In the 1950s Mozambique was renowned for its unspoilt stretches of palm-lined sandy beaches, its distinctive Portuguese culture and cuisine, and its vibrant life. It attracted more visitors annually than all the other regional countries combined.

Armed resistance to colonial rule in the 1960s, the post-independence economic woes of the 1970s and the Frelimo-MNR confrontation of the 1980s devastated the country physically and financially.

Since the 1992 Peace Accord reconstruction has been phenomenal. Mozambique is on course not only to recapture its former glory and market, but to become the prime holiday destination in Africa.

Getting There....

There are direct flights from Paris, Lisbon and most regional African centres to Maputo (or Beira). The main offshore resorts can be reached by air from Johannesburg (mainly fly-in packages) or by road, ferry, hired boat or dhow from mainland centres.

The best time to visit is between April and October when the shores are cooled by the trade winds. October to March can be hot and windy.

Health....

Take a good medical aid kit, boil or purify drinking water and observe food hygiene in order to avoid cholera. It is advisable to have a meningitis jab, (possibly also for hepatitis A and typhoid) before arrival and to take a course of malarial prophylactics (Mefliam or Doxycycline are presently recommended), insect repellents and a mosquito net if camping. There are no shark nets so avoid murky waters and river mouths, particularly at

Maputo....

This bustling city, with its wide, tree-lined avenidas, intriguing architecture, surprising monuments, numerous cafes, vibrant markets and lively night-life, has a distinctly Afro-Portuguese atmosphere.

The Victorian-style railway station is an impressive building. The National Museum of Arts and the Natural History Museum building (contents excepted) are of interest, but for the Museum of the Revolution you'll need a guide if you cannot read Portuguese.

The poached-out elephant sanctuary and dirty beaches south of Matuto are not appealing. Just north of the city, on the mouth of the meandering Limpopo River, is Zongoene Lodge. Here fishing trips, quad bike adventures and forest walks can be taken.

Cahora Bassa....

Meaning "where the work ends", Cahora Bassa is the local name for the rapids which terminated Livingstone's plans to use the Zambezi as "God's highway" into Africa.

This hydro-electric dam is the world's fifth largest man-made lake. It is long, deep, surrounded by rugged hills and has heavily forested islands. There are camping sites and the fishing and water sports are excellent.

Niassa Reserve....

Keep an eye out for the opening of this, potentially one of Africa's most desirable wildlife sanctuaries. Isolated and neglected till now, the reserve is being developed for the selective low-volume market. Bordered by major rivers and criss-crossed by lesser streams, its savannah plains are punctuated by outcrops of volcanic rock. The area is home to a wide variety of wildlife including most of the large and small antelope, elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, wild dog and, possibly, black rhino.

Ibo Island....

Not easily accessed and very basic, Ibo is one of the 27 offshore islands that form the Querimba Archipelago. Though run-down, the town is strongly Islamic. It houses old mosques, cathedrals, colonial buildings, palaces and villas which have fallen into disrepair. There is an interesting star-shaped fort, supposedly haunted, and one vehicle - a tractor used for tourists and garbage collection!

At the old Portuguese fort of Sao Joao Batista exquisite silver filigree jewellery is hand-crafted from molten Maria Teresa dollars taken (secretly) from an old shipwreck. The town lacks good tourist facilities, food is not easy to find and the water is unhealthy.

Pemba....

Pemba bay has a beautiful isthmus, clean, wide, sandy, palm-lined beaches and coves protected by a coral reef excellent for snorkelling. In the town is an Iberian-tiled esplanade, an enjoyable open-air cafe, a hotel, restaurants, curio shops and the Diving Centre. On the road to Wembe Beach is the Makonde wood carving co-operative. The upmarket Nautilus Tourist Complex at Wembe has sea-facing, air-conditioned, thatched bungalows and camping facilities.

Ilha da Mozambique....

This small, crescent-shaped island is linked to the mainland by a causeway. Possibly northern Mozambique's most alluring destination, it was declared a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site in 1992. The island is full of intriguing history and living in a time-warp epitomised in the cluttered alleyways, crumbling fortress, Sacred Art Museum, mildewed 17th and 18th century mosques, churches and beautiful old colonial Portuguese buildings. The former governor's palace and cathedral, now a gem of a museum, traces the history of Ilha from Vasco da Gama to Samora Machel. There is an hotel and a couple of restaurants where prawns or fish and chips are a reasonably safe bet.

Inhambane....

This clean, sedate, Mediterranean-like town is worth a visit. An old (ivory and slave) trading port, it has a fascinating history.

There are an attractive 18th century cathedral, distinctive colonial buildings set in tree-lined avenues, a lively market and a seafront which is picturesque if not good for bathing. However, the Inhambane peninsula does boast several palm-lined beaches suitable for swimming.

Praia do Tofo's wide sands are edged with hotels, guest houses and restaurants. Tofinho attracts surfers from over the world and, consequently, has a very cosmopolitan atmosphere. Pongani is regarded as the best snorkelling spot in southern Mozambique.

On the north of the peninsula there is a good lodge and camp site at Barra Point. A wide range of water-related activities and microlite flights over the reefs, sand banks and mangroves are available. Ponta da Linga Linga is a nature reserve where locals tend fishing traps from dugout canoes.

Bazaruto Archipelago....

Gazetted as a National Park in 1971, the archipelago is more a marine reserve. Here lake crocodile, the last viable population of the e dugong, nesting sites for the rare loggerhead, and other turtles, samango monkeys and suni antelope can be seen.

Bazaruto, Benguerra and Magaruque have upmarket lodges which cater for the package-based, fly-in-to-sunbathe-and-snorkel tourist industry, largely from South Africa. As such they function almost in isolation to the rest of the country. Their beaches are white, palm-lined and surrounded by warm, clear-blue water and richly endowed reefs.

Inhaca Island....

The reefs and shipwrecks off Inhaca's 100km semi-tropical coastline are excellent for diving. Several world records for shark and game-fishing captures have been set offshore.

There are superb hiking trails, particularly through the mangrove islands to the lighthouse on the north coast. Bird watching, especially of flamingoes, is good. The huge rolling sand dunes on the east coast are ideal for sand-surfing. West coast beaches are more popular for sun bathing, but the currents between the narrows can be treacherous.

Published in Travel Africa Edition Seven: Spring 1999

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