Zomba - what a wonderfully magical African sounding name. Zomba!

Just 64 kilometres north of Blantyre, on the M3 tarred road, Zomba is always spoken of with special affection by all who know Malawi. In fact, it is two attractions in one. To the west of the main road, Zomba Plateau towers 1,800 metres above the plains and at its foot lies as delightful a town as one can find in central Africa.

As a settlement of note, Zomba dates only from the late nineteenth century. John Buchanan, a missionary in the David Livingstone mould, decided that the Mulunguzi river, flowing off the mountain, would not only supply him with water but also power a small sugar mill. In addition to the undoubted physical attractions of the site, it was conveniently placed to monitor and eradicate the slave trade of those times. Yet Buchanan could not have guessed how quickly his "Eden in Africa" was to become the country's leading administrative settlement.

By 1891 Sir Harry Johnston, the first commissioner of what was then the British Central African Protectorate, had established his official home there and the settlement was declared the capital of the Protectorate. And so it remained, becoming the capital of Nyasaland and then Malawi until 1975, when Dr Hastings Banda transferred the title to Lilongwe. But old habits die hard and tradition is a strong force in Africa. The Parliament still meets in Zomba, resisting attempts to wean it to Lilongwe.

The town, which grew up in the shadow of the mountain, became known as the "most beautiful capital in the Commonwealth", just as the views from the mountain were described as the "most magnificent in the whole of the British Empire".

Today, Zomba town has lost none of its charm. There is none of the modern but alien high-rise which characterise Lilongwe City. This is not Old Town Lilongwe, a village masquerading as a town, nor is there the bustle and brashness of commercial Blantyre. No, Zomba is a sedate old lady of a town, well aware of her status.

The colonial legacy is very evident yet it sits comfortably with all that is truly African about Zomba town. The Gymkhana Club, the old Residency and Chobe Barracks are all well preserved and neatly kept. Polo is no longer played at the Club; the barracks now house the Malawi Rifles rather than the King's African Rifles, and the Residency is a resthouse. All the same, these evolutions are natural, not contrived. The Clock Tower, near the barracks, is not only the war memorial, it is a symbol of the continuity and sense of history, albeit short, which is a hallmark of Zomba.

While most of the old colonial buildings, including the State House, lie to the west of the main road, the town spreads extensively eastwards and it is here that there is an excellent market and, beyond that, the university.

The University of Malawi demonstrates again the evolution of Zomba which, in turn mirrors the development of the country. The original academic institution was Chancellor College but this is now the main campus of the national university. Much of Zomba town's attraction lies in the happy marriage of the old and the new, the Colonial and the African.

But this is not all that is on offer. To know and appreciate only the town is to miss what some would argue is Zomba's most brilliant jewel: the massive plateau. It has a unique environment and incomparable views, and is a delight for the angler, the birdwatcher, the botanist, the walker and the horseman.

Getting to the top of the plateau is still something of a challenge. In the past there was a single road to the top, alternately allowing traffic up or down each half-hour. Now there is a quite good up-road and another poorly surfaced track for the descent.

No matter what the difficulty, this is a trip not to be missed. This great slab of a massif is in two parts, dissected by the Domasi river. It is the southern section, nearest the town, that draws the traveller. The flanks of the mountain are steep, scarp-like, and the peaks rise to almost 2,100m. Across the plateau small streams run out from the centre, creating tumbling waterfalls and rapids in a rush to join the Mulunguzi.

Much of the plateau is forested: an important resource. There are great stands of cypress, Mexican pine and the magnificent Mulanje cedar. The forests are home to monkeys and baboons and, it is said, leopards and hyaenas, although I have never seen either. Butterflies, large and brilliant, flutter, hover and milk the nectar of the flowering plants. The variety of flora is fascinating. Jungle-like creepers hang from the trees as if waiting for Tarzan; wild flowers conceal the homes of oversize ants. There are ferns and thornbushes, orchids and colourful lichens. White-necked ravens approach with their customary curiosity and fearlessness, but the augur buzzard and long-crested eagle will only be seen by a sharp eye.

With such a wealth of wildlife, a walk along any one of the paths which criss-cross the plateau is a joy. The climate is comfortably cool even when the plains below are sweltering. Picnic spots by one of the waterfalls or lakes allow a pause to contemplate what must be one of Africa's most serene and peaceful environments.

In a car - 4x4 preferred, but not necessary - it is possible to drive on one of the two circular routes and take in the views for which Zomba is famous. The outer circular road passes both the Emperor's and the Queen's Views, points from which can be seen the vast Phalombe plains, peppered with inselbergs. On a clear day you can see Lake Chilwa and even as far as Central Africa's highest peak, the Mulanje Massif. Never was there a more appropriate case for the expression "a bird's-eye view".

Fly fishing for rainbow trout can be had from September to April in the Mulunguzi river or in one of the dammed lakes. Horseriding is possible from the stables of Brian Burgess who, remarkably, runs a dressage school from his home on the plateau. Colonel Burgess rarely leaves his plateau paradise, content with hosting his equestrian students or giving violin lessons.

To properly experience Zomba, town and mountain, needs a two or three day stay. Fortunately - a bonus to the natural attractions - Zomba has one of the best hotels in Malawi. The Ku Chawe Inn is on the top of the plateau, perched on its very edge. The hotel has been completely re-built over the last six years: an elegant and comfortable property with a strong and individual style. The main buildings are constructed in red brick, each brick handmade and polished by Malawi craftsmen. The architect had a passion for arches and the effect is one of spacious openness. A balcony overlooks a terraced garden and allows splendid views across the plains below.

Zomba has so much to offer that it is surely unthinkable that any visit to Malawi will not include it in the itinerary. There is one word of warning. If you visit once it will be impossible to avoid something of a love affair with the place which will demand that you return.

John Douglas is a director of the travel industry consultants, Geo Group & Associates. He is the author, with Kelly White, of "Malawi - The Guide" to be published by Stacey International.

ZOMBA FACTFILE

Accommodation: While there are basic hotels in Zomba, the best facility by a long way is Ku Chawe Inn, perched on the edge of the escarpment atop the plateau. The 42 en-suite rooms and deluxe suites are comfortable and well furnished. Rates are from US$131 (single) to US$263 (double suite) including breakfast. For backpackers there is a campsite near the hotel.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Six: Winter 1998/1999. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)