There’s much more to enjoy on a visit to Mount Kenya than the dash to the summit. Take time to smell the flowers, says Tom Parkinson.
 The Kikuyu tribe still see their native mountain as a divine seat. Whether or not the god N’gai is in residence, this mighty former volcano is an imposing slab of geology in anybody’s language. Kilimanjaro may beat it on height, but for many discerning trekkers the 5199m runner-up is the East African peak of choice, offering a far more varied selection of scenery and terrain than its Tanzanian neighbour. Above all, the sheer diversity of the vegetation is so great that the entire area has been declared a Unesco International Biosphere Reserve, paradise for green-minded walkers who want a bit more than just another summit ticked off the list.
Unlike the rounded, relatively easy Kili ascent, Mount Kenya’s two highest peaks can only be reached by experienced technical climbers, so most hikers make for Point Lenana at 4985m. The views are spectacular, but the real treat is the trek itself, which can easily fill a week or more if you take the time to explore everything the mountain has to offer. There are numerous possible routes; my personal recommendation would be to combine the Sirimon ascent with the Chogoria descent, a stunning round trip which takes you through the five distinct zones of the Reserve.
The rainforest
As you leave the last few farms and villages behind, around 1900m, the real rainforest begins. While it is increasingly affected by illegal logging for charcoal and other uses (see box), large swathes of forest still remain genuinely untouched, and the plant life is prolific. Among the abundant species found here are giant camphor trees, slow-growing hardwood that is now protected due to over-use in the souvenir industry. You’ll also see all kinds of vines, ferns, orchids and other epiphytes. On the drier northern and western slopes, conifers are the predominant trees. Look out for the local wildlife in this area – there are plenty of buffalo around, and unlike national park animals they’re not really used to people!
The bamboo forest
On the southern and western slopes, as altitude increases, the forest gradually merges into a belt of dense bamboo. With the muddy trails walled in by the thick shoots and blessed with ample rainfall, hiking can be tough going in either direction here.
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As well as buffalo, this zone is popular with Mount Kenya’s modest elephant population, so again, some care is required – you’d be amazed how quietly these giant beasts can ‘sneak up’ on you in the brush.
The heath
At around 3000m, the point at which physical performance may start to be affected by altitude, the wet bamboo strip eventually gives way to more open woodland. The predominant species here are gnarled hagena and hypericum trees, accompanied by an undergrowth of flowering shrubs and herbs. As the woods in turn fade out into tall grasses you’ll encounter a belt of bristly giant heather, which forms weird-looking, tightly-packed clumps of up to 4m high.
The moorland
Alpine moorland forms the next zone, providing some unexpected explosions of colour from the multitude of small flowering plants nestled among the blanket of tussock grasses. The wide open expanses afford your first real views of the peaks, and also support some of the strangest and most exotic plant life on the mountain. Look out for the amazing senecio brassica or groundsel tree, with its enormous cabbage-like flowers, and two kinds of bizarre giant lobelia, six-foot monster plants resembling something between an oversized cactus and a mutant pineapple. Large numbers of perky rock hyraxes call this area home, and often hang around the mountain huts hoping for food from visitors – try not to succumb to their cute charms… The moorland zone extends from 3500m right up to the snow line.
Above the snow line
From around 4600m onwards, depending on the season, the only plants you’ll find are mosses and lichens. While keen botanists may miss the more varied vegetation, this is arguably the most exciting section of the hike, as you’re entering the domain of no fewer than 12 active glaciers, which are still shaping the sharp features of the peaks. If that in itself doesn’t faze you, remember that all this ice is just 16km north of the Equator! The best way to appreciate the full scope of the landscape is to take the Summit Circuit Path, a challenging trail leading right the way round the most dramatic parts of the summit. Of course, if you do then want to make it to the top, sunrise at Point Lenana is a fantastic experience and can crown off a trek well done with a sweeping panorama of the mountain in all its great green glory.
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