Day trip to Banjul

Issue 33

Most winter visitors to The Gambia make a beeline for the beaches – and there’s nothing wrong with that. But for a change of scene the country’s low-key capital, Banjul, is well worth a look. You’d never call it an impressive city, but it’s got plenty of character and it’s close enough to the coastal resorts to make a day trip a doddle. Emma Gregg has it all planned out. Step one – jump in a taxi Banjul is less than half an hour by road from the busy beach resorts of Bakau, Fajara, Kotu and Kololi. The fastest way to get there is to hire a tourist taxi for your exclusive use, but if you’d rather travel like a local, then flag down a Banjul minibus on one of the bush taxi routes. If there’s anything that could be described as a space inside, the fare-collector will be hanging out of the moving minibus yelling “Banjul! Banjul!”. Indicate by flapping your hand up and down and the driver will stop to pick you up. Jammed in with your fellow passengers you’ll be whisked into town for the equivalent of a few pence. Step two – Arch 22 This lumpish creamy-white monument is impossible to miss. Commissioned by President Jammeh to commemorate the military coup which brought him to power, it looms imperiously at the end of Independence Drive, and all the minibuses pass it on the way into town. The best thing about it is the view from the top. Take the time to ascend to the highest balconies of the arch and enjoy the unobstructed city panorama – it’s a great way to get a feel for Banjul as a living, breathing island city. What you’ll see is a jumble of government buildings, low-rise commercial blocks, family compounds shaded by palms and baobabs, and distant docks, all hemmed in by ocean, river and mangrove. Step three – delve into the past Gambians are proud of their history – a rich patchwork of centuries-old tribal tradition, colonial adventures (and misadventures) and latter-day republicanism – and you can catch a glimpse of this in the small and dusty, but detailed, National Museum. It’s on Independence Drive, right in the heart of the city. Look out for some intriguing marabout paraphernalia, used in sacred rituals, and a big display of musical instruments.  To subscribe or buy this edition, click here For a window onto the history of Banjul itself, take yourself on a walking tour. Just south of the commercial centre you’ll see, side by side, buildings which each represent a different era: houses made from kirinting (a type of wattle and daub), others made of timber, early colonial buildings with elegant balconies and colonnades, and recent additions made of breeze block, plaster and glass. It’s like an architectural history lesson in miniature. Step four – stop for tea Banjul has plenty of street vendors peddling tiny doughnuts, chunks of peanut brittle, and little polythene bags of sweet cordial made from ginger or hibiscus. Cafés and bars are surprisingly thin on the ground: look hard and you’ll find one of the few places near the market and the port which serve snacks and bottled sodas. But if you’re lucky enough to be visiting a local friend you may be offered a drink that’s more refreshing than a soda can ever be – attaya. The classic nomad’s brew, a glass of this hot, frothy, sweet tea has more kick than a triple espresso, and is perfect for powering you through the rest of the day. Step five – browse for bargains There’s nothing quite like the colour, noise, bustle and aroma of a West African market. Some can be intimidating to the uninitiated, but Banjul’s Albert Market is relaxed and accessible. As you pick your way around the maze of stalls you’ll pass masses of goods you’ll have no intention of buying (coils of rope? plastic kettles?) plus some you may find more tempting (beaded jewellery, printed cotton, drums and interesting curios from all over the region). Bargain hard, but good-naturedly, and you could come away with something special for an excellent price. For a chance to see craftspeople at work in peaceful surroundings, you could drop into St Joseph’s Adult Education and Skills Centre on ECOWAS Street. The clothes, knitwear and embroidery here are all produced by the centre’s talented young students, many of whom come from underprivileged backgrounds. They’re usually happy to show you around their workshops; the staff encourage this as it’s a good chance for them to practice their English. Step six – find an urban oasis Banjul may be low-key, as West African cities go, but it’s nearly always hot, and by the end of the afternoon you’ll be panting for a cool drink in the shade. Step into the garden of the city’s smartest hotel, the dignified and venerable Atlantic, and reward yourself with something refreshing as you settle down under a palm tree to listen to the relaxing sound of the ocean lapping on the beach beyond.

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