Easy Zambezi

Getting ready  for our Lower Zambezi canoe safari with our host, professional guide James Varden, encouraging us from the back. Our craft for the trip are Canadian-style 18-foot canoes. Our first job is to get used to the paddles and the different steering techniques

6.30am  Start of a full day on the river. We set off early to enjoy the calm of the sunrise

11.00am  This area is known for its population of placid old elephant bulls. We spot one and approach carefully…
…fortunately this beast is particularly relaxed. But we could never have gone so close without a professional guide

12.30pm  After a wonderful morning paddle, we settle down for lunch…

1.15pm  …followed by a well-earned snooze

2.30pm  Back on the water again

3.00pm  James knows where to have fun on the Zambezi! In the middle of the river the water is shallow and safe to play about in and relax

6.00pm  Most of the time we paddle close to the shore, largely to avoid hippos, which are the main danger on the river. Our expert river guides are careful and very vigilant

6.30pm  Sometimes, a hippo surfaces; there’s just time to take a picture of this one before it goes down again

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Early Start

6.45am Early start for our five-hour walk in the bush: after a safety briefing, we set off in single file with James, our guide, in the lead

7.00am We scan the ground for evidence of recent animal activity. There are hundreds of tracks and most of us are pretty confused as to what to look for, until James points out some lion spoor

8.30am A kudu skeleton! James does a little detective work to work out how it might have been ambushed and how old it was at the time

9.00am Big challenge: we decide to approach a herd of antelope by edging forward slowly, keeping downwind. James uses Zambezi tassel flower seeds to test the wind direction

9.30am After half an hour of stealthy progress we hide behind a tree, but the young male spots us. There’s just time to grab a shot before they’re gone

9.45am A quick lesson in the many fascinating uses of Africa’s giant baobab trees……elephants use baobabs as a source of minerals and moisture, and this one has suffered some pretty nasty recent damage……on the inside, it’s a place of bush worship: the baobab cathedral

10.00am Approaching an elephant is always exciting. There’s a buzz of apprehension in the group, but our guide gives us the confidence to move closer……being very careful to watch for the moment when the elephant’s look, attitude and stance make it clear that we’ve got close enough

11.00am Relaxed but always prepared, James leads us back across the Chitake riverbed to camp

12.30pm At Chitake Camp, it’s time for a siesta. James snoozes in the open air…
…but the rest of us aren’t quite as adventurous – we prefer our tents!

6.30pm We’re treated to a magical sunset, and everyone goes quiet to enjoy the moment. Even the bush seems to fall silent

8.30pm Time for dinner. Surrounded by darkness, we enjoy the mysterious night-time noises, and James, of course, regales us with stories 

Mana Pools Factfile

Mana Pools National Park
The park, a World Heritage Site, lies on the Lower Zambezi at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. It’s the only park in Zimbabwe where you’re allowed to walk unaccompanied (at your
own risk). Arguably the best way to experience the park is with an experienced walking safari guide.

Chitake hiking trails
Natureways Safaris(www.natureways.com) explores the area around Chitake Spring, a crucial water source in the southern part of Mana Pools National Park, where wildlife comes to drink. You’ll spend three nights at Chitake Camp, walking during the day. The maximum group size for the trip is six people, escorted by expert armed guides. The trips assume some knowledge of the African bush and therefore may not be suitable for first-time visitors. Other hiking routes take you to the Nyamatusi and Mana shoreline areas.

Mana Shoreline Canoe Safari
Natureways’ 3-day Mana Shoreline Canoe Safari, with one night at each of three mobile bush camps in Mana Pools, starts with a short introductory paddle, followed by two days canoeing down the Zambezi with fully licensed professional canoe and walking guides.

The emphasis is on the wilderness experience; you may see buffalo, waterbuck, elephant, hippo and birdlife. Moderate fitness required.

Costs
Explorer Trails (3-night expeditions in which you can take part in setting up camp) from Natureways cost US$550 per person including transfers from Kariba, meals, equipment and canoe guides (but not park fees or international flights). Their more luxurious Odyssey Trails cost US$250 per person per night including canoe and walking guides, meals, local drinks and activities, but excluding park fees, flights and transfers (one-way charters from Kariba to Mana Pools by 5-seater plane cost US$245).

Other operators
Natureways is one of the larger operators in the area; others include Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.co.za), who offer a 3-night Mana Canoe Trail, and Safari Par Excellence  (www.safpar.com), who run 3–6 night Lower Zambezi canoe safaris along the Zambian Shoreline.

Getting there
You can fly to Mana Pools from Kariba, Zimbabwe’s Lower Zambezi safari hub, which is an easy air-hop from Victoria Falls or a few hours’ drive from Lusaka in Zambia.

When to go
Explorer Canoe Safaris run all year round; Odyssey Safaris taking in the Mana shoreline and Camps Zambezi and Chitake run from 15 April to 15 November, when conditions are driest. May to July are the cooler months (around 22 °C at midday, 8 °C by night); this is a good time for birdwatching. August to November is hotter (around 35 °C at midday, 14 °C at night). The rains start in mid- to late November. Game viewing is best from July to December, with very high concentrations of wildlife along the Mana shoreline in September and October, the hottest months.

Essential kit
 - Well worn-in hiking boots or walking shoes
 - Lightweight bush-coloured clothing
 - Warm night clothes and socks during the cool months (May–July)
 - Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses)
 - Insect repellent (particularly important from December to March)
 - Good lightweight binoculars, 10x or less
 - Small hiking towel

Health
Consult your GP about anti-malarials and other precautions before travelling.

Security
Despite continuing unrest in some parts of Zimbabwe, much of the country remains trouble-free and is safe to visit. The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises travellers to stick to well-established tourist destinations, visiting with reputable tour operators rather than independently.