Essential Africa: Egypt

Issue 33

Despite recent troubles, Egypt is still one of the world’s most sought-after holiday destinations. It’s so rich in wonders – fascinating temples and tombs, colourful coral reefs, the Nile and, of course, the mighty Pyramids – that choosing where to go can be quite a task. Cherine Badawi, author of the Footprint Guide to Egypt, shortlists the country’s most compelling attractions and puts together three itineraries to excite the interest of visitors with anything between a week and a month to explore. “There is no country which possesses so many wonders” said Herodotus of Egypt in 450BC. He was right. Egypt is the oldest tourist destination on the planet – and, arguably, the most impressive. For more than three millennia wanderers have ventured from afar to behold Egypt’s awe-inspiring antiquities, and they’re still coming. There is simply so much to see: the too-many-to-count tombs and temples of the lush Nile valley, the glut of unrivaled Islamic and Coptic architecture set amid lively urban centers, the isolated monasteries which thrive in the folds of the Red Sea mountains and, of course, the pyramids of Giza, which continue to amaze the most erudite of onlookers. A lifetime would barely suffice to absorb it all. But, for all their historic and majestic appeal, the antiquities currently account for less than half of Egypt’s tourist industry. Instead, the primary draw for many modern-day travellers is the stunning Red Sea coastline and its dramatic desert backdrop. Among the world’s most esteemed diving and snorkelling destinations, the temperate waters and diverse marine life are as intriguing as they are beautiful. Also of interest to more adventurous travellers is the distant desert interior with its weird rock formations and oases bubbling with hot springs and oracles. What’s more, the spice of contemporary Egypt makes it unique. With its bustling bright markets, shisha (hubble bubble pipe) infused-coffee shops, and its wonderfully warm and generous people, this country refuses to disappoint. Alexandria Egypt’s second city enjoys a distinct Mediterranean flavour that distinguishes it from Cairo. An emphatic waterfront community with a mythic history all its own, it has breezy seaside cafes with fantastic sea food, plus eerie catacombs, underwater remains and the Bibliotecha Alexandria, which opened in 2002, putting the city back on the global map. Siwa This enchanting desert oasis, a few score kilometres from the Libyan border, is a gem of a destination for the rugged traveller. Siwa has crumbling temples, golden rolling sand dunes that abruptly give way to sprawls of verdant date palms, bubbling hot and cold springs and a language, culture and people all its own. Visitors to Siwa can also visit the Oracle where Alexander the Great is reputed to have asked if he was indeed the son of Zeus. The Nile The Nile is the central vein of Egypt and a journey upon her mighty waters by felucca (traditional sailing vessel) or fancy cruiser, with stops at the astounding bankside tombs and temples between Aswan and Luxor, is a riveting meander through time. Organised cruises generally require three to five days. If time does not permit an extended trip, even an evening jaunt on a felucca deck is enchanting.  To subscribe or buy this edition, click here The White Desert Between two of the more accessible Western desert oases, Bahariyya and Farafra, lies the White Desert, a psychedelic wonderland of natural limestone sculptures that resemble ice cream cones, minarets and mushrooms. For the more adventurous, it’s possible to take a jeep or camel safari into the desert for one or more nights and sleep under the majestic sky. The Great Pyramid of Giza As the only one remaining of the world’s Seven Ancient Wonders, Giza is one of the oldest tourist attractions on earth. More ancient to Herodotus, chronicler of the Ancient Greeks, during his visit in 450BC than the time of Christ is to us today, these massive mausoleums still bedazzle onlookers. To approach them on a camel’s back from a desert lit by the rising sun – there’s really nothing quite like it. Cairo Cosmopolitan meets and melds with crude in Africa’s biggest city, where thousands of years of Pharaonic, Coptic and Islamic history underpin the crumbling dwellings and vibrant lives of modern Egyptians. An aimless wander through the city is like a walk through the ages. The Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo is an Egyptologist’s dream. In addition to the world-renowned Tutankhamun exhibition, it houses ancient papyruses covered in hieroglyphs, Pharaonic gold jewellery and busts of Nefertiti. Mount Sinai The halfway point of the Jews’ flight from Egypt to the Promised Land, this rugged pink peak is where Moses received the Ten Commandments. The stiff trek up takes about two and a half hours along a winding rocky trail which leads to the final 700 steps. The best time to climb is at night, a few hours before sunrise. When you reach the top, you will be rewarded with a stunning and inspirational view. Red Sea resorts If you want sun, sand and sea, Sharm el Sheikh and Dahab are the Sinai hotspots. Sharm is a more upscale resort with first class restaurants, bars, casinos and accommodation amid a stunning desert backdrop where rich diving opportunities abound all year round. Dahab, 50km away, is Sharm’s hippy cousin. Budget travellers will feel at home amid the simple seaside huts, delectable and cheap eateries and fantastic desert setting. Ras Mohammed National Park Egypt’s first national park is a terrestrial and marine wonderland. A small peninsula which juts out from the Sinai wedge’s most southern tip, it’s the point where the waters of the shallow Gulf of Suez converge with the deep waters of the Gulf of Aqaba. As a result, there is an extraordinary ecosystem encompassing virtually every Red Sea life form. The diving and snorkelling are beyond compare and the beaches are pristine and beautiful. Luxor With its thousands of ancient remains, many deem Luxor and its surrounding temple complexes to be the greatest open air museum in the world. Highlights include the impressive and beautifully preserved remnants of Karnak Temple, and Luxor Temple, which through history has served as a refuge for every great religion Egypt has ever known. Across the river on the Nile’s west bank the Valley of the Kings and Queens, dotted with tombs and daunting mortuary temples, tells of the Pharaoh’s journey to the next life. Aswan The gem of upper Egypt, Aswan is the springboard for visiting some of Egypt’s most prominent monuments, such as the delicate Philae Temples and the nearby temples of Abu Simbel. Aswan is also a fine access point to explore the architectural triumph of the High Dam, which created Lake Nasser, a huge expanse of water saturated with fat catfish and dotted with Nubian ruins. For some travellers the greatest draw will be the distinct and beautiful culture of the Nubians, where the flavour of Arabia foments with the spice of sub-Saharan Africa to form a warm, generous and vibrant meeting of worlds.

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