kibo, from where the final summit bid is undertaken via the Normal/Marangu Route. You descend by retracing your footsteps. This is the only route on which all overnight stops are made in purpose-built huts. Since this is the shortest and cheapest route on the mountain, it is frequently very busy and there is a risk that the facilities along the route can become stretched. Option 2 The second most popular ascent route is the Machame Route. This longer, six-day climb was christened the ‘Whisky Route’ since it is harder and its views more potent and intoxicating than those on the Marangu Route. It climbs Kilimanjaro from the southwest and enjoys some of the finest forest, heath and moorland scenery on the mountain. It ascends through lush jungle full of cedar, camphor, juniper and olive trees, festooned with lianas and mottled with grey-green lichen which flourishes in the humidity. Traversing the sparse Shira Plateau, all that remains of the third volcano that comprises Kilimanjaro’s vast bulk, the path teeters around Mount Kibo, beneath the giant glaciers clinging precariously to its sides. The final push to Uhuru Peak is via either the tricky Western Breach, an enormous gash in the uniform crater rim caused by a giant landslip, or more usually, via the Barafu Route, a steep scree scramble akin to the Normal/Marangu Route. The stipulated descent Route is along the short Mweka Route, which drops swiftly off the mountain. Increasingly popular and the beneficiary of extensive route upgrading in recent years, this path is no longer the wilderness experience it once was. Regardless, it still constitutes an exceptional, fully rounded expedition. Option 3 Of the more unusual ascent routes, the Rongai Route is the easiest. This six-day climb is an excellent alternative to the Marangu Route for those who don’t feel capable of undertaking one of the more strenuous climbs. This is the only route that approaches the summit from the northeast. The path coils across the lower slopes through a stand of trees that’s home to a troop of colobus monkeys who can frequently be heard calling out from high amidst the trees. Having lazily meandered across the heath, the path detours to the foot of Mawenzi, allowing you to more fully explore this extraordinary, vertiginous mass of shattered, weathered rock than on any other route. Having crossed the bleak Saddle, it makes the final summit bid via the Normal/Marangu Route. Descent from the top is then along the Marangu Route. Less heavily used and exceptionally scenic, the Rongai Route is a very fine climb on Kilimanjaro. Option 4 The Umbwe Route is the most direct, strenuous ascent route. Climbing stiffly through the thick forest on the southern slopes of the mountain, it rapidly gains height and affords little time to become accustomed to the rarefied atmosphere. The summit bid is often made via the Western Breach, but is sometimes conducted via the Barafu Route. Regardless, descent is along the Mweka Route. For those who are fit and fully acclimatised, this is probably the most dramatic way to climb Kilimanjaro and experience many of its finest views. It shouldn’t be underestimated though since it poses a very real challenge. The Western Breach itself is a classic scramble route involving the use of hands for balance and support. In less than perfect conditions it has epic potential. There is little margin for error on this sensational skywalk and no option to switch off and drift up the slope in a trance since a fall at this point could be very serious indeed. Options 5 & 6 Both the Shira and Lemosho Routes approach the mountain from the west. They are variations on the same trail and merge above the forest on the Shira Plateau. The more enjoyable Lemosho Route is fractionally longer and allows you to ascend to the plateau on foot, whereas the Shira Route begins much higher on the mountain and accesses the plateau by 4WD vehicle. Both paths then either climb to the summit via the Western Breach or traverse the mountain beneath the Southern Icefields to ascend via the Barafu Route. Descent is once more along the Mweka Route. The Lemosho Route is longer than any other route on the mountain, and whilst being more expensive, offers the best opportunity to acclimatise properly ahead of the summit bid. The isolation and space enjoyed as a result of the remoteness of both trailheads means that these are very good ways of escaping the crowds, at least on the early stages of the climb. Taking Care of Yourself The majority of individuals who set off to tackle Kilimanjaro complete their trip without any undue mishap. With a bit of common sense and care, the mountain shouldn’t pose a threat and the worst that might happen is that you suffer from blisters. However, Kilimanjaro must not be underestimated and its very real dangers should be taken seriously. Getting to the top of Kilimanjaro demands mental preparation as well as physical fitness. In advance of departure, the most efficient way to get fit is to trek up and down hills. Jogging helps to build stamina and endurance, although there is little you can do to aid acclimatisation, short of spending time at altitude. By walking frequently at least your body is becoming used to the rhythm and rigours of life on the path. Follow these basic rules to maximise your chances of success: Go slowly. This improves your chance of acclimatisation. If at all possible, try to build in an extra day to your schedule. Remain hydrated. Drink water regularly and continuously. Although mountain water is generally OK to drink it is still best to boil or treat all drinking water before you consume it. Maintain a good standard of personal hygiene. Try to clean hands before you eat to reduce risk of becoming or ill or suffering from gastro-intestinal problems. Wet Wipes are ideal for this purpose. Carry a first aid kit. Basic supplies such as antiseptic cream, plasters, support bandages, Aspirin, Imodium, lip balm, sun cream and any prescription medicines that you usually take in your home country should be carried. Stick to approved paths. Try to follow clearly marked routes. Do not take short cuts. At higher elevations, do not venture on to the glaciers. Keep an eye on all members of your group and watch out for anyone flagging or showing signs of distress. One of the main fears that people have when climbing Kilimanjaro is that they will succumb to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). This is a very serious condition, which can affect anyone. Most individuals have the ability to adapt to altitude, if they expose themselves to it sufficiently slowly. However, acclimatisation takes different lengths of time for each individual. Neither youthfulness nor physical fitness are guarantees that you will not be affected. As you gain altitude the air gets thinner, the pressure drops and there is less oxygen available in the atmosphere. Consequently your heart and lungs have to work harder to oxygenate your body. As the amount of oxygen in the lungs decreases, the blood becomes less and less efficient at acquiring and transporting oxygen. Early signs that you are suffering from AMS include extreme fatigue, a persistent headache, dizziness, a loss of appetite and disturbed sleep caused by irregular breathing. If any of these symptoms become apparent, you should pause until they have passed. As long as the symptoms remain mild you can continue to ascend slowly. If they persist, consider descending to a lower elevation at once. If the symptoms worsen, the victim runs the risk of developing High Altitude Cerebral Oedema or High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema, both severe, potentially fatal versions of AMS. The treatment for these conditions is to descend immediately to a lower altitude. As you lose height, the symptoms should abate then disappear. The golden rules for avoiding AMS are as follows. Don’t try to make the ascent within 24 hours of flying. Ascend slowly. If you start to feel the onset of symptoms of AMS go no higher. If the symptoms persist, descend at once. Remember, it is alright to get AMS in its mild form, it is not alright to die from it. Taking Care of the Mountain After the initial trickle of climbers to Kilimanjaro’s slopes, the number of people attempting to reach the Roof of Africa has grown and now stands at over 20,000 per year. Such a statistic may horrify you. The image of crowds of trekkers and their porters traipsing across the slopes and the thought of squalid, cramped campsites and of broad, eroded trails strewn with litter are indeed horrific. Thankfully, the reality is very different. However, every trekker on Kilimanjaro will have an impact on the mountain and the region just by being there. On its own this may be minimal but with so many visiting the mountain every year, the effect on the environment and people living there is greatly magnified. Every visitor to these slopes has the potential to make a positive impact and a responsibility to ensure that the nightmarish vision outlined above does not come about. To minimise your impact, follow these simple rules: Remove all litter Don’t pollute water resources Don’t use bottled water Don’t light fires, even for cooking. Stay on the trail Do not pick or disturb any of the flora or fauna found on the mountain A lot of people who climb Kilimanjaro discover that the interaction that they enjoy with their guides and porters is one of the highlights of the trip. By rising above cultural prejudices and engaging with your hosts and companions on the climb, you will become more sensitive to their ways of living and beliefs. To not do so will be to reduce the value of your trip and contribute to the cultural erosion of the country. Be patient, friendly and open when meeting people and the courtesy will usually be returned. Try to learn a few words of Swahili; the effort will be appreciated by your porters and guides, even if only because your attempts to produce their language are so risible. Hang on to your sense of humour and maintain a sense of perspective in order for your time on the mountain to be enriched. Kilimanjaro: The Seventh Summit Mount Kilimanjaro is one of the most impressive peaks in the world. A volcanic giant alone on the savannah plains, snow-capped and remote, it is as evocative of the continent as the elephant: huge, stately and beautiful. For mountain climbers, trekkers and adventurers it’s a perennial favourite, yet in my view it is often underestimated as a challenge. Knowledge is important and like any mountaineering challenge, Kilimanjaro should not be approached with complacency. My ‘team briefing’ never really ends until we are back off the mountain safe and sound. You can never learn too much. I have heard people who return from its high point talk of the “the hardest thing I’ve ever done”. Then there are those who summit virtually on their hands and knees, and wear the hardship like a badge of honour, perpetuating the idea that you’ve only ever climbed Kilimanjaro if you’ve gone beyond the limits of physical endurance, and perhaps sanity. To any mountaineer or guide, there is only one way to climb a mountain, and that is the safe way and consequently the enjoyable way. A climb of Kilimanjaro will take you, in a period of around seven days and 30 miles, from equatorial forest to glaciated summit, from one extreme of weather to the other, to the approximate altitude of Camp 1 on Mount Everest. Yet to achieve the same height on Everest would take three weeks. A thousand metres higher than Mont Blanc, Kilimanjaro is not to be sniffed at; and yet people ascend with practically no knowledge of altitude-related illnesses, hardly aware even of the necessity to drink more water. Kilimanjaro is not a technical peak by the ordinary routes, but it does have objective dangers worthy of serious consideration. I have been fortunate to climb Kilimanjaro many times. I never find it boring. Running my own operation means I employ staff who are all my friends now so that makes it all the more fun. I love listening to the life stories of clients too. I think it is vital in my position not just to take people to the top but also to teach people about mountains. For lots of people, Kilimanjaro is their Everest, and I respect that ambition hugely. Having summitted the mountain safely and enjoyably some people’s thoughts turn to the other Seven Summits (the highest peaks on each of the seven continents). Kilimanjaro cold be said to be the first rung on a ladder that leads to Everest itself. I completed a nonstop Seven Summits expedition in the Millennium Year so I speak from experience in saying that Kilimanjaro is the easiest. Everest outranks them all simply in terms of altitude, even though the normal route is not especially technical. Everest also has some serious objective dangers, like the Icefall, and weather that can certainly add spice to the day. North America’s Denali is a serious expedition in a remote, cold and unforgiving corner of Alaska. A mistake on this mountain may cost dearly. I was once tent-bound there by a storm which lasted a week. Aconcagua in South America is not especially technical by the normal route but it has the infamous Vente Blanco, the white wind, which is desperate to get caught in. Plus of course it’s 7000 metres high and the effects of altitude are cumulatively more deleterious after about 6500 metres. It’s also a very physical expedition with carries to camps to be made and a longer period spent acclimatising. Elbrus in Russia is probably the obvious follow-on from Kilimanjaro, lower at just over 18,000 feet but significantly colder. It involves a non-technical ascent in crampons. The summit plateau can be a nightmare to navigate in poor visibility. The area is beautiful though, deep in the Caucasus, redolent of the Alps fifty years ago. The little-known and remote Carstenz Pyramid in Indonesia is the only one that requires rock-climbing, 4000 feet of it rising dramatically out of impenetrable jungle. Difficult to reach and requiring rock skills to scale it, most people opt for the much easier Kosciusko in Australia, which can actually be ascended in a car by the more sedentary adventurer. That leaves Mount Vinson in Antarctica which is a stunning and utterly memorable expedition for its location, if you have about $26,000 to spare. It’s not technically too difficult, but woe betide you if you leave your gloves behind.

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